Dobinsons MRR configuration options

[DPA200]

I am finally ready to upgrade my Tough Dog suspension to a more premium option. I've added a lot of weight over the past 5 years, and the Tough Dog has never failed, but it's overloaded and time for something new. I've officially drank the Dobinsons cool-aid and am very much sold on the MRR setup. I already did way to much research on the suspension choices. I have less than zero interest in Icon, I've heard all the complaints from BP-51 owners, and as nice as King's are, Dobinsons MRR feels like a more bang for my buck.

So Dobinsons MRR, I'm sold and ready to rock. I'm having a local shop do the install, and just have a few questions about all the options before they order the parts. Mainly just trying to figure out spring choice and what of the add-on options are work it and what are not.

Here is where my truck as it sits now, and below are details on weight of accessories:

Current Suspension
Front: Tough Dog 41mm, light 0-660lbs springs, OEM Toyota spacer 1/2"?
Rear: Tough Dog 45mm adjustable, Tourflex red tapered springs, Firestone airbags for towing a Turtleback Expedition

Front Weight Total: 362lbs
Front Bumper: TJM T13 Steel Outback Bull Bar = 260lbs
Winch: COMEUP SEAL Gen2 12.5rs = 62lbs
Lights: STEDI 8.5" TYPE-X SPORT = 15lbs
Compressor: ARB Dual on SDHQ mount = 25lbs'ish

Middle Weight Total: 584lbs
Sliders: BudBuilt DOM Step Sliders with full diamond plate = 154lbs
Roof Rack: ARB Base full rack = 150lbs
Tent: The Bush Company Black Series MAX = 220lbs
Awning: The Bush Company 270 XT = 61lbs
Rear Weight Total: 594lbs
Rear Bumper: RLC Dual Swingout = 200lbs
Jerry Cans: 3 Scepter = 120lbs full
Drawers: Dobinsons = 200lbs?
Fridge: National Luna NL 72 LEGACY = 74lbs
*** Rear weight varies. In full expo mode there is a 60lb dog in a crate, fridge is full of food and beer, and drawers have an undetermined amount of tools and stuff. Drawers are filled on the daily too, but fridge and dog really on on trips. Oh and 5 passengers, plus whatever the tongue weight is towing a Turtleback Expedition trailer. My working theory is the weight saved from taking the 3rd row seats out probably is similar to the filled drawers so those cancel each other out. Just a guess but that's what I came up with.
So here are the questions. 1st really just trying to figure out spring weight

Front spring options:

568's sound like the winner here with my heavy bullbar/winch up front. This is also what the shop doing the install suggested, as well as Ozark Overland Outfitters in a breif phone conversation.

Rear spring options:

Unsure on this between the 547's and the 549's. 2 shops I asked, each gave a different answer. Steel Bumper, 3 jerry cans, very filled drawers, dog, fridge, Turtleback trailer, heavy tent/awning. Just not sure if the 1100lb 549's are gonna be too much around town. I do have Firestone airbags for towing. Thoughts? I'm leaning towards the heavier option.

Spring color options:

I feel like black or red would look best on the gold 200, but the teal is so recognizable as Dobinsons and I kind of like how it's different than other brands.

Next post I want to go through the add-on parts

 

[Tex68w]

Personally I'd lean towards the 547's, I'd rather make up for a few extra possible pounds with the bags then to be over sprung and have a crappier ride. I will go black springs when I order but I can see the appeal for some to get the teal, red wouldn't even be considered in my eyes.

 

[DPA200]

Front Optional Parts:

I still have stock front UCA's, so those def need an upgrade. The billet arms are out of stock for an undetermined amount of time. Both shops I asked said the regular (UCA59-001K UPPER CONTROL ARM) are a winner. Supposedly they come pre-adjusted for this lift, meaning they aren't adjustable like the Billet or something like SPC.

I wasn't planning to do anything else besides the SC59-006 STRUT CAPS.

Not sure if anybody has thoughts on the (PS59-4032 - 1/4" STRUT SPACER (TO CORRECT LEAN) (LIFTS 1/2")?
I have no lean currently....but is this an issue I should be concerned with?


Rear Optional Parts:

My shop recommend the PR59-1421 - ADJUSTABLE REAR HD PANHARD ROD. I'm also planning to add new Firestone airbags because I think 1 of mine has a leak. Cheap enough to just replace and no extra labor while they are installing the springs anyways

Any winning argument or thoughts on the other optional parts here? They all add up $$$ so don't want to skimp, but also don't want unless I'll really benefit from any of this

WA59-547K - ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS
WA59-747K - ADJUSTABLE BILLET REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS
WA59-557K - ADJUSTABLE REAR UPPER CONTROL ARMS
HBS59-013FK - ADJUSTABLE HYDRAULIC BUMP STOPS

Tires:
I'm currently on 33's (285/70 R17) Ridge Grapplers and I can see even from my pics they look too small for this big truck. I'd held off on 34's only because I had the stock from UCA's. Well I figure even though my 33's are still in good shape since they are doing all this work and I have to pay for allignment, this may be the time to go up a size 285/75R17. I had KO2's previously and never had a flat in 3 years. Then switched to Ridge Grapplers which I know everybody loves, but had 3 flats in less than 2 years. The 1st one was like a week after i bought. Now Discount Tire has taken care of replacing each time, but left me less than impressed. Probably just a fluke, but still. So debating trying something new like the Recon Grapplers. Is there logic to my tire upgrade, or should I just keep my 33's till they actually wear out? Fronts are about 2.5 years old (20k miles), but rears only have 6 months (5k miles) on them because Discount had to replace a sidewall tear. More of a want than a need, I just like to try to combo what I can when I have my truck at a trusted shop. I did hear KO3 rumors that may be worth waiting for. I love how Nitto's look still though. Also not sure with the bigger lift if my existing 33's are gona look even smaller

 

[BadReligion]

View attachment 3278950

Front Optional Parts:
View attachment 3278948
I still have stock front UCA's, so those def need an upgrade. The billet arms are out of stock for an undetermined amount of time. Both shops I asked said the regular (UCA59-001K UPPER CONTROL ARM) are a winner. Supposedly they come pre-adjusted for this lift, meaning they aren't adjustable like the Billet or something like SPC.

I wasn't planning to do anything else besides the SC59-006 STRUT CAPS.

Not sure if anybody has thoughts on the (PS59-4032 - 1/4" STRUT SPACER (TO CORRECT LEAN) (LIFTS 1/2")?
I have no lean currently....but is this an issue I should be concerned with?


Rear Optional Parts:
View attachment 3278949

My shop recommend the PR59-1421 - ADJUSTABLE REAR HD PANHARD ROD. I'm also planning to add new Firestone airbags because I think 1 of mine has a leak. Cheap enough to just replace and no extra labor while they are installing the springs anyways

Any winning argument or thoughts on the other optional parts here? They all add up $$$ so don't want to skimp, but also don't want unless I'll really benefit from any of this

WA59-547K - ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS
WA59-747K - ADJUSTABLE BILLET REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS
WA59-557K - ADJUSTABLE REAR UPPER CONTROL ARMS
HBS59-013FK - ADJUSTABLE HYDRAULIC BUMP STOPS

Tires:
I'm currently on 33's (285/70 R17) Ridge Grapplers and I can see even from my pics they look too small for this big truck. I'd held off on 34's only because I had the stock from UCA's. Well I figure even though my 33's are still in good shape since they are doing all this work and I have to pay for allignment, this may be the time to go up a size 285/75R17. I had KO2's previously and never had a flat in 3 years. Then switched to Ridge Grapplers which I know everybody loves, but had 3 flats in less than 2 years. The 1st one was like a week after i bought. Now Discount Tire has taken care of replacing each time, but left me less than impressed. Probably just a fluke, but still. So debating trying something new like the Recon Grapplers. Is there logic to my tire upgrade, or should I just keep my 33's till they actually wear out? Fronts are about 2.5 years old (20k miles), but rears only have 6 months (5k miles) on them because Discount had to replace a sidewall tear. More of a want than a need, I just like to try to combo what I can when I have my truck at a trusted shop. I did hear KO3 rumors that may be worth waiting for. I love how Nitto's look still though. Also not sure with the bigger lift if my existing 33's are gona look even smaller

View attachment 3278971

Don't to a rear adjustable panhard. With all the recent threads on @eimkeith 's panhard relocation bracket, I'm surprised anyone is still considering an adjustable rod.

The rear UCAs/LCAs are overkill for a 2" lift. The main point of them is to be able to adjust the rear pinion angle if you have driveline vibes from a large lift, and/or push the rear axle further back. Not sure if the shops you are considering are giving you the best advice.

For tires, check out a 295/70/17. They are in between a 33 and 34, but pretty fat.

 

[Tex68w]

Skip the adjustable panhard and go with the EimKieth bracket, I wish it had been out before I bought the panhard bar or I would have skipped it.

 

[DPA200]

ok I skimmed through the 14 pages last night of the @eimkeith relocation thread:

Panhard drop bracket option?

forum.ih8mud.com

Looks awesome, sold on that. So just to make sure I didn't miss anything here is the just I got from that thread.

• The eimkeith relocation bracket is INSTEAD of the adjustable rear HD panhard rod? This raises the panhard rod up to get closer to level angle.
. No real reason to ALSO do the adjustable rear HD panhard rod?
• Deciding which hole to mount on the bracket is based off the lift, ideally trying to achieve a 0-2% angle when the truck is flat on the ground?
• Re-use the factory bolt and nut? Or just re-use the factory bolt with the new supplied nut?
• 110lbs torque?

Am I missing anything? I didnt see any other 200 product offerings on the website but the Panhard Correction Kit sounds like a solid winner

 

[BadReligion]

ok I skimmed through the 14 pages last night of the @eimkeith relocation thread:

Panhard drop bracket option?

forum.ih8mud.com

Looks awesome, sold on that. So just to make sure I didn't miss anything here is the just I got from that thread.

• The eimkeith relocation bracket is INSTEAD of the adjustable rear HD panhard rod? This raises the panhard rod up to get closer to level angle.
. No real reason to ALSO do the adjustable rear HD panhard rod?
• Deciding which hole to mount on the bracket is based off the lift, ideally trying to achieve a 0-2% angle when the truck is flat on the ground?
• Re-use the factory bolt and nut? Or just re-use the factory bolt with the new supplied nut?
• 110lbs torque?

Am I missing anything? I didnt see any other 200 product offerings on the website but the Panhard Correction Kit sounds like a solid winner

View attachment 3279450

That's pretty much it. Existing bolt uses captive nut and new nut is supplied so reuse existing bolt with new nut. For 2" lift, the middle hole is perfect (or lowest hole on new bracket). Install is easy, especially if you already have the rear coils out, which is necessary to access the rear of the bracket when welding.

 

[DPA200]

That's pretty much it. Existing bolt uses captive nut and new nut is supplied so reuse existing bolt with new nut. For 2" lift, the middle hole is perfect (or lowest hole on new bracket). Install is easy, especially if you already have the rear coils out, which is necessary to access the rear of the bracket when welding.

Thanks, so this guy for a 2" lift right? And with that on flat ground the bar sits level, or angles up somewhere around 2%?

 

[DPA200]

I had some back and forth today with Mike (ExitOffroad). He's always been super helpful. Looks like I was reading the front coil selection wrong on my 1st post. The 568 is for Diesel LC's only, the 544's are the heaviest option for gas V8's.

Front coils this is what I think I'll go with / C59-544:

Rear coils this is what I think I'll go with / C59-547: Should be better daily driver than the 549's, and my airbags can make up for the extra weight when towing like @Tex68w said

Front UCA's He confirmed the Billet option is not yet available, Guess is minimum of 2 months, but could be 4+ months. So I'll go with the standard Dobinsons Front Assembled UCA’s. I haven't heard any negative feedback on those yet. Nice we have other non SPC options these days:

That's as far as I got today, so narrowing things down. Oh, I did order the @eimkeith 's panhard relocation bracket, And I will skip the Dobinsons Rear Adjustable Panhard Rod

 

[Tex68w]

The billet aren't necessary, save your money.

 

[DPA200]

The billet aren't necessary, save your money.

Yeah I agree. Do you have the Dobinson UCA's?

 

[Tex68w]

Yeah I agree. Do you have the Dobinson UCA's?

I went with SPC's this time, i've had Total Chaos many times in the past, kinda noisy.

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

I'm also in the process of picking a suspension lift for a similar amount of weight so curious to hear about your experience after install. I won't be having a trailer or a roof top tent but the rest will be pretty similar.
Can one add the lean correction spacers just to provide 1/2" more lift? I feel like I want to get closer to 2.5-3" of lift and 34-35in tires.

 

[DPA200]

I was thinking as far as my real LCA goes, sticking with the stock arm (not yet bent) and just doing this configuration.

I already have Trail Tailor Rear Shock Guards installed:

Rear Shock Guards 200 Series

Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Made from 3/16" HSLA steel CNC cut and bent for accuracy Stop rock and road debris from pitting your shock piston rods. With a recessed design, it protects the shock bolt as well. This acts as a guard and a skid at the same time. Bolt up takes approximately 20...

trail-tailor.com

I held off buying the 200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids, but was thinking now is the time:

200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (4) 5/16" x 1" Type F self tapping bolts (1)...

trail-tailor.com

Part of the reason I held out so long was I've been waiting for the no drill BudBuilt version to be available. I still don't see on their website.
Anybody have any info on these? @JohnJB , @Markuson @CharlieS have any
info?




Then to toughen up the arms themselves I like the concept of the ee-offroading RLCA Braces / Skids

Toyota Lexus RLCA Braces Skids | E&E Off-Road

These increase the stiffness of the rear lower control arm and decrease the chance of the arms getting bent from impacts. Brackets 6061-T6 Aluminium Skids 304 Stainless Steel They come with metric stainless steel mounting hardware, can be installed in under an hour and the only tool required is...

www.ee-offroading.com

Or for $395 would I be better off going with the Dobinson Arms? Like would stock arms with the ee skid be tougher than the Dobinson arms alone?

Dobinsons Direct

Dobinsons Direct

www.dobinsonsdirect.com

 

[Tex68w]

Go with the braces from E-E over the aftermarket arms, better bushings and no noise with OEM. I still need to do shock and control arm guards from TT myself.

 

[DPA200]

Go with the braces from E-E over the aftermarket arms, better bushings and no noise with OEM. I still need to do shock and control arm guards from TT myself.

Yeah that was the option I was leaning towards. I like the idea of just armoring up the stock arms.

As far as the forward "Rear Lower Control Arm Skids"

200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (4) 5/16" x 1" Type F self tapping bolts (1)...

trail-tailor.com

You think I should go with the TT version....or try to hound BudBuilt if they ever made to production?

 

[Tex68w]

You think I should go with the TT version....or try to hound BudBuilt if they ever made to production?

Six of one.....

 

[DPA200]

Six of one.....

Yeah fair enough, they do the same thing at the end of the day. Thx

 

[CharlieS]

I was thinking as far as my real LCA goes, sticking with the stock arm (not yet bent) and just doing this configuration.

I already have Trail Tailor Rear Shock Guards installed:

Rear Shock Guards 200 Series

Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Made from 3/16" HSLA steel CNC cut and bent for accuracy Stop rock and road debris from pitting your shock piston rods. With a recessed design, it protects the shock bolt as well. This acts as a guard and a skid at the same time. Bolt up takes approximately 20...

trail-tailor.com

View attachment 3280652




I held off buying the 200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids, but was thinking now is the time:

200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (4) 5/16" x 1" Type F self tapping bolts (1)...

trail-tailor.com

View attachment 3280654
Part of the reason I held out so long was I've been waiting for the no drill BudBuilt version to be available. I still don't see on their website.
Anybody have any info on these? @JohnJB , @Markuson @CharlieS have any
info?




Then to toughen up the arms themselves I like the concept of the ee-offroading RLCA Braces / Skids

Toyota Lexus RLCA Braces Skids | E&E Off-Road

These increase the stiffness of the rear lower control arm and decrease the chance of the arms getting bent from impacts. Brackets 6061-T6 Aluminium Skids 304 Stainless Steel They come with metric stainless steel mounting hardware, can be installed in under an hour and the only tool required is...

www.ee-offroading.com

View attachment 3280655




Or for $395 would I be better off going with the Dobinson Arms? Like would stock arms with the ee skid be tougher than the Dobinson arms alone?

Dobinsons Direct

Dobinsons Direct

www.dobinsonsdirect.com

View attachment 3280656

I tried to wait for Bud, but he never released them, so when Jason (Trail Tailor) offered his skids again, I snapped a set up immediately. They're great, just like all of his stuff. My only wish is that they were stainless steel, because rust is a major issue in my area. Budbuilt typically offers a stainless version of protection (with a slight upcharge).

I also have Budbuit lower shock guards (Stainless) and the @turbo8 /E-E RLCA skid. They both work well and provide needed protection. Thanks to the RLCA skids I'm not bending stock RLCAs anymore.

The only thing to watch out for is that the RLCA skids collect silt and dirt, I think mine is from going through mud several feet deep in sections. One more thing to keep clean as maintenance.

But... I'd probably only add this stuff if you play in the rocks and ledges. It comes with the territory wheeling any of the more challenging trails in VT/NH. They got good exercise on talus/scree fields in Colorado too.

 

[Tex68w]

I haven't had mine as long as @CharlieS so I haven't dealt with any sediment collection in the RLCA skids but I did drill some drain holes in front of the braces in order to help mitigate the issue.