Ooops...double post.
DIY: Rear Lower Links
- Thread starter CarolinaGX
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- #22
I plan to paint them with chassis/suspension epoxy paint that I already have from other projects cost $0. There is no requirement to change the hardware as they fit inside the factory mounting points and the joints are spec'd for 14mm/9/16". That being said, I am replacing them with Grade 8 bolts because I am adding skids to the frame mount which requires longer bolts.
I agree with ArbrnSnpr that the MT's are a very good value, especially during their black Friday deal. The only reason I didnt buy theirs is I wanted a Johnny joint on the axle side too, instead of the poly. I wonder if they would offer and "upgrade" upon request.
I agree with ArbrnSnpr that the MT's are a very good value, especially during their black Friday deal. The only reason I didnt buy theirs is I wanted a Johnny joint on the axle side too, instead of the poly. I wonder if they would offer and "upgrade" upon request.
Buying fixed JJ instead of sleeved poly, you'd be a good bit over the cost of Metaltech links even with 15% off if they made them.
If your links are exactly what you wanted, you probably saved about $100 or so fabbing them. Plus the satisfaction of running DIY parts.
I will say, it's nice seeing guys cut and weld metal to make their own stuff. It was common place in the Jeep world and seems more rare in the 120 threads. Lots of cool builds here, but mostly all bolt on stuff.
I'm going to be building some skids for my links and shock attachments soon. Can you post some pics of what you came up with?
If your links are exactly what you wanted, you probably saved about $100 or so fabbing them. Plus the satisfaction of running DIY parts.
I will say, it's nice seeing guys cut and weld metal to make their own stuff. It was common place in the Jeep world and seems more rare in the 120 threads. Lots of cool builds here, but mostly all bolt on stuff.
I'm going to be building some skids for my links and shock attachments soon. Can you post some pics of what you came up with?
Here’s a 7-page discussion on a relevant topic. Oem rubber bushing on one end and Johnny joint on the other seems to be one way to go... New style rear control arms that will offer better and smoother articulation
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- #25
A good read. Lots of opinion based on actual usage (not speculations). There was nothing definitive that makes the JJ on both ends bad or ill tempered. All of the negatives on the JJ type joint were not JJ's.
Because I do not have a long travel setup on my truck, I do not expect to get the full advantage of these links as I have built them. I hope to grow into them some day and I don't want to build them over and over as I grow. I realize every design involves compromises and at the moment, with the links untested, I am happy with the compromises that I made. I may change my opinion after a few miles on the highway and trail, but we will have to wait and see. I will post my findings as I go.
Because I do not have a long travel setup on my truck, I do not expect to get the full advantage of these links as I have built them. I hope to grow into them some day and I don't want to build them over and over as I grow. I realize every design involves compromises and at the moment, with the links untested, I am happy with the compromises that I made. I may change my opinion after a few miles on the highway and trail, but we will have to wait and see. I will post my findings as I go.
The reason why you would run bushings on the body side instead of JJ is to minimize vibrations coming into the body/frame and also cost.
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If youre building an all out rock crawler than double heims/JJ would be more beneficial but marginally.
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If youre building an all out rock crawler than double heims/JJ would be more beneficial but marginally.
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- #27
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- #28
All that is left is to grease them and install on the truck. I will post my review of the ride once they are installed.
They look professionally made. Now let’s see how they perform. You built them faster than the 6 week backlog at Resz Fab! Lol
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- #30
@HomersCanyonero Most of the time it took me was waiting for a suitable day to paint them 
I greased, installed, and drove them today. No squeaks or noise of any kind. I didnt notice any additional vibrations outside of the normal feel with the Nitto tires. I didn't drive on the highway but got up to about 55mph and went over several speed bumps while running errands. The original bushings looked fine which is a testament to the quality of Toyota's parts. I am very happy with the outcome at this point. If I notice anything out of the ordinary or change my opinion, I will update this thread. I can't wait to see how they perform at Windrock Park in February.
I greased, installed, and drove them today. No squeaks or noise of any kind. I didnt notice any additional vibrations outside of the normal feel with the Nitto tires. I didn't drive on the highway but got up to about 55mph and went over several speed bumps while running errands. The original bushings looked fine which is a testament to the quality of Toyota's parts. I am very happy with the outcome at this point. If I notice anything out of the ordinary or change my opinion, I will update this thread. I can't wait to see how they perform at Windrock Park in February.
- Thread starter
- #32
@ArBrnSnpr - Thank you.
I took the family to my parent's house (60 miles each way) mostly highway with speeds over 80mph. There was no noticeable vibrations or noise what so ever. I am very happy I built them the way I did. Now to test on the trail
I took the family to my parent's house (60 miles each way) mostly highway with speeds over 80mph. There was no noticeable vibrations or noise what so ever. I am very happy I built them the way I did. Now to test on the trail
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- #33
I cut the bent RCLA today and it measures 0.090" wall x 1.35" HREW. It is not DOM.
Knowing this, the 0.250" x 1.75" DOM is 5-6 times stronger than the stock tube. This isn't to say that my setup is 5-6 times stronger due to the JJ's and threaded insert (I dont know how to calculate that). But, the tube should be far less likely to bend on a rock.
Knowing this, the 0.250" x 1.75" DOM is 5-6 times stronger than the stock tube. This isn't to say that my setup is 5-6 times stronger due to the JJ's and threaded insert (I dont know how to calculate that). But, the tube should be far less likely to bend on a rock.
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- #35
typo corrected, thanks
