Do You Run Diff Armor? (2 Viewers)

DangerNoodle

I'm bored
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Oct 25, 2019
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Divide, Colorado
I'm wondering if I should run any sort of diff armor on my build. Now would be the time to add it, but I am kind of split between all the choices. I have FJ80 axles on 37's for a 40, and I'm planning on wheeling it pretty hard. If you guys do run armor, what kind do you run? I'm looking at the Ruff Stuff 3/8" bash plate or some of the Ballistic Fab armor. Should I run full face armor, or is the bash plate enough? Does the underside near the drain plug need to be really reinforced? Would you guys even bother? Also, will minitruck 8" armor fit the 8" front FJ80 housing?

ballistic_product_20-7-6-17_480x.jpg

R1772-full.jpg


Thanks,

-Noodle
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2005
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Good choice. Have a massive 15 bolt cover on my 14 bolt rear, but I ran without on the front Fj60 housing for years. Lots and lots of scrapes on the bottom, axle tubes, along with a slightly bashed in front....and then ordered that moto farkles bash plate from somewhere here on Mud. Waste of money, should have just ground down a Ruff Stuff 8" cover or gone with a halved sewer cap.

Do plan to grind down the edges of that bottom plate when you weld it on so it doesn't create a lip to catch on rocks or tree stumps. Good 20+ minutes with a grinder, or maybe even do it on the bench grinder before welding on....
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
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San Diego
Good choice. Have a massive 15 bolt cover on my 14 bolt rear, but I ran without on the front Fj60 housing for years. Lots and lots of scrapes on the bottom, axle tubes, along with a slightly bashed in front....and then ordered that moto farkles bash plate from somewhere here on Mud. Waste of money, should have just ground down a Ruff Stuff 8" cover or gone with a halved sewer cap.

Do plan to grind down the edges of that bottom plate when you weld it on so it doesn't create a lip to catch on rocks or tree stumps. Good 20+ minutes with a grinder, or maybe even do it on the bench grinder before welding on....
Thanks for the tip. Probably a good idea to use a die grinder to smooth out the weld bead anyways.

Funny enough that this is in the hard-core corner. I thought protecting your rig was essential for any off-road/expedition travel. Ha, guess I'm wrong.
 

DangerNoodle

I'm bored
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Oct 25, 2019
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684
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Divide, Colorado
Thanks for the tip. Probably a good idea to use a die grinder to smooth out the weld bead anyways.

Funny enough that this is in the hard-core corner. I thought protecting your rig was essential for any off-road/expedition travel. Ha, guess I'm wrong.
The funny thing is, on my other 40, I've never run armor, and even though have wheeled it pretty hard, haven't really had too many problems. I go slow and don't use the skinny pedal too much, so I don't hit stuff very hard if I do. This rig is probably going to change that.....
 
Joined
Jan 9, 2004
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I usually just take a strip of hardox about 1.25" wide , curve it to match and weld it to the diff housing where the ring gear is. You don't really need much. The only issue I've had are when that part of the housing gets bashed in by rocks and makes contact on the ring gear. Everywhere else there is lots of room for indents.The ring gear is what needs protection. Its a pain to have to pull the third member to beat it back out and reinforce. Also my truss runs from ball to ball on the front side of the diff so I just marry the strip of hardox to my truss.
 

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