DIY Rear Brake Replacement: Need some wisdom

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01- Very cool of you for going to the trouble of taking pictures- Thank You. That helps confirm that I've got the clips in the right place-

Now on to the stinking E-brake overhaul. Thankfully I left one side assembled so I can use that for reference.
 
Epilogue....

Finally got some time over the weekend to get the bell cranks rebuilt, new e-brake shoes and associated ebrake hardware, new rotors & pads installed. I should have finished this sooner but I had ordered the e-brake rebuild kit from a small aftermarket OEM parts supplier trusted their parts list unfortunately it was missing 2 important ( $.50 cent C washers) which held up the project for a week.

It's my first Land Cruiser so the process learning curve is steeper for me. If had to make a living by wrenching, I'd probably starve; I'm as slow as a turtle. I spent way too much time on this project between parts runs, web searches, posts here and multiple re-reading of the FSM. The irony is that in 50,000 or 60,000 miles from now when its ready for brakes again, I'll have forgotten what I learned from this job:D. Other than learning more about my truck, and taking satisfaction in doing it myself, it would probably been cheaper to drop it off and have it done.

Everything went back together as it should but I did encounter a scraping noise on my initial test drive. That bummed me out, since I took my time on the reassembly making sure to follow the FSM to the letter- only leaving out 1 step: using the dial indicator to check the runout on the rotor. I didn't think it necessary on new rotors. I thought maybe I had the shoes set a tad tight so back to the garage to check. No dragging. So wheels back off and pulled the rotors back off to inspect inside. E-brake shoes looked good. I re-checked return spring functionality, rechecked the bell crank adjustment per the FSM and all good. Started looking for other causes (internet search) and checked the backing plate and noticed a small rub towards the bottom of the plate (between 4 & 8 o'clock). I got out the grinder and "relieved" some of that edge and reinstalled the rotors and test drove. Noise was gone when driving straight, but slight scrape while turning body roll would initiate the noise again. It was much less noticeable, so I decided to drive it for a day and see how everything beds in.

Took the truck for a 200 mile ride yesterday, drove some easy trails, and some forest roads. By the time i got home the noise was all but gone- What I attribute the scrape to was the new rotor tolerances being very close, and the rub was the inner edge of the machining on the rotor against the backing plate. The scrape had nothing to do with braking function or braking surfaces, just how the parts mated new to old. Its possible that had I checked the run out, I may have avoided this but who knows. Its all good now and my rear brakes and E brake are working as they should now.

Fwiw- I used all oem toyota parts on this rebuild. Total parts cost was just under $500 (new rotors, pads, shims, slide pins, slide pin boots, fitting kit, new caliper & pin mounting bolts, all new ebrake hardware( shoes, springs, bellcranks, boots, & related hardware)

Thanks to all those who chimed in and helped guide me through the process.
 
I need to replace my rare break rotors and pads. Searched Ebay and Amazon for OEM parts and can't seem to find. Any links/sites?
 
Several online toyo dealers selling at 25-34% off list, I think there's one in Austin. Seems the list price varies between some dealers, so check a few to make sure their retail parts price against the online discount, and then factor the shipping cost. Some offer free shipping, but lower discount. You have to shop around online. Or contact Beno, or CDan here on Mud who are independents selling factory parts at discounted (fair) prices, (also providing some consultative support).

Good luck with your project.
 
4.) E-brake Components: The e-brake is frozen ( bell cranks rusted) and Ive got service kit ordered to replace the brackets, boots, pins etc. I plan to replace the e-brake shoes as well. Am I missing something here? Any other parts in the Ebrake system to consider or replace?

Do you have more details on how you unfroze the E-brake? My E-brake lever basically feels like it is not hooked up to anything when you pull up on it (and of course it doesn’t do anything). The cable going across the back of the vehicle is really loose. I had my mechanic inspect the truck before purchasing it, and he said the E-brake was seized and he would have to take the brakes apart to figure out where and how to unseize it. I likely need new rear pads, too. The brakes started making a whining noise when I’m moving forward at a crawl, and whistle when applied. I’m wondering if this is something I can try myself.

I’m printing out the Brake Service Manual sections now. At least I can start familiarizing myself with it.
 
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I recently replaced all E-brake parts using the Cruiserparts "Parking Brake Lever Kit 93-07"
Parking Brake Lever Kit 93-07 [BRAKE-HARD-93-07] - $119.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

My brakes had been seized for a few years (yeah, I know....). The plan was to drill out the pins and refurbish the old bell cranks and bell crank brackets and keep them as spares. I got them moving by holding the crank in a vise and put an adjustable wrench on the brackets. However, I was really surprised that these totally seized parts could be freed up with a few shots of WD40. I tried all kind of other fluids first, but for some reason WD40 did the trick (inspired by AvE's recent testing on his YT channel).

So you may not new parts. You may even be able to do this on the vehicle. Worth a shot (of WD40).

If you overhaul the brakes, you may want to look at post#9 RTH:Parking brake. I was really struggling with the retaining clips for a while before I found out there is an easier way.
 
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I recently replaced all E-brake parts using the Cruiserparts "Parking Brake Lever Kit 93-07"
Parking Brake Lever Kit 93-07 [BRAKE-HARD-93-07] - $119.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

My brakes had been seized for a few years (yeah, I know....). The plan was to drill out the pins and refurbish the old bell cranks and bell crank brackets and keep them as spares. I got them moving by holding the crank in a vise and put an adjustable wrench on the brackets. However, I was really surprised that these totally seized parts could be freed up with a few shots of WD40. I tried all kind of other fluids first, but for some reason WD40 did the trick (inspired by AvE's recent testing on his YT channel).

So you may not new parts. You may even be able to do this on the vehicle. Worth a shot (of WD40).

If you overhaul the brakes, you may want to look at post#9 RTH:Parking brake. I was really struggling with the retaining clips for a while before I found out there is an easier way.

Thank you! This is great info! If I can get under there (no way to lift the car for now), I will try some WD40. It would be awesome if I could get the e-brake working again by just spraying a bit of that stuff. I hate not having an e-brake. What parts would need a few squirts exactly?
 
Thank you! This is great info! If I can get under there (no way to lift the car for now), I will try some WD40. It would be awesome if I could get the e-brake working again by just spraying a bit of that stuff. I hate not having an e-brake. What parts would need a few squirts exactly?

There probably is no need to lift the vehicle. The bell cranks are on the inside of the rear wheels, behind the axle. You should be able to get to them from the rear of the vehicle. Follow the parking cable brake going to both break drums. Also make sure to inspect the pivot point mounted off the the left of the axle. I found this also seizes up. I had to undo mine a bit to free it up and allow oil to penetrate. Loosen the bolt from the top.

The attached document explains everything much better than I could.
 

Attachments

There probably is no need to lift the vehicle. The bell cranks are on the inside of the rear wheels, behind the axle. You should be able to get to them from the rear of the vehicle. Follow the parking cable brake going to both break drums. Also make sure to inspect the pivot point mounted off the the left of the axle. I found this also seizes up. I had to undo mine a bit to free it up and allow oil to penetrate. Loosen the bolt from the top.

The attached document explains everything much better than I could.

Perfect! Thank you for sharing this. I’m going to try it, maybe tomorrow.

Update: wouldn’t you know it... my can of WD40 is empty.
 
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@white_lx: Got a new can of WD-40. I did finally spray WD-40 and let it soak in. I also noticed the e-brake adjuster was set pretty much as wide open as possible, explaining why there was no resistance on the handle. I adjusted it so pulling the e-brake would actually do something. I was able to get the e-brakes to engage, and it required a bit of force, the first time. They got stuck engaged, though. I had to use a hammer to disengage them. I tried this a few times to see if they’d loosen up enough to start working again, but they just won’t spring back when I disengage the e-brake. The second time it was much easier (still needed to use a hammer) to get them to disengage.

When engaged they completely stop the car from moving forwards or backwards.

I wonder if it just needs new springs?
 
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I wonder if it just needs new springs?

I doubt you need new springs. Did you verify that the pivot point at the rear differential is moving freely (where you adjust the cable)? That can also keep the brakes applied.

If you are unable to get them moving without removal, it might be necessary to remove them and 'exercise' them free if salvageable or replace.
 
The cable is moving freely.

I ordered the replacement kit from Cruiser parts. I’m just going to replace them, and try to restore the old parts as a separate project.

I doubt you need new springs. Did you verify that the pivot point at the rear differential is moving freely (where you adjust the cable)? That can also keep the brakes applied.

If you are unable to get them moving without removal, it might be necessary to remove them and 'exercise' them free if salvageable or replace.
 

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