DIY: Rear Lower Links (1 Viewer)

[CarolinaGX]

I thought I would start a separate thread on this. I don't know if anyone else has ventured to make their own RLCA's but I hope those that have, will share.

I am using Currie Johnny Joints 2.5" narrow body's with 2.365 wide balls and 9/16" bolts. Tubing is 1.75" x 0.250" DOM. The axle joint is a welded version offset to allow for more clearance of the axle housing and smoother sliding. This is apparently necessary as I tend to slide/bend them By my measure, the stock links are 685mm (~27") center to center. I will construct mine to be 680mm (26 7/8") at it's most compressed length.

Please ask questions, comment, and share. Even if you didnt make your own, please share things that you wish your RLCA's had or didn't have. Please do not bash other's products though.

As full disclosure, I am not a fabricator. I am just a hack with a variety of tools that is too broke to be able to pay for the good stuff.

 

[CO_Hunter]

One of these days I am just going to weld on some thick angle to reinforce the bottom of the stock arms. I’ve seen some 100 guys do that.

I do admire your efforts though.

 

[Jstawgn]

One of these days I am just going to weld on some thick angle to reinforce the bottom of the stock arms. I’ve seen some 100 guys do that.

I do admire your efforts though.

This is what i would probably do. I don't have long or even extended travel rear shock so the arm should not bottom out to the axle housing yet.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

@CarolinaGX why are you making your RLLs a tad shorter than stock? Oh because you can extend them about 1”?

 

[James C]

I've been strongly considering doing this myself as well. What did you use to cut the circular shape on the axle end of the tube?

 

[CarolinaGX]

I've been strongly considering doing this myself as well. What did you use to cut the circular shape on the axle end of the tube?

I use a tube notcher from Harbor Freight and a 2.5" Lennox hole saw from Lowes. I use a hand drill on the slowest speed instead of my drill press.

One of these days I am just going to weld on some thick angle to reinforce the bottom of the stock arms. I’ve seen some 100 guys do that.

I would have considered that option too if i hadn't already bent one. I suggest you do it soon while they are still straight

 

[CarolinaGX]

@CarolinaGX why are you making your RLLs a tad shorter than stock? Oh because you can extend them about 1”?

Mostly because I don't completely trust my measurement because my eyes are getting older. I want to be sure that I can accomplish the stock length should the need arise. MT suggests 1/8-3/16" longer for lifted trucks to correct pinion angle. So, that would mean that I would have ~1/4" threaded out of the tube + 3/8" the jam nut to achieve proper alignment which I think is within an acceptable range.

 

[CarolinaGX]

All welded up by my buddy (My welds aren't this pretty). Now to prep for paint

 

[CO_Hunter]

Nice work.

Any idea on wall thickness of stock arms?

 

[CarolinaGX]

I don't have any idea. Perhaps I will cut up my bent one to measure after I install these.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

I didn't do this on my GX but i made my own pan hard, hi steer kit and long arm links on my Jeep a few years ago.

Only suggestion is roset welding the insert into the rod body. Drill two holes into the DOM about 3/8" from the edge. Slide the threarded insert in then roset weld the holes closed, then run a bead along the outter lip.

It gives the insert more surface area to weld to. Might not be necessary, but I didn't want my joint weld failing and coming undone after being dragged or dropped on.

 

[vwynn]

my coworker and I were talking about this yesterday! Glad someone is doing it... all you need is DOM + Johnny joints/Heim + bushing housing + Bushing in terms of material or you can go double Heims



Check out this video, i watched it yesterday and he does an additional rosette weld on the bung for additional safety factor. Very cool!


Also, if its not too much can you post up your BOM cost? im curious how much parts cost. i calculated around:

4 Feet DOM	$50​
Johnny Joint Weld Sleeve	14​
2.5" Johnny Joint	$56​
Bushing	$20​
Bushing Sleeve	$20​
Per side	$160​

 

[CarolinaGX]

5 Feet DOM 1.75" x 0.250"	$81
Johnny Joint Weld Sleeve ($53ea)	$106
2.5" Johnny Joint ($53ea)	$106
Jam Nuts	$10
Bushing Sleeve ($10ea)	$20
Total (161.5ea)	$323

 

[CarolinaGX]

Only suggestion is roset welding the insert into the rod body. Drill two holes into the DOM about 3/8" from the edge. Slide the threarded insert in then roset weld the holes closed, then run a bead along the outter lip.

@ArBrnSnpr Thank you for the reminder. I meant to do it and it somehow escaped me. Thankfully, it isnt too late to do it.

 

[CarolinaGX]

Only suggestion is roset welding the insert into the rod body. Drill two holes into the DOM about 3/8" from the edge. Slide the threarded insert in then roset weld the holes closed, then run a bead along the outter lip.

@ArBrnSnpr Thank you for the reminder. I meant to do it and it somehow escaped me. Thankfully, it isnt too late to do it.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

In the prices to build your own, where’s the powder coating cost and grade 8 bolts?

 

[Eyedaho]

In the prices to build your own, where’s the powder coating cost and grade 8 bolts?

It seemed to me like he was just being nice enough to share what he's done so far. I'm just guessing here, but since he's showing them in bare metal and saying that the next step is to prep for paint, maybe he's not going to powder coat them. And since they're not attached to his rig yet, maybe he hasn't bought the bolts and therefore isn't quoting a price.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

I priced building my own links too with the GX and with the cost of the JJ, jam nuts and threaded inserts, it just made sense to buy metaltech's.

That said, the satisfaction of building your own parts is great.

With that said, my links didn't come with new hardware either.

 

[James C]

In the prices to build your own, where’s the powder coating cost and grade 8 bolts?

Considering the likelyhood of these getting scratched I would say paint is probably a better option than powdercoat anyway.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

I didn't mean to sound rude in my questions. I do think that there's great satisfaction in building your own parts...something that I cannot do myself. And I think @CarolinaGX has some great fab skills.

I was just trying to add up the costs in my head and trying to figure out how the vendors make money considering that the costs are adding up fast and didn't have powder coating nor bolts in the costs list. I know the vendors get some economies of scale when buying bulk, but this makes me appreciate the small vendors who are manufacturing their own products.