Do y'all recommend a transmission fluid flush?

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So this would be the proper procedure for the home mechanic?

  1. Get transmission to proper temperature using either Techstream or by shorting the correct DLC3 pins and entering temperature detection mode.
  2. Slowly move transmission through all gears P>S>1>2>3>4>5>6>P
  3. Remove refill and overfill plugs.
  4. Slowly add desired amount of ATF to refill hole.
  5. Wait until overfill stops dripping.
  6. Re-install overfill and refill plugs.

Doesn't seem as difficult as I imagined it.
 
If I am looking at that diagram right, and you remove the "overflow" plug, unless the transmission is overfilled, nothing will come out. Looks like you have to drop the pan to remove any fluid. Correct?

Incorrect. There is a drain plug. That diagram is just fot the adjustment after the drain and refill...
 
The process I used is the same as the one for 100 and other cars with a transmission cooler (Tundra, etc). Remove the cooler lines, start the engine and allow the transmission to pump out a few quarts, then replace an equal amount through the fill hole. Repeat until all the fluid in the transmission has been exchanged. The 200 has a thermostat on the cooler lines with must be opened to allow fluid to flow. Once you are done, the fluid level is verified using the procedure described earlier in this thread.
 
The process I used is the same as the one for 100 and other cars with a transmission cooler (Tundra, etc). Remove the cooler lines, start the engine and allow the transmission to pump out a few quarts, then replace an equal amount through the fill hole. Repeat until all the fluid in the transmission has been exchanged. The 200 has a thermostat on the cooler lines with must be opened to allow fluid to flow. Once you are done, the fluid level is verified using the procedure described earlier in this thread.

After you pull the cooler line how do you prevent the transmission from just pumping itself dry?
 
After you pull the cooler line how do you prevent the transmission from just pumping itself dry?

You turn on the car, let it run for a few seconds, turn it off, then fill the transmission back up. Repeat the process until you have put 12-14 quarts through. Takes a while...
 
I wonder if I put in 14 quarts a bit at a time how much of the original ATF I'm actually replacing. Anyone a wiz with hydrodynamics that can do the math? :)

I wouldn't be surprised if it was only 60%.
 
I wonder if I put in 14 quarts a bit at a time how much of the original ATF I'm actually replacing. Anyone a wiz with hydrodynamics that can do the math? :)

I wouldn't be surprised if it was only 60%.

Not sure. When I did it, I compared the old fluid (on paper towel) then compared the end result fluid with new. The replacement and new looked exactly the same colorwise, so I imagine it got most of it (I last did it on my 03 4Runner, which had a dipstick-filling was also much easier as I did it straight through the dipstick tube instead of crawling underneath the car). The original was a dark crimson, the replacement and new fluid was a light red. Even a full fluid exchange with a machine is not going to get all of it.

Just make sure to drain the transmission pan first, fill with clean, then start the cooler line exchange. I know the torque converter holds a ton, but this seems to do a fairly good job exchanging old for new.
 
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The process I used is the same as the one for 100 and other cars with a transmission cooler (Tundra, etc). Remove the cooler lines, start the engine and allow the transmission to pump out a few quarts, then replace an equal amount through the fill hole. Repeat until all the fluid in the transmission has been exchanged. The 200 has a thermostat on the cooler lines with must be opened to allow fluid to flow. Once you are done, the fluid level is verified using the procedure described earlier in this thread.
That's what I was thinking of doing but my mechanic was afraid that since he couldn't measure the pan level if the pan level got too low it might damage something. Maybe he was just paranoid.
 
I'm not seeing any advantage to pulling the cooler line vs just using the overfill. Seems like the overfill has the advantage of being more convenient with the added benefits that you can keep the vehicle running the whole time and not worry about the ATF ever getting too low during the process.

I think this would be the process I would follow:
  1. Get transmission to proper temperature using either Techstream or by shorting the correct DLC3 pins and entering temperature detection mode.
  2. Slowly move transmission through all gears P>S>1>2>3>4>5>6>P.
  3. Stop vehicle.
  4. Remove refill and drain plugs and drain ATF.
  5. Reinstall drain plug and remove overfill plug.
  6. Fill ATF via refill hole until ATF starts pouring out overfill hole.
  7. Start vehicle and verify transmission is still at correct temperature.
  8. Continue adding ATF to refill hole until done.
  9. Wait until overfill stops dripping.
  10. Re-install overfill and refill plugs.
Anyone see any errors in my logic or steps listed above? I'll probably be attempting it this weekend.
 
I'm not seeing any advantage to pulling the cooler line vs just using the overfill. Seems like the overfill has the advantage of being more convenient with the added benefits that you can keep the vehicle running the whole time and not worry about the ATF ever getting too low during the process.

I think this would be the process I would follow:
  1. Get transmission to proper temperature using either Techstream or by shorting the correct DLC3 pins and entering temperature detection mode.
  2. Slowly move transmission through all gears P>S>1>2>3>4>5>6>P.
  3. Stop vehicle.
  4. Remove refill and drain plugs and drain ATF.
  5. Reinstall drain plug and remove overfill plug.
  6. Fill ATF via refill hole until ATF starts pouring out overfill hole.
  7. Start vehicle and verify transmission is still at correct temperature.
  8. Continue adding ATF to refill hole until done.
  9. Wait until overfill stops dripping.
  10. Re-install overfill and refill plugs.
Anyone see any errors in my logic or steps listed above? I'll probably be attempting it this weekend.

Are you just replacing what is in the pan once? Seems that using the cooler line allows you to get through all 14 quarts easily.

Otherwise you will have to do that process a bunch of times and you'd mostly be replacing the fresh fluid you just put in. Doing the cooler line gets the old fluid pushed out by using the fresh fluid that you just put in the pan without mixing as much.
 
I'm not seeing any advantage to pulling the cooler line vs just using the overfill. Seems like the overfill has the advantage of being more convenient with the added benefits that you can keep the vehicle running the whole time and not worry about the ATF ever getting too low during the process.

I think this would be the process I would follow:
  1. Get transmission to proper temperature using either Techstream or by shorting the correct DLC3 pins and entering temperature detection mode.
  2. Slowly move transmission through all gears P>S>1>2>3>4>5>6>P.
  3. Stop vehicle.
  4. Remove refill and drain plugs and drain ATF.
  5. Reinstall drain plug and remove overfill plug.
  6. Fill ATF via refill hole until ATF starts pouring out overfill hole.
  7. Start vehicle and verify transmission is still at correct temperature.
  8. Continue adding ATF to refill hole until done.
  9. Wait until overfill stops dripping.
  10. Re-install overfill and refill plugs.
Anyone see any errors in my logic or steps listed above? I'll probably be attempting it this weekend.

As stated above, it sounds like the process you have outlined would only exchange the fluid in the actual pan - which is about 1/4 of the total amount of fluid in the system.

I'm paying close attention to this because I plan to change all the fluids within the next week or two as part of the 100K Mile celebration.
 
Would there be any risk of damage if the transmission was accidentally ran dry while doing the exchange? For example if too much was drained via the cooling line at one time and the pan ran dry?
 
Would there be any risk of damage if the transmission was accidentally ran dry while doing the exchange? For example if too much was drained via the cooling line at one time and the pan ran dry?

Yes, but running out 1-3 quarts while stationary will be fine. I did roughly 2 quarts at a time. I had some gallon jugs with quart marks and just turned off the car every time we got to two quarts (about 14 seconds IIRC). I would then fill up an empty gallon jug with clean fluid to the same mark and fill up the transmission. When I was finished, the dipstick was exactly full at proper temp (I last did this on a 03 v8 4Runner, which still had a dipstick).

Too be honest, based on the cost of WS fluid (about $110-120), I'm going to let my dealer do it this time for $250. They have a fluid exchanger that makes the process quick and easy. I don't feel like crawling under the car 10 times to pump in fluid.
 
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Just checked with my dealer's service department to see what procedure they follow when they do the transmission fluid service. He told me it was a "drain and fill" which he said gets about 1/2 of the fluid out. It was $217.50 because it requires a master tech and scan tool to check the fluid level.

Based on the information in this thread it seems they are likely removing only 1/4 - 1/3 of the fluid at a time....guess I will do this myself via the cooler hose method. Put it on the list.....
 
I ended up having my dealer do a full fluid exchange for $266. I felt that was a good price.

I paid roughly the same with tax after a $40 off coupon. I figured with the cost of WS fluid, some clear hoses, and the time to get measuring buckets, etc., ready, that $260 was worth my time.

I made sure to talk to the tech to ensure they were hooking up a techstream and filling it properly.
 
Just checked with my dealer's service department to see what procedure they follow when they do the transmission fluid service. He told me it was a "drain and fill" which he said gets about 1/2 of the fluid out. It was $217.50 because it requires a master tech and scan tool to check the fluid level.

Based on the information in this thread it seems they are likely removing only 1/4 - 1/3 of the fluid at a time....guess I will do this myself via the cooler hose method. Put it on the list.....

A drain and fill will get a little less than a 1/3 of the fluid IIRC. I had 14 quarts exchanged on mine. I also had a dealer that only does drain and refills (my normal dealer). I ended up going to a different dealership (5 in my area). Check with a different dealer.
 
The fluid change instructions say to do just this - drain the pan and refill it. That's about 3 quarts out of 12 total, which seems hardly worth it. If you opened a beer and it was skunky, would you pour out 3oz of it and replace it with fresh beer, or would you pour out the entire thing and drink the fresh one? I thought so.

I ended up going to the dealer and they did a 12 quart full fluid exchange. They charged about $125 for the labor. I'm sure you can do it yourself with the transmission lines but my mechanic was afraid if he didn't get the fluid level right as he was doing the exchange he might cause excess transmission wear. Supposedly the dealer had a machine they hook up to do the full exchange which ensures an even fluid level. Paying for an hour of labor once every few years for this seemed worth it to me, but then I don't have a garage to work in.

Well not with beer, but I will say that one time I had two, 2 liters bottles of Coke, both open, both half empty, 1 of which was flat, and 1 was not, and I combined the two and it tasted great!
 
I just changed my transmission filter at 93k after doing a fluid exchange at 78k. It's worth mentioning that the instructions from Toyota are a bit confusing (at least to me) and I ended up doing it wrong the second time even after getting it right the first time.

The service manual page posted earlier in this thread would lead you to think that you just add fluid through the fill hole until it comes out the overflow. This is incorrect and will result in an underfill. Filling the pan is only the first step, after that you replace the overflow plug then add an additional amount of fluid which is specified based on the service you performed.

Another place for confusion (which will also result in an underfill) is in order to properly check the level of fluid, the fluid must be at the correct temp and the engine must be running. The reason is because when the engine is shut off, some fluid drains out of the system and back in to the pan. If you did like I did and got the fluid up to the correct temp, then turned off the engine before getting back under the car to remove the overflow plug, you will drain out too much fluid.

I attached the service manual pages with the complete instructions. Once I understood the procedure its relatively straight forward and works well, but its worth a careful read of the instructions before starting because there are a few places to get tripped up.
 

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