Do people change their cv boots?

[60 toy ota]

Sorry if this is a dumb question.

I'm addressing a leaking front axle seal at the differential as well as a torn outer cv boot on my brothers 470. I'm really familiar with the solid axle on the 60 and 80 series, only messed with half axles on my camry.

From what I've seen online it looks like people are just replacing their axle when the boot tears, that seems a little excessive to me and I was under the impression the boot was replaceable. Is it? If so, any reason not to replace it rather than get a whole new axle?
TIA
Drew

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Yep, can get a boot kit from Toyota for $55. I rebooted both of mine and two trail spares. Messy job but not hard to do and doesn’t take more than an hour. Check condition of outboard CV axle splines first - If they’re worn, then will need new outboard shaft and joint assembly (comes with new inner and outer boots).

 

[Tareq]

Yep, can get a boot kit from Toyota for $55. I rebooted both of mine and two trail spares. Messy job but not hard to do and doesn’t take more than an hour. Check condition of outboard CV axle splines first - If they’re worn, then will need new outboard shaft and joint assembly (comes with new inner and outer boots).

My boots are not torn, look good, but started leaking grease on both ends after the 2" lift, same for the previous lx. I wanna reboot but would you suggest better boots/clamps than OEM so it doesn't leak again with the lift?

Thank you,

 

[JunkCrzr89]

My boots are not torn, look good, but started leaking grease on both ends after the 2" lift, same for the previous lx. I wanna reboot but would you suggest better boots/clamps than OEM so it doesn't leak again with the lift?

Thank you,

Mileage? If relatively low miles and the boots aren’t torn, then no need to replace the boots yet. Instead, you can get McMaster Carr smooth worm-drive clamps to replace your existing clamps, which will stop the leakage. However, if you have a lot of miles on them, then I’d go ahead and reboot.

Below is a photo of the correct McMaster Carr replacement inner and outer clamps that you can try. Have worked for a lot of folks to stop leakage.

 

[Tareq]

Mileage? If relatively low miles and the boots aren’t torn, then no need to replace the boots yet. Instead, you can get McMaster Carr smooth worm-drive clamps to replace your existing clamps, which will stop the leakage. However, if you have a lot of miles on them, then I’d go ahead and reboot.

Below is a photo of the correct McMaster Carr replacement inner and outer clamps that you can try. Have worked for a lot of folks to stop leakage.
View attachment 2268573

Thank you very much!
2002, almost 70k miles.
Assuming boots are original.
You have OEM part number plz? If i am paying someone to do it, maybe worthwhile to reboot.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

I bought the tool you use to tighten the OEM clamps. When one of my re boots on my Tacoma leaked a little I just tightened it more and fixed it.
Amazon product ASIN B0002SREPY

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Thank you very much!
2002, almost 70k miles.
Assuming boots are original.
You have OEM part number plz? If i am paying someone to do it, maybe worthwhile to reboot.

That’s pretty low miles! I’d probably just replace the clamps with the McMaster Carr ones above and ride those out until the boots tore. Here’s the OEM boot kit part number tho: 04427-60120

 

[Tareq]

Inquiring into your JDM steps and mudflaps. I tried to PM you to no avail. Please PM me so we don't clutter up your thread. I love your truck by the way!

I bought the tool you use to tighten the OEM clamps. When one of my re boots on my Tacoma leaked a little I just tightened it more and fixed it.
Amazon product ASIN B0002SREPY

Good suggestion, thank you!

That’s pretty low miles! I’d probably just replace the clamps with the McMaster Carr ones above and ride those out until the boots tore. Here’s the OEM boot kit part number tho: 04427-60120

Thank you!
This part behind the front wheels looks like the rubber is cracking, replace it too while the car is on the hoist anyways?
There is another part that looks like it in the back suspension too, rubber cracking.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Good suggestion, thank you!




Thank you!
This part behind the front wheels looks like the rubber is cracking, replace it too while the car is on the hoist anyways?
There is another part that looks like it in the back suspension too, rubber cracking.

View attachment 2268643
View attachment 2268648

Those are your swaybar (stabilizer bar) end links. No need to buy new end links - you can buy new OEM replacement bushings for those on the cheap from @cruiseroutfit .

If you're going to reboot your CV axles, you should also replace the axle seals at the front differential (because they're easy to do once axle is out of truck) and also consider repacking/replacing wheel bearings and replacing knuckle seals (because you'll already be in there), depending on when wheel bearings were last repacked/replaced (30k mile service interval). However, as I noted above, I see no reason for you to reboot your CV axles right now, unless you just want to do it for peace of mind. You can replace the clamps to stop the leakage without ever pulling CV axles out of the truck. With only 70k miles on those boots, they should last another 30k miles or more before tearing.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Yes, they are very common needed maintenance or preventive maintenance (particularly during front diff or suspension work) project on 100's and we are starting to see more and more on 200's as well. They simply age and get brittle, it's not at all uncommon to see cracked ones even on daily driven stock height 100's with higher miles nor is it uncommon to need to do them more frequently on a 100/470 with a suspension lift and moderate offroad use. I'm a big fan of re-booting the OEM Toyota CV's versus rolling the dice with the common aftermarket solutions. An example, I had a blown boot but quiet OEM CV on my 100 that got much worse in a matter of days leading up to a big trip I was leaving on (I think a trip down to Baja?), we were out of the OEM complete CV's so I took a quick gamble on a NAPA unit. We installed it and it was clicking right off the bat and getting worse in just a matter of days. The day before we departed I rebuild the stock CV with the boot kit and provided grease, re-installed and didn't have a single noise. Same CV's have 225k now and are still rolling around with the new owner.

Part# FACV60120 @ Cruiser Outfitters.

We offer the boot kits and all the bearings, seals and sway bar parts you might consider doing while you're in there and can quickly/efficiently get you a care package sent out with all the needed parts

 

[Tareq]

Those are your swaybar (stabilizer bar) end links. No need to buy new end links - you can buy new OEM replacement bushings for those on the cheap from @cruiseroutfit .

If you're going to reboot your CV axles, you should also replace the axle seals at the front differential (because they're easy to do once axle is out of truck) and also consider repacking/replacing wheel bearings and replacing knuckle seals (because you'll already be in there), depending on when wheel bearings were last repacked/replaced (30k mile service interval). However, as I noted above, I see no reason for you to reboot your CV axles right now, unless you just want to do it for peace of mind. You can replace the clamps to stop the leakage without ever pulling CV axles out of the truck. With only 70k miles on those boots, they should last another 30k miles or more before tearing.

Very helpful, thank you!
I will have the mechanic consider topping up the grease and tighten/replace the clamps before considering rebooting.

 

[Tareq]

Yes, they are very common needed maintenance or preventive maintenance (particularly during front diff or suspension work) project on 100's and we are starting to see more and more on 200's as well. They simply age and get brittle, it's not at all uncommon to see cracked ones even on daily driven stock height 100's with higher miles nor is it uncommon to need to do them more frequently on a 100/470 with a suspension lift and moderate offroad use. I'm a big fan of re-booting the OEM Toyota CV's versus rolling the dice with the common aftermarket solutions. An example, I had a blown boot but quiet OEM CV on my 100 that got much worse in a matter of days leading up to a big trip I was leaving on (I think a trip down to Baja?), we were out of the OEM complete CV's so I took a quick gamble on a NAPA unit. We installed it and it was clicking right off the bat and getting worse in just a matter of days. The day before we departed I rebuild the stock CV with the boot kit and provided grease, re-installed and didn't have a single noise. Same CV's have 225k now and are still rolling around with the new owner.

View attachment 2268677
Part# FACV60120 @ Cruiser Outfitters.

We offer the boot kits and all the bearings, seals and sway bar parts you might consider doing while you're in there and can quickly/efficiently get you a care package sent out with all the needed parts

Thank you!
Browsing your website now

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I'm a big fan of re-booting the OEM Toyota CV's versus rolling the dice with the common aftermarket solutions.

x2. OEM is the key to a happy Cruiser and happy life.