Yes This is what I continue to suggest to people. If they want to save money its a nice option the 7MGTE upgrade. Though, I think people really miss the low rpm response mantra of Gturbo. Its not all about peak power and high boost - its about doing it ALL. And in a diesel, because of how improved diesel efficiency is in the lower rpms (1500-2000 in the case of the 1HDT), this I have found to be very beneficial to improve (cleanly).
If you have one of these "power pins", they simply dump in the fuel with a sniff of boost with a very aggressive fuel curve. Almost any turbo on a diesel will spool early if you tip the fuel in hard - with coal out the exhaust until rpm rises up. Thats why I use the std pin (1HDFT pin is best because its the most emissions friendly pin) and leave ALL the longest off boost flat area, use a bench grinder with sharp edge to grind the profile at that point steeper and deeper, make it all smooth with emery then wet/dry and tension up the toothed wheel till it makes the aneroid diaphragm sit proud of the pump by ~ 5mm. Then rotate top off boost fuel cam to lowest fuel point and grind 2-3mm off the thread protruding from centre of aneroid diaphram to ensure it can sit nice and high guaranteeing minimum fuel off boost.
Thats how to tune for minimum smoke and maximum performance on a stock pump. But, you need a early spooling turbo (one that doesn't need high pre turbo EGTS/sub 16.5:1 AFr's to spool) to do that - especially on a manual where as torque builds the rpm is slow to follow (unlike auto where outside of TC lockup the slip will occur and rpm will rise helping clean up the exhaust). On Autos, especially the JDM that has TC lockup at ~ 60km/h in 4th, the torque at 1400rpm (with minimal smoke) is really nice to have. With std turbo (or with 7MGTE Hiflow), intyercooler and exhaust, you can almost get it going at 1400, but unfortunately not quite. Certainly you can get the "push in the back" at lockup at 1400rpm with aggressive fuelling, but its at the expense and insult to all the people following your truck when they have to breath your garbage.
I would suggest people find a local shop to do the basic comp cover machining and buy a new comp wheel for it. Theres no drawbacks for this mod and its a cheap mod and you still have an OEM turbo which you don't have any questions about quality on. I have 360 degree kits Im happy to sell that I don't use any more just haven't had the time to advertise. Complete rebuild kits with 360 degree upgrade.
For the budget minded I can even offer genuine turbine wheel matched to a 7MGTE comp wheel, balanced with 360 degree rebuild kit $448. All you need to do is disassemble old turbo, machine comp cover to match and put together there you go, done. very cheap, no balancing required!
it almost seems like it defeats the purpose to buy a Chinese turbo if you have to send it to a shop for a re and re.
$300-500 bucks for a Chinese turbo
$500-600 bucks for them to re-do it.
$800-$1100 later....
Best to rebuild the stock one (cheapest option)
Performance option would be to do a 7mgte hybrid.
Track down a used 7mgte turbo, get it rebuilt, throw in a 360 deg thrust washer, slap your 1hd-t exhaust housing on it (assuming its not cracked) and voila you have a turbo good for 20+ psi if I have read correctly. for half the cost of a G-turbo.
Gturbo would be the way to go if your willing to spend the money. They are fun.
. Its been balanced as it has similar balancing marks on both the compressor and turbine wheels. 
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