DIY - GX460 Valve Covers, Cam Towers, Coolant Valley and Timing Cover (5 Viewers)

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Question...
Where's this youtube video you keep mentioning? Can you post the link to it?
Thanks!
It's at the beginning of this thread.
Or YouTube search "how to time 1urfe timing chains" or whatever gets it done. There are a couple decent ones.
 
It's at the beginning of this thread.
Or YouTube search "how to time 1urfe timing chains" or whatever gets it done. There are a couple decent ones.
Got it; I thought it was something separate.

Two more questions for you...
  1. How was it putting the timing cover back on? Is it a pain to align? I've seen specialty tools for other engines that make the mating/alignment process easier. I wish they had one for this engine. Aligning them back up is honestly the scariest part for me.
  2. Why did you take the cam towers off? Is there a real need to do this when doing the timing cover and valve cover gaskets?
 
Got it; I thought it was something separate.

Two more questions for you...
  1. How was it putting the timing cover back on? Is it a pain to align? I've seen specialty tools for other engines that make the mating/alignment process easier. I wish they had one for this engine. Aligning them back up is honestly the scariest part for me.
  2. Why did you take the cam towers off? Is there a real need to do this when doing the timing cover and valve cover gaskets?
1. The FSM wants you to smack a new crank seal into the timing cover AFTER installing said cover. I didn't do this (with the A/C condenser in the way, how was I swinging anything at a seal?)
And lining up the timing cover itself was not a big deal. Just go easy (but get it on...FIPG is setting up) and it goes into place.
I agree with you, lining up the cover looked tricky but you just gotta send it.

2. Cam towers are notorious for leaking. I certainly wouldn't do all this work and skip the cam towers even though that would save the timing chain and gear work. You're already there. Just peel the gears and chains off and remove the bolts for the cam towers. It's worth it.
 
1. The FSM wants you to smack a new crank seal into the timing cover AFTER installing said cover. I didn't do this (with the A/C condenser in the way, how was I swinging anything at a seal?)
And lining up the timing cover itself was not a big deal. Just go easy (but get it on...FIPG is setting up) and it goes into place.
I agree with you, lining up the cover looked tricky but you just gotta send it.

2. Cam towers are notorious for leaking. I certainly wouldn't do all this work and skip the cam towers even though that would save the timing chain and gear work. You're already there. Just peel the gears and chains off and remove the bolts for the cam towers. It's worth it.

Copy that.
I wonder how hard it would be to evacuate the AC system so you can remove the compressor. Maybe I can take it to an AC shop and ask them to evacuate it?
 
Copy that.
I wonder how hard it would be to evacuate the AC system so you can remove the compressor. Maybe I can take it to an AC shop and ask them to evacuate it?
You definitely can. They will take the refrigerant out of the system. Could make your install a little slicker.
 
Legendary.

I don't think I am quite at the leak level on the front cover (and no valley plate or cam tower leak) that this work is required but if it does leak I don't trust anyone else to do the work and will follow your post.
 
Great write up bud!

This should be added to a FAQ or maintenance thread index section somewhere.

So you wanna do some more of these for other owners now that you've done it and figured out the challenges involved? $4k on the barrel head?
 
Great write up bud!

This should be added to a FAQ or maintenance thread index section somewhere.

So you wanna do some more of these for other owners now that you've done it and figured out the challenges involved? $4k on the barrel head?
Maybe it will prove to be helpful to someone. Atleast a guy can reference some pics and fill in the odd gap for himself.

As for doing this job again, I'd rather not....
🫠
 
I noticed you didn't take the bumper off and remove the radiator like in this video:

In hindsight, do you think removing those would have helped? I'm looking for the smoothest install.
 
I noticed you didn't take the bumper off and remove the radiator like in this video:

In hindsight, do you think removing those would have helped? I'm looking for the smoothest install.

I removed the Rad. You have to for this job.
I did NOT remove the A/C condenser or bumper.

In retrospect, I would have de-energized the A/C so I could remove the condenser. But I don't see any real benefit to removing the bumper. You can access the Rad bolts through the bumper and everything else worked around it.

You can go either way with the A/C condenser. I felt it was OK working around it. So feel good either way.

My big impact fit on the crankshaft bolt with the condenser in place. That's all I cared about so I could spin it off without hassle.
 
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In my observations (forums, FB, etc) over the last 7 years cam tower leaks are far more prevalent for some reason on the 3UR-FE than the 1UR-FE

Cam tower is a very distant 3rd report compared to coolant valley or timing cover leak reports on the 1UR-FE in 460.
 
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I'm stocking up on parts for the job. I've already done the Coolant Valley repair last year. Are there any tools you'd recommend having for the timing chain cover and valve covers, that would make the job easier?
 
I'm stocking up on parts for the job. I've already done the Coolant Valley repair last year. Are there any tools you'd recommend having for the timing chain cover and valve covers, that would make the job easier?
Do you have a decent set of universal joints? (Wobble socket attachments)
There are some s***ty spots where you need extensions and joints for access.
I don't think it's a necessity but a low range torque wrench for those 15 ft lbs bolts.
E8 and E10 sockets to deal with a few studs along the way.
Do you have some larger wrenches for the cam shafts? Because I would be careful banging around in there with a crescent wrench or something clunky.
Compressed air. Dunno just listing stuff now.

Get a good quality silicone lube for the O rings. Oh but you did the coolant valley leak already.

Good lights. Some small picks. An extendable magnet. A dental mirror. Scotchbrite pads. Soft wire wheel for a drill to clean up faces. FIPG.

You get it
 
Do you have a decent set of universal joints? (Wobble socket attachments)
There are some s***ty spots where you need extensions and joints for access.
I don't think it's a necessity but a low range torque wrench for those 15 ft lbs bolts.
E8 and E10 sockets to deal with a few studs along the way.
Do you have some larger wrenches for the cam shafts? Because I would be careful banging around in there with a crescent wrench or something clunky.
Compressed air. Dunno just listing stuff now.

Get a good quality silicone lube for the O rings. Oh but you did the coolant valley leak already.

Good lights. Some small picks. An extendable magnet. A dental mirror. Scotchbrite pads. Soft wire wheel for a drill to clean up faces. FIPG.

You get it
Nice, I've got everything you mentioned. Now it's time to get some bloody knuckles.
 
Do you have a decent set of universal joints? (Wobble socket attachments)
There are some s***ty spots where you need extensions and joints for access.
I don't think it's a necessity but a low range torque wrench for those 15 ft lbs bolts.
E8 and E10 sockets to deal with a few studs along the way.
Do you have some larger wrenches for the cam shafts? Because I would be careful banging around in there with a crescent wrench or something clunky.
Compressed air. Dunno just listing stuff now.

Get a good quality silicone lube for the O rings. Oh but you did the coolant valley leak already.

Good lights. Some small picks. An extendable magnet. A dental mirror. Scotchbrite pads. Soft wire wheel for a drill to clean up faces. FIPG.

You get it
You rent all this stuff out! :rofl:
 

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