DIY Drawers (1 Viewer)

[John Mc]

We recently replaced our lx470 with a 2013 LX570. I was hoping to move our drawers from the lx470 over to the new car, but sadly the cargo space is smaller. So I built a new model. After posting pictures on the "What have you done to your 200 Series this week?" thread I was asked for details.

Supply List

1. 1/2" Sanded plywood 4x8 Three sheets $45.55 each x 3 = $133.65
2. 3/16" 2 ft. x 4 ft. Black Chalk / White Marker MDF $7.78 each x 2 = $15.56
3. HDPE Sheet, 1/4" Thickness, 2 ft x 4 ft $29.13 each x 1 = $29.13
4. N1883 Single Point Latch $24.09 each x 2 = $48.18
5. 1" x 2" Pine 8ft $7.68 each x 2 = 15.36
6. Gloss Tan 1-Car Garage Floor Coating $99.98 each x 1 = $99.98 (this is enough to paint 3 systems but must all be used if opened)
7. Black spray paint $5.98 each x 4 = $23.92
8. Magnetic Catch for table $5.98 each x 1 = $5.98
9. 1/2" Black Nipple $0.99 each x 2 = $1.98
10. 3/4" EMT $9.98 each x 2 = $19.96
11. 1/2" iron flange $2.04 each x 4 = $8.16
12. Rubber feet $4.47 each x 1 = $4.47
13. Contact cement $22.98 each x 1 = $22.98
14. Turnbuckles $9.00 each x 2 = $18.00
15. 1" angle iron (Latch catch. I used 3/4 and works but had to use a 1/4" spacer.)
16. Screws wood (Assorted sizes. I used up screws from past projects)
17. Wood Glue
18. Wood Puddy
19. Brad nails (optional can be put together with screws only)
20. Carpet scraps (used on the bottom of the drawers and two 2" x 2" squares on the back of the drawer for soft/tight close)
21. Custom hold down brackets (I'm sure something can be found off the shelf if a welder is not at your disposal. )
    ​

I'm blessed to have many tools at my disposal. There are many ways to skin a cat, but I don't know if i would attempt this project without a table saw, and router.

 

[John Mc]

I cut the 1 x 2 boards down to 1" making the table 1 1/2" thick. I used the leftover strips from these as fronts to cover the plywood edges. The HDPE is cut to 1" strips.

I used the dry erase board as the bottom of the drawer. I used contact cement to adhere. I for got to get a picture of the back of the drawer but they have to swatches of carpet stapled to the back to cushion the close and deeded any rattling noise.

 

[John Mc]

The table legs are 3/4" EMT wit 1/2" nipple welded to the end.

 

[John Mc]

Custom bracket made with 1/8 flat steal and stainless steal chain link.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Well done sir!

Love the table idea, might steal this ides for mine!

 

[linuxgod]

Very nice.

My DIY drawer has a table which sits below my drawer, which has the benefit of allowing me to slide the table part way out and have the tailgate support it. My table is just an extra piece of plywood I sealed with some clearcoat... nothing fancy like yours.

 

[DallasTide]

Very nice.

My DIY drawer has a table which sits below my drawer, which has the benefit of allowing me to slide the table part way out and have the tailgate support it. My table is just an extra piece of plywood I sealed with some clearcoat... nothing fancy like yours.

View attachment 3734916

That looks great. I'm planning on doing a half drawer setup like you have here to preserve one 3rd row seat. Assuming you have someone riding in that seat on road trips, how do you ensure cargo won't fall on them?

 

[linuxgod]

That looks great. I'm planning on doing a half drawer setup like you have here to preserve one 3rd row seat. Assuming you have someone riding in that seat on road trips, how do you ensure cargo won't fall on them?

We mainly use the 3rd row on shorter trips without much cargo now. I did use some bungee cords, which works but is a PITA.

I now have a Kaon divider bolted to the drawer and to their (removable) "attic". For a kid the ceiling attic is OK, but for a larger kid or adult it would be in the way. It does ensure the dog stays in the back if he rides with us though. I replaced all of Kaon's regular bolts with thumb screws or knobs so that I can remove the whole thing in about 5 minutes. Reinstallation takes a couple extra minutes because the two knobs which hold the attic 3rd row grab handles are semi-hard to align.

Right now I have it set up for overlanding, since my daughter went to college and I rarely need the 3rd row seat. The fridge slide sits on a separate platform and is fairly easily removed with 4 bolts, and I could put the 3rd row passenger's side seat back if I need it. Removing that right section and reinstalling the seat is probably a 15 minute affair.

As you can tell I'm a fan of making things modular.

 

[linuxgod]

View attachment 3734228

Are you planning to leave the 3rd row seats in when you have the drawers installed? Doesn't seem like there's a huge advantage to doing so since you can't use them. They take up a surprising amount of space.

 

[John Mc]

I miss the older design for quick removal and installation of the seats on the 80 and 100 series. But yes, during MTB season the seats we will be removed. But off season or during the holidays with family in town I wanted to be able to switch back and forth. My wife and I can remove the system within a couple of minutes. We leave drawers fully loaded and ready to go for the next adventure. Removing the seats makes little difference in the overall width. The wheel arches and seats are almost the similar widths. I probably could have made it 39.5"-40" wide with out the seats, but opted to make it 38 3/4" so we can make a quick change. My old box was 44" wide and fits nicely in my 80 and the 100.

 

[Itsky]

Nice build - love it!