DIY windshield replacement? (6 Viewers)

[MissouriLC]

Hello, all: I posted a little over a year ago about the my difficulties in finding a competent windshield replacement (Windshield replacement... a rant. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/windshield-replacement-a-rant.1251542/). Long story short, I have still not gotten the windshield replaced for lack of finding someone willing to do it.

I am wondering how much of this job is a DIY? Here is what I am thinking, and I'm wondering if anyone else has done something similar and can share any experience:

• DIY trim removal - wipers/cowl panel, A-pillar mouldings, upper gasket at roof (this seems straightforward and what @2001LC says he does).
• DIY glass removal - cut the urethane sealant myself, remove the glass, and clean everything up (is this in the realm of DIY? I have no idea!)
• DIY inspection and repair, if necessary - I am not anticipating finding any issues, but this will give the opportunity to do any sheet metal repair if necessary.
• Professional glass install - get a mobile installer to install the glass only.
• DIY trim replacement.

Anybody done this? I am nuts?

Another question. Since the A-pillar moulding rivets seem to be such an issue, has anyone installed nutserts or riv-nuts in the rivet holes for small (#4 or #6) sheet metal screws, and used the sheet metal screws to secure the mouldings? I'm sure you would have to use a thread sealant--RTV or something--but it would obviate having to drill out and reinstall rivets on a subsequent replacement. Is that a good idea, or a terrible idea?

Thanks!
Tim

 

[JunkCrzr89]

DIY everything except windshield install

 

[excessive]

i dont think that there's anything overly technical or complicated , the trouble is in handling the new windshield. as long as you had at least 1 helper, and the proper suction cups to install - I think it is totally possible to DIY. Also, you can select a very high quality urethane.

 

[Formerjeeper]

I just made 4 trips to a glass installer that was recommended by the dealer to get the job done right. Your approach is what I would do if I had to do it over again. Sounds like this is pretty much what @2001LC describes in a couple of threads.

There is also a thread on here about someone who did the nutsert approach with good details if I remember correctly. Search should find it but PM me if you can't find it, I think I have it bookmarked somewhere. Also what I would do if I had it to do over.

 

[awesomeissquid]

As an alternative to the rivets there is another thread about someone that converted it to the Tacoma style molding (link below). Not saying I recommend that, just something to consider.

Rust Windshield Fix Rivet Delete Tacoma Molding - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rust-windshield-fix-rivet-delete-tacoma-molding.1259091/


Edit: Regardless, whenever I end up getting my glass replaced I will be performing as much of the removal as I can since I have trust issues.

 

[Moridinbg]

I did it a couple of months back. It was not a replacement, but I removed the current windshield, repaired some nascent rust spots and re-applied the sealannt properly to stop a leak on the driver side pillar. Nothing overly complicated.
The FSM asks for "stoppers" - 56115-60020. I ignored them, which in hindsight was a mistake. You can do without them, but they are used to properly space the windshield from the roof and you should be prepared for that. I eyeballed it and now the top horizontal trim piece (75531-60030) is too loose, as the windshield sits a tiny bit too low and the channel is too wide.
The "dams" (56117-60040 x2, 56117-60040, 56117-60050) are more important - they space the windshield forward from the body and the distance is essential so that the windshield is flush with the side garnishes. They also stop the sealant from smearing within the viewing area once you press the windshield.

Other than that it is relatively straightforward. Take care not to damage the headliner. Check the FSM at LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io

(looks much worse than it was. Most of it is just dirt.

Epoxy primed after wire wheeling any rust spots.

Here you can see the dams installed before applying the sealant. Use a good sealant and 100% apply primer before it!

Use the OEM rivets. They are not so special, just thinner. I bought the cheapest rivet gun from the construction market and ground it so that it fits in the garnish.

 

[sr5pickup]

I have done the entire process myself. No more difficult than any other windshield install just follow the FSM and use the recommended dam. Use proper urethane and apply just as the FSM suggests. You’ll need a battery operated caulking/urethane gun as the urethane is too hard to squeeze out with a manual gun.

Set aside plenty of time to pull the windshield and assess any possible damage underneath (rust). If there’s rust depending on how much you’ll need to remove it. I wouldn’t recommend rust converters, I personally don’t think those are effective, just my opinion. The rust needs to be completely removed by cutting, grinding or wire brush. Some pics from mine, I had rust issues and removed it was via wire wheel and carbide cutting tools. I then epoxy primed the surface the windshield would mount to and repainted the surfaces the trim would mount to.

 

[MissouriLC]

I did it a couple of months back. It was not a replacement, but I removed the current windshield, repaired some nascent rust spots and re-applied the sealannt properly to stop a leak on the driver side pillar. Nothing overly complicated.
The FSM asks for "stoppers" - 56115-60020. I ignored them, which in hindsight was a mistake. You can do without them, but they are used to properly space the windshield from the roof and you should be prepared for that. I eyeballed it and now the top horizontal trim piece (75531-60030) is too loose, as the windshield sits a tiny bit too low and the channel is too wide.
The "dams" (56117-60040 x2, 56117-60040, 56117-60050) are more important - they space the windshield forward from the body and the distance is essential so that the windshield is flush with the side garnishes. They also stop the sealant from smearing within the viewing area once you press the windshield.

Other than that it is relatively straightforward. Take care not to damage the headliner. Check the FSM at LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io

(looks much worse than it was. Most of it is just dirt.
View attachment 3018199

Epoxy primed after wire wheeling any rust spots.

View attachment 3018196

Here you can see the dams installed before applying the sealant. Use a good sealant and 100% apply primer before it!

View attachment 3018198


Use the OEM rivets. They are not so special, just thinner. I bought the cheapest rivet gun from the construction market and ground it so that it fits in the garnish.

View attachment 3018207

View attachment 3018208

Awesome! Well done!

So, you did everything yourself, including setting the glass? Where did you purchase the windshield. Also, any recommendations on the proper type of urethane and the suction cups?

I'm feeling better about this by the minute!

 

[MissouriLC]

I have done the entire process myself. No more difficult than any other windshield install just follow the FSM and use the recommended dam. Use proper urethane and apply just as the FSM suggests. You’ll need a battery operated caulking/urethane gun as the urethane is too hard to squeeze out with a manual gun.

Set aside plenty of time to pull the windshield and assess any possible damage underneath (rust). If there’s rust depending on how much you’ll need to remove it. I wouldn’t recommend rust converters, I personally don’t think those are effective, just my opinion. The rust needs to be completely removed by cutting, grinding or wire brush. Some pics from mine, I had rust issues and removed it was via wire wheel and carbide cutting tools. I then epoxy primed the surface the windshield would mount to and repainted the surfaces the trim would mount to.

View attachment 3018202

View attachment 3018203

View attachment 3018204

View attachment 3018205

View attachment 3018206

Awesome! Well done!

This is giving me a lot more confidence to complete this myself. Where did you purchase your windshield and your installation tools and materials (suction cups, urethane, etc.)?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Glass shops with sell you the glass. Find one selling a brand you like and swipe the visa. Suction cups are a harbor freight thing. Electric gun for the urethane will likely be available from one of your tool rental companies. Haven't purchased the urethane or primer, but I'd figure the usual online suspects can help there.

 

[Moridinbg]

I didn't replace with new a glass, just reinstalled the existing one, due to botched installation at some point in the past.
I used Teroson Bond 60 by Henkel, because I have access to it via a friend who works with it. It might or might no be available in the US, don't know, but is OEM used by some of the big German automakers.

 

[sr5pickup]

Awesome! Well done!

This is giving me a lot more confidence to complete this myself. Where did you purchase your windshield and your installation tools and materials (suction cups, urethane, etc.)?

The windshield I purchased from a local glass company, just shop around and ask for delivery if you don’t want to pick up. For the tools I purchased a Milwaukee gun just for the job. I figured it was worth it since taking it somewhere would still cost more or even if I broke even with the cost of everything doing it myself it was still worth it. As mentioned above the suction cups can be bought from harbor freight or Amazon. The urethane I also purchased from Amazon which was a 3m Auto glass urethane adhesive. You could also try a auto body supply store as well just make sure you get urethane adhesive for auto glass installation. Take your time and give yourself plenty of room to work. Also protect the areas around the windshield with tape or similar so you don’t scratch the paint or get adhesive on it.

Amazon product ASIN B000RW1XCK

 

[roemer7]

I did it a couple of months back. It was not a replacement, but I removed the current windshield, repaired some nascent rust spots and re-applied the sealannt properly to stop a leak on the driver side pillar. Nothing overly complicated.
The FSM asks for "stoppers" - 56115-60020. I ignored them, which in hindsight was a mistake. You can do without them, but they are used to properly space the windshield from the roof and you should be prepared for that. I eyeballed it and now the top horizontal trim piece (75531-60030) is too loose, as the windshield sits a tiny bit too low and the channel is too wide.
The "dams" (56117-60040 x2, 56117-60040, 56117-60050) are more important - they space the windshield forward from the body and the distance is essential so that the windshield is flush with the side garnishes. They also stop the sealant from smearing within the viewing area once you press the windshield.

Other than that it is relatively straightforward. Take care not to damage the headliner. Check the FSM at LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io

(looks much worse than it was. Most of it is just dirt.
View attachment 3018199

Epoxy primed after wire wheeling any rust spots.

View attachment 3018196

Here you can see the dams installed before applying the sealant. Use a good sealant and 100% apply primer before it!

View attachment 3018198


Use the OEM rivets. They are not so special, just thinner. I bought the cheapest rivet gun from the construction market and ground it so that it fits in the garnish.

View attachment 3018207

View attachment 3018208

For the dams, you have one part number listed twice. Was that intentional?
Thanks for the writeup.

 

[75Denver]

Hopefully someone can respond before mine goes in, but I managed to get my insurance company to cover OEM glass and molding. However, the company doing the work didn’t quote the job with the dams. I spoke with them about all four sides having new material and their response is that the only part they replace is the upper molding along the roof bc it’s more cosmetic than functional (keeping water/air out). When asked about why not replace it all, they said “That’s not the way they do it. If you have air or water, it’s bc the urethane seal was improperly done.” Thoughts? I’m about to buy my own dams and ask them to do the job right…or find another company.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Unless someone has replaced the rivet-concealing dams on the sides, those are gonna be wrecked during the removal due to being brittle. These need to be scoped in.

The glass to body seal is not the only part of this job that lets air into the body if done incorrectly. It does not sound like they are familiar with this installation.

 

[sr5pickup]

The dams also act as a shim of sorts to help set the windshield at the correct height off the body/flange. This is so all the riveted trim and top weatherstrip line up the way Toyota intended and there are no gaps. With that said there have been plenty of windshields set on these without use of the dams and they managed to get the trim to line up. Shop around and see if you can find a shop that will follow the fsm. I will say it does take more time following the fsm because you have to set the dams at a certain distance from the edge of the glass. Also whomever does the install you need to make sure there is no rust, any small spot needs to be addressed as it will only grow and potentially become a problem.

 

[75Denver]

Thank you @Zjohnsonua and @sr5pickup. I went back to AAA to have them add the additional pieces per FSM installation. Sounds like I need to shop around.

 

[katit]

@MissouriLC, what happened? I am in EXACTLY same shoes. Companies I reached here in STL don't sound convincing. I am going DIY way. I read manual carefully and seems like if I buy all dams/spacers - it's just a matter of following instruction, very little skill needed.

I just hate to pay $60+ for Toyota adhesive and not sure where to get Primer M and Primer G for glass/body (seems like NA in USA). So, adhesive part will have to be just best adhesive possible..

 

[DuckLN]

You can try to get a pilkington windshield but they are difficult to find. Other than that try to get oem if possible which is about $740.

I went oem since insurance was paying.