DIY - GX460 Valve Covers, Cam Towers, Coolant Valley and Timing Cover

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agentmm said:
Delayed response.

2 tunes. 1 is not enough and even if it was...wouldn't want to be short at the timing cover.
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I see you got the crank bolt off easily, but how was it getting the crank pulley off? Those often need a special tool.
 
agentmm said:
View attachment 3580416
Undo this bolt at the bottom of the timing cover because it will provide room to get the timing cover in and out.
View attachment 3580418
Remove these nuts and bolts to get the oil pump out of the way. It is going to come off and out of the engine bay.
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The vane pump is the power steering pump. This is a messy photo. Disco the wire. Then undo one bolt that holds a bracket to the body and twist that bracket 90 degrees because it gets the pump out and in front of the engine (which provides space to do the timing cover) then there are (2) bolts that are accessed through the pulley. NOTE WHICH ONE GOES IN WHICH HOLE FOR REASSEMBLY.
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This is the alternator. Jack up the car, remove the wheel and access some of this stuff through the wheel well. I removed the E10 bolt from the timing cover (it comes out after you remove the nut that sits on it) because it helped get the Alt down. Also, I left one of the bolts in the bottom of the alt for the duration of this job because it was easier than trying to remove it from the engine bay. Just remember it...whatever way you go.
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From underneath the car, remove this bolt to drop the wiring harness plastic harness from the timing cover.

It should be noted that our goal here is to complete all of these jobs without removing the engine and leaving the A/C condenser in place (otherwise we have to de-energize that system and I'd rather not)
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Dude, I'm stuck at the Vane Pump. I've removed the two bolts, and the darn thing won't budge. Is there something I'm missing? Even the FSM says remove the two bolts and the thing should come right out...but this thing won't move. And yes, I have the right two bolts.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
swild said:
Dude, I'm stuck at the Vane Pump. I've removed the two bolts, and the darn thing won't budge. Is there something I'm missing? Even the FSM says remove the two bolts and the thing should come right out...but this thing won't move. And yes, I have the right two bolts.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I wonder if it has something to do with this (see pic)

I can't recall, without seeing it, why you are hung up. I would just reset, spend some time looking at it/thinking about it. I bet you get it.
Screenshot_20240716_165340_Drive.webp
 
agentmm said:
I wonder if it has something to do with this (see pic)

I can't recall, without seeing it, why you are hung up. I would just reset, spend some time looking at it/thinking about it. I bet you get it.View attachment 3679030
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I figured it out before you posted; you're right; it's that dang spacer. It wasn't fully pushed in during assembly, so the timing chain cover presses on the Vane Pump, keeping it locked into that spot. By some miracle, I was able to loosen those two timing cover bolts above that area, and it loosened its grip. Some penetrating oil gave me some ability to wiggle it free, but damn, that was a beast. Thanks for your fast help!

I've got the vane pump out now, but I'm wondering where in the world you put it? I don't see it out in front of the engine. Did you tuck it down and below near the wheel well?
 
swild said:
I figured it out before you posted; you're right; it's that dang spacer. It wasn't fully pushed in during assembly, so the timing chain cover presses on the Vane Pump, keeping it locked into that spot. By some miracle, I was able to loosen those two timing cover bolts above that area, and it loosened its grip. Some penetrating oil gave me some ability to wiggle it free, but damn, that was a beast. Thanks for your fast help!

I've got the vane pump out now, but I'm wondering where in the world you put it? I don't see it out in front of the engine. Did you tuck it down and below near the wheel well?
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Ya I didn't remove it. And that's why I made the note about the small bracket there (rotated 90° or something?) Because it gives you room to get the pump off the timing cover and out of the way. But in the one picture here, you can see it above the alternator and the other pic (if I recall correctly) I used a bungee cord to hold it back...

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agentmm said:
Ya I didn't remove it. And that's why I made the note about the small bracket there (rotated 90° or something?) Because it gives you room to get the pump off the timing cover and out of the way. But in the one picture here, you can see it above the alternator and the other pic (if I recall correctly) I used a bungee cord to hold it back...

View attachment 3679050

View attachment 3679051
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Alright, I'll see if I can do the same.
By the way, what FSM are you using? I can't find that page about the Vane Pump mount you posted. Looks like you're using an app or something. I'm using the downloadable one that's posted all over the forums.
 
swild said:
Alright, I'll see if I can do the same.
By the way, what FSM are you using? I can't find that page about the Vane Pump mount you posted. Looks like you're using an app or something. I'm using the downloadable one that's posted all over the forums.
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Can try and DM you a drive link. I don't know what you got vs what I got.
 
agentmm said:
View attachment 3580432
I think this is a bolt I have noted on the A/C compressor (bottom, drivers side)
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What I mean by this picture is that the A/C compressor has 2 bolts that go into it. The bolt near my finger tips goes towards the back of the compressor. The bolt near my wrist goes at the front of the compressor.
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I removed the E8 bolt from the compressor/timing cover to release the compressor. Noted by my ratchet.
View attachment 3580443
Remove the timing cover time.
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I made a cardboard template and carefully removed all the bolts and the nut (covered by tape)
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The a/c compressor has 3 bolts and one stud with a nut.
I've got the front nut and stud out, and the bottom front bolt out, but how you get the back two bolts out is beyond me. I'm at a complete loss for how you get those out without discharging the system and removing the refrigerant pipes to get a better angle on them. Hell, I can't even see them unless I use my endoscope to see them. Any advice is welcome. Thanks.
 
swild said:
The a/c compressor has 3 bolts and one stud with a nut.
I've got the front nut and stud out, and the bottom front bolt out, but how you get the back two bolts out is beyond me. I'm at a complete loss for how you get those out without discharging the system and removing the refrigerant pipes to get a better angle on them. Hell, I can't even see them unless I use my endoscope to see them. Any advice is welcome. Thanks.
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I think it's through the wheel well. A few wobbley ends and extensions.
 
agentmm said:
View attachment 3580463
I ended up removing (2) bolts per tensioner (per side pass and driver) and yanked them out of the block so we could generate max slack in the chains.
View attachment 3580464
once I removed the tensioners...I slide the slipper out.
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You need to loosen off these (4) 17mm nuts that hold the cam gears down.
View attachment 3580466
Milestone. Timing chains off. Stoked.
View attachment 3580470
Again, we will re-time all this s*** later so pile it up and call it good.
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I'm trying like mad to compress these chain tensioners, but they aren't going in much. I can get them to extend, then I insert the allen key, but this is as far as it will compress.

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swild said:
I'm trying like mad to compress these chain tensioners, but they aren't going in much. I can get them to extend, then I insert the allen key, but this is as far as it will compress.

View attachment 3679628
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I unbolted the tensioner without worrying about that and it came right off haha
Then I played with compression/Allen key when it was on the bench...
 
agentmm said:
I unbolted the tensioner without worrying about that and it came right off haha
Then I played with compression/Allen key when it was on the bench...
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Makes sense. Hopefully it compresses more because that's not going back on there otherwise.
 
Cleaning the gasket material off the engine now where the cams go. Do you have any tips on getting it off without little bits dropping down into the basin? It's going all over the place. Did you sop up all the oil in there as well? There are tons of it just lying around near the bottom where the FIPG almost is. Kinda wondering how clean I need to get this. Are we talking pretty good or f'ing NASA clean room?
 
swild said:
Cleaning the gasket material off the engine now where the cams go. Do you have any tips on getting it off without little bits dropping down into the basin? It's going all over the place. Did you sop up all the oil in there as well? There are tons of it just lying around near the bottom where the FIPG almost is. Kinda wondering how clean I need to get this. Are we talking pretty good or f'ing NASA clean room?
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I stuffed a ton of blue paper towels down there so I could run the brass wire wheel in my drill over those surfaces. Also used some scrapers and scotchbrite pads (those are the best) pulled the blue paper towels out carefully afterwards.

You want those surfaces DEADLY clean. All this work and you have a leak in the new FIPG?

suicidal ideations ...
 
It's time to FIPG the cam towers. What do you think is the best way to do this? Should I put the FIPG on the engine block or on the cam towers? Space is tight, and I'm not sure which option will give me the best results.
 
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