DIY - GX460 Valve Covers, Cam Towers, Coolant Valley and Timing Cover (4 Viewers)

[agentmm]

It's time to FIPG the cam towers. What do you think is the best way to do this? Should I put the FIPG on the engine block or on the cam towers? Space is tight, and I'm not sure which option will give me the best results.

I applied to the block. I think if you watch that YT link at the beginning of this post, there might be something there about applying FIPG for the towers. (Maybe not though, fuzzy memory)

Take your time with planning FIPG and do it right the first time!

 

[swild]

I think I'll go the block route, like this dude in this video:

If you put it on the towers, I just don't see how you can get the towers in there without it getting FIPG all over the place.

 

[agentmm]

I think I'll go the block route, like this dude in this video:

If you put it on the towers, I just don't see how you can get the towers in there without it getting FIPG all over the place.

Yes that's what I did and that's the vid I was referencing

 

[swild]

Houston we have a problem.
I got the driver's side cam tower on a piece of cake. When I went to torque them down, I noticed I was putting a lot of torque on the bolts, way more than what 30 ft-lbs felt like. Then I heard a snap. The bolt snapped. I think the torque wrench I rented isn't calibrated right.

Thank goodness it all came out. I checked the block, and the threads are okay. All I need to do now is find another one of these bolts. Any suggestions on where to find one?

 

[agentmm]

Lexus. I'm taking that in there and getting them to match it up. Find it in the FSM before hand.

I guess you got it all out the block. Awesome.

 

[swild]

Lexus. I'm taking that in there and getting them to match it up. Find it in the FSM before hand.

I guess you got it all out the block. Awesome.

I found the problem. The Torque wrench is correct; the problem was that I set it to 30ft-lbs when it called for 30NM.
30NM is actually 22ft-lbs. *slaps forehead*

Anyway, Lexus was super kind and helped me find the part. I'll have it tomorrow morning.
The part number is: 90105A0205

Note to others: triple-check your torque amounts, and don't confuse NM for ft-lbs!!!

 

[swild]

I finished! After seven long days I cranked her up and she didn't explode!

To all of those who are curious, this was a beast of a job. If it weren't for @agentmm and this post, I don't think I would have attempted it with the FSM alone.
Here's some notes.

• It took me 7 days to complete. If the gasket kit weren't missing some gaskets, I think I could have finished the job in maybe 4-5 days. I also lost a day to having to order a bolt. More on that in the next bullet.
• Double and triple check everything you're doing. I almost broke off a cam tower bolt in the engine block because I calibrated my torque wrench wrong. That would have been an absolute nightmare to resolve. Check your settings and measurements.
  • You have to be methodical with your disassembly, labeling, and assembly. Slow and steady wins the race. This sounds like a hassle, but it really saves you time during the assembly because you know what things are and where they go. I like taking videos of my progress and describing the process. Super helpful when reinstalling difficult things. Putting the bolts in cardboard like @agentmm does works great.
• This post by @agentmm is pretty much perfect. Follow it and the FSM and you'll be set.
• Buy or rent proper tools. I could not have done this job without a quality ratchet set with plenty of extensions. You really need a diverse set of 3/8 and 1/2 inch sockets. Don't skimp. The real MVP of tools was this micro ratchet that got me into a lot of tight spaces. Especially the rear area around the passenger valve cover. That area is a rats nest of bolts, wires, and tubes that had me saying all 13 curse words know to man. My hands look like I'm a dentist for Aligators. Also, there's a bolt on the back of the cam towers near the firewall that is all but impossible to reach without something like that micro ratchet.

Anyway, if you're brave and have a taste for pain, this job is possible for a DYI.
Thanks again, @agentmm, I really appreciate you leading the way with this post and for helping when I got stuck. You're a legend.
Thanks for helping me get my engine looking mint as a gravy boat with biscuit wheels!

 

[agentmm]

I finished! After seven long days I cranked her up and she didn't explode!

To all of those who are curious, this was a beast of a job. If it weren't for @agentmm and this post, I don't think I would have attempted it with the FSM alone.
Here's some notes.

• It took me 7 days to complete. If the gasket kit weren't missing some gaskets, I think I could have finished the job in maybe 4-5 days. I also lost a day to having to order a bolt. More on that in the next bullet.
• Double and triple check everything you're doing. I almost broke off a cam tower bolt in the engine block because I calibrated my torque wrench wrong. That would have been an absolute nightmare to resolve. Check your settings and measurements.
  • You have to be methodical with your disassembly, labeling, and assembly. Slow and steady wins the race. This sounds like a hassle, but it really saves you time during the assembly because you know what things are and where they go. I like taking videos of my progress and describing the process. Super helpful when reinstalling difficult things. Putting the bolts in cardboard like @agentmm does works great.
• This post by @agentmm is pretty much perfect. Follow it and the FSM and you'll be set.
• Buy or rent proper tools. I could not have done this job without a quality ratchet set with plenty of extensions. You really need a diverse set of 3/8 and 1/2 inch sockets. Don't skimp. The real MVP of tools was this micro ratchet that got me into a lot of tight spaces. Especially the rear area around the passenger valve cover. That area is a rats nest of bolts, wires, and tubes that had me saying all 13 curse words know to man. My hands look like I'm a dentist for Aligators. Also, there's a bolt on the back of the cam towers near the firewall that is all but impossible to reach without something like that micro ratchet.

Anyway, if you're brave and have a taste for pain, this job is possible for a DYI.
Thanks again, @agentmm, I really appreciate you leading the way with this post and for helping when I got stuck. You're a legend.
Thanks for helping me get my engine looking mint as a gravy boat with biscuit wheels!

View attachment 3683521

And saved yourself however many thousands of dollars at the mechanic....


Nice work man. Real proud of you. Big win for the home garage team!

 

[Southwest]

Just planted another flag today for the home team - been working nights and weekends. Would not have been able to do this or even attempt without this great write-up.

Stay tuned I still have to clean and reassemble!

 

[Acrad]

I have some mad respect for you. While I may undertake a coolant valley leak.. I have no intention of cam tower or timing cover leak repairs myself.

 

[swild]

Just planted another flag today for the home team - been working nights and weekends. Would not have been able to do this or even attempt without this great write-up.

Stay tuned I still have to clean and reassemble!

View attachment 3877992
View attachment 3877993

Right on, brother! Show'em how it's done!

 

[Southwest]

Biggest push today - cleaned all the FIPG mating surfaces.

Few takeaways for somebody later after trying a bunch of things:

1) do a first pass with the plastic razor blades - get all the exposed FIPG seams off there. I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YF7TFJD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

2) these plastic scrapers are clutch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097P6567P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

3) took agentmm’s advice and used the ultra fine scotchbrite pads - the blue ones suck - use the ultra fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4TKTOL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

4) skip the brake cleaner and use carb cleaner. This is like $7 a can at Autozone

Tomorrow I’ll do another wipe down and then clean bolts then it’s FIPG time. Here’s a few pics of the cleaned up surfaces.

 

[Southwest]

 

[Southwest]

Timed

Sealed

Torqued

Milestone reached - all downhill from here

 

[swild]

Looking good! Keep up the good work!

 

[r2m]

View attachment 3888155
Timed


View attachment 3888156
Sealed

View attachment 3888157
Torqued

Milestone reached - all downhill from here

So far, what has been the hardest part/most difficult task in getting this far, aside from having to convince yourself to do it.
Also, getting this far, have you needed or wished you had any special or particular tools that would have made any part of this easier?

 

[Southwest]

So far, what has been the hardest part/most difficult task in getting this far, aside from having to convince yourself to do it.
Also, getting this far, have you needed or wished you had any special or particular tools that would have made any part of this easier?

Great question - I would say

-there’s a couple annoying bolts you don’t have good access to - need extensions and swivel sockets. Some extensions are too short, some too long and finding creative solutions and being a “bolt hunter” is required. For instance a short extension that works is 1/2 to 3/8 socket adaptor which is shorter than an actual short extension.

-electrical connectors - some of the suck to get out. Need a good dental pick and watching YouTube on how to do it safely without breaking them. I broke a clip on the pass camshaft position sensor - had to find the connector type online, then find one that wasn’t $60. Then I got a connector de-pin set and instead of replacing harness ($$$$) just going to depin and replace.

-cleaning gasket mating surfaces can be annoying esp camshaft housing assembly surface still on the head of the motor. You’re crawling into the motor and doing yoga scrubbing. Good spot is putting a foot on the crank and sitting on the front hood support.

-Making sure NO oil is present for FIPG application and then installation is harrowing. Just take your time and get organized and rehearse a few times dry to get your angles right is paramount.

-follow the FSM (referenced heavily). Follow directions like you’re baking a cake. I tried to do something out of order - installed the pass chain tensioner before the slipper and broke the plastic on the slipper. Had to replace ($31 Bell Lexus) and set me back a couple days (wasn’t working on it anyway). Removing driver chain tensioner you realize there’s a metal gasket that must be replaced. Something not listed in this write up.

Finally - currently it’s sorting through all the replacement rubber gaskets. Not of them are labeled so take good pictures, or save the ones that came out so you can compare.

Prob more to come but otherwise if you’re cataloguing everything with labels, photos, numbers and take your time it’s not hard, just some tricky things. Gotta take your time.

 

[Southwest]

Great question - I would say

-there’s a couple annoying bolts you don’t have good access to - need extensions and swivel sockets. Some extensions are too short, some too long and finding creative solutions and being a “bolt hunter” is required. For instance a short extension that works is 1/2 to 3/8 socket adaptor which is shorter than an actual short extension.

-electrical connectors - some of the suck to get out. Need a good dental pick and watching YouTube on how to do it safely without breaking them. I broke a clip on the pass camshaft position sensor - had to find the connector type online, then find one that wasn’t $60. Then I got a connector de-pin set and instead of replacing harness ($$$$) just going to depin and replace.
View attachment 3889283

-cleaning gasket mating surfaces can be annoying esp camshaft housing assembly surface still on the head of the motor. You’re crawling into the motor and doing yoga scrubbing. Good spot is putting a foot on the crank and sitting on the front hood support.

-Making sure NO oil is present for FIPG application and then installation is harrowing. Just take your time and get organized and rehearse a few times dry to get your angles right is paramount.

-follow the FSM (referenced heavily). Follow directions like you’re baking a cake. I tried to do something out of order - installed the pass chain tensioner before the slipper and broke the plastic on the slipper. Had to replace ($31 Bell Lexus) and set me back a couple days (wasn’t working on it anyway). Removing driver chain tensioner you realize there’s a metal gasket that must be replaced. Something not listed in this write up.

View attachment 3889291
View attachment 3889292

Finally - currently it’s sorting through all the replacement rubber gaskets. Not of them are labeled so take good pictures, or save the ones that came out so you can compare.

Prob more to come but otherwise if you’re cataloguing everything with labels, photos, numbers and take your time it’s not hard, just some tricky things. Gotta take your time.

Couple links:

Camshaft position sensor elec connector:
MOTOKU Camshaft Cam Position... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QSHMW1W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Terminal De-pin tool set
Terminal Pin Removal Tool Kit 82... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0922GF9W8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Crank bolt removal (more importantly, reassembly) tool
E-cowlboy for Toyota/Lexus... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1W36L7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Doing tonight: fuel injectors - here’s a cheap way to clean with carb cleaner: YouTube it.

Edit - this didn’t work - electrical connector supplied doesn’t match the fuel injector pins. That can be adjusted and the important part is the plastic thing that attaches to a can of carb cleaner.
PACLVIO 4Pcs Fuel Injector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4TNQSZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[Southwest]

Ok - all buttoned up and running smooth. Feeling pretty accomplished.

This is the amount of $75 coolant FPIG that’s actually used. I have this leftover tube if anyone is going to try tackling this part of the job. I also have a full unopened package of this stuff I’ll probably sell somehow.

Taken before reinstalling rad.

If you use the fel-pro gasket kit, make sure you also order up the following which are not included and not listed already above by AgentMM.

9672124025​	2	$3.57​	RING (for oil filter housing)
135520S010​	1	$8.39​	GASKET(FOR CHAIN TENSIONER drivers side only needed)

90430A0001 4 $1.59 Engine Valve Cover Gasket

Valve cover spark plug tube gaskets ARE included in the pack, but coil pack seals ARENT - I didn’t replace mine since they looked good. Valve cover plug tube seals are a process. Mine were seriously in there and you need a good strategy for taking them out without damaging the sealing surface. Look at the FSM and then watch Timmy the tool man do it on a 200 series valve cover. You need to be careful - use a small screwdriver and a rubber mallet to deform the hard part of the ring at an angle and then I used a big prybar against a small block of wood. Basically a hybrid of FSM and Timmy. First one was not easy but the rest came out quick once I got a system down.

Startup was rough, definately chain slapping happening I got a P0355 code and realized I missed a coil pack plug - make sure you double and triple check when putting harnesses back on - it’s a lot to keep track of but pretty straightforward.

All the electrical (ie window controls, etc) came right back online after 1.5 months with battery disconnected.

Like I said before I was doing this when I had time - sometimes only an hour at a time on weeknights so I took my time. Take and markup detailed pictures yourself, label and number all bolts and put them in ziplocks and paper cups clearly noted and in order - this greatly helped me know what was next on reassembly.

Seems like three of us here have gone through the entire process so hopefully between us all we can help others do this job.