ARCHIVE DIY Cat Skid Plate

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Thank you all for the support to create this product. The first 8 sold and I created a new thread formally listing this product for sale.
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With the proliferation of cat thievery, it may be a good time to make a skid plate to protect the cats. Thought about buying, but most places are either very $$$, out of stock, or (more likely) both. So, DIY it is.

I had a professional company prepare a redlined picture of what I'm thinking.
1648332946917.png

Skid plate in the yellow rectangular area, roughly. Primary consideration would be to keep it a bit more narrow than the full width of the frame rails so that it doesn't interfere with the U-bolts that secure my sliders. I could cut around them, but it doesn't seem necessary to add the extra step.
Bolt holes circled in red. The holes on the existing OEM skid plate will line up with existing holes on that skid plate, but the ones on the cross member would need to be cut.


It doesn't seem too difficult after a quick cardboard mock-up. Might not even need to bend the metal at all. A rectangular piece with some bolt holes may just do the trick.

Two questions for people more experienced than me...
  1. Is it a bad idea to drill holes through the cross member for this? The holes would be on the pinch welded part, as shown in the red circles.
  2. Is the area highlighted in yellow sufficient to protect the cats, or might we need something on the other side of the cross member as well? I looked at that side and it would be pretty easy to make two small plates for either side, but I'm not convinced it would be necessary. No thief would go for it if they can't make a cut on both ends.

Any advice is appreciated.
 
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With the proliferation of cat thievery, it may be a good time to make a skid plate to protect the cats. Thought about buying, but most places are either very $$$, out of stock, or (more likely) both. So, DIY it is.

I had a professional company prepare a redlined picture of what I'm thinking.
View attachment 2963323
Skid plate in the yellow rectangular area, roughly. Primary consideration would be to keep it a bit more narrow than the full width of the frame rails so that it doesn't interfere with the U-bolts that secure my sliders. I could cut around them, but it doesn't seem necessary to add the extra step.
Bolt holes circled in red. The holes on the existing OEM skid plate will line up with existing holes on that skid plate, but the ones on the cross member would need to be cut.


It doesn't seem too difficult after a quick cardboard mock-up. Might not even need to bend the metal at all. A rectangular piece with some bolt holes may just do the trick.

Two questions for people more experienced than me...
  1. Is it a bad idea to drill holes through the cross member for this? The holes would be on the pinch welded part, as shown in the red circles.
  2. Is the area highlighted in yellow sufficient to protect the cats, or might we need something on the other side of the cross member as well? I looked at that side and it would be pretty easy to make two small plates for either side, but I'm not convinced it would be necessary. No thief would go for it if they can't make a cut on both ends.

Any advice is appreciated.

Interested, especially with three 100 series in the driveway, and being local to you, but would a custom “one off” be price competitive with something like an Asfir ~$250, even with the ~$150 shipping from Israel?

With Dissent putting the “pause” on their skid plates, and Slee being hit or miss as to whether their “belly plate” is in stock and available, I’m half tempted to try an Asfir “kit”, as much for catalytic converter protection as trail protection.
 
Interested, especially with three 100 series in the driveway, and being local to you, but would a custom “one off” be price competitive with something like an Asfir ~$250, even with the ~$150 shipping from Israel?

With Dissent putting the “pause” on their skid plates, and Slee being hit or miss as to whether their “belly plate” is in stock and available, I’m half tempted to try an Asfir “kit”, as much for catalytic converter protection as trail protection.

I've unfortunately given up hope that Dissent will offer us anything outside of bumpers in the foreseeable future.

I've had an Asfir center skid in my cart for months now but I'm hesitant as it looks as if it would severely restrict airflow (there must be a reason why that area is wide open from the factory, IMO). I'm concerned that would at a minimum shorten catalytic converter life and possibly exacerbate fuel evap issues.

The Slee belly plate looks well thought out. It's not cheap and super heavy at 110lbs but it does replace the factory cross member so the net gain would be slightly less. You do have to loose the frame weight(s) which I've got a problem with, lol. It's also not a straight bolt on.

There is no perfect solution :bang:
 
That's going to be a pain to get to your trans fluid drain hole unless you leave a nice big cutout for it.

I seem to remember someone who made a cage of sorts for their cat welded out of bent rebar. Something to think about.

Btw these huge skid plates tend to cause the cats to heat up that area more. I can't say i noticed it but the floor boards could get hotter and it could theoretically make you more susceptible to the overheating and boiling fuel issue that some of us have in really hot weather
 
I've unfortunately given up hope that Dissent will offer us anything outside of bumpers in the foreseeable future.

I've had an Asfir center skid in my cart for months now but I'm hesitant as it looks as if it would severely restrict airflow (there must be a reason why that area is wide open from the factory, IMO). I'm concerned that would at a minimum shorten catalytic converter life and possibly exacerbate fuel evap issues.

The Slee belly plate looks well thought out. It's not cheap and super heavy at 110lbs but it does replace the factory cross member so the net gain would be slightly less. You do have to loose the frame weight(s) which I've got a problem with, lol. It's also not a straight bolt on.

There is no perfect solution :bang:
I have the Slee Skid plate and it is not perfect. The trans fluid drains into the skid plate so i have to funnel it overthe edge to get it to drain into my catch bucket. I change trans fluid at every engine oil change so it happens a lot. I also don't like that it replaces the stock cross member. If you have to drop it for any reason, it gets much more complicated, having to support the transmission with a jack while you lower that monster without getting squished.

From a design perspective, i like the bump it off road( BIOR)skid. Not sure if he still makes it but his design has better access for all fluid draining needs, and it mounts over the stock cross member, kind of straddling it.
 
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Mike at BIO isn't current taking orders (March 2022). His website notes that he is trying to get caught up on orders for a bit.
 
Have and use the Slee belly pan—I'm sure it does in fact restrict air, but it didn't make any evap issues worse. It only covers the back half of the cats. I've also run the full set of Slee...with the same results. No issues at all, other than being a pain in the ass to take on or off.

Form-a-Funnel for tcase fluid changes: Amazon product ASIN B017MTFIYE. Just did that job yesterday. The transmission pan is wide open with just the belly pan.

I don't think you'll have any issues with the plan as outlined, OP.
 
I've had an Asfir center skid in my cart for months now but I'm hesitant as it looks as if it would severely restrict airflow (there must be a reason why that area is wide open from the factory, IMO). I'm concerned that would at a minimum shorten catalytic converter life and possibly exacerbate fuel evap issues.

Nah, not from my own experience with them.
 
I;ve been wanting to do something like this, with a peice of stainless. Trouble is, I cannot find a reasonably priced piece of material. This is the closest I've found, but too small. Once I find a source for the material, it should be easy to make and offer a decent level of protection.
Pros: Fairly low cost compared to ASFIR skids, easy to make/install, lightweight, stainless
Cons: Another piece to remove for maintenance jobs, doesn't offer that much protection. The best you can do is hope the cat theifs just move onto an easier target

27EC69CF-0BF1-4209-9F39-76FB5FAB17ED.jpeg
 
I like your idea, do it!

Drilling the holes will not weaken anything, I'd use security head bolts as Flintknapper suggested in a previous thread. Keeping the sides open would help with heat, as well as be easier to make.
 
I;ve been wanting to do something like this, with a peice of stainless. Trouble is, I cannot find a reasonably priced piece of material. This is the closest I've found, but too small. Once I find a source for the material, it should be easy to make and offer a decent level of protection.
Pros: Fairly low cost compared to ASFIR skids, easy to make/install, lightweight, stainless
Cons: Another piece to remove for maintenance jobs, doesn't offer that much protection. The best you can do is hope the cat theifs just move onto an easier target

View attachment 2964706
This is sold in the project section of my local metal distributor in 4x4 sheets; around $60 last month when I looked (but at it for a different project).
 
Went to a local metal shop for basic quotes. I think 34"x17" should be sufficient.
1/4" 5052 aluminum = $122 + tax
1/4" hot rolled steel = $114 + tax
3/16" hot rolled steel = $84 + tax

@excessive good thought on that material. I'll check the local metal supplier for options. Only concern is how to secure it.

I feel like it's too easy to get carried away with this. It can quickly become very expensive at which point you may as well get a nice product like ASFIR offers. Found myself looking at a plasma cutter to make some air flow slits. Could just use a grinder but it wouldn't be pretty. Also can get carried away with material. If the goal is a high quality skid plate then thicker metal and more finesse on air flow and design. But for a goal of cat protection, why not just keep it thinner and simpler.

Ordered a nutsert tool. Planning to just get a 17"x34" piece of 3/16" hot rolled steel. Drill some holes in the cross member. Drill some holes in the skid plate. Install M8x1.25 nutserts. Then you could use security head bolts or just use the same bolts used for the factor skid plates (I always have extras around, so it would be nice to have interchangable bolts). Hoping to put together a prototype this week.
 
While thinner materials might not be good for flying rock protection - In my limited experience, thin steel plate does not like to be cut by reciprocating saw blades. The plate often just shakes back and forth with the saw blade - which I think would irritate thieves. Aluminum is much easier to cut (but it can gum up the teeth depending on the blade}. I'd vote for thin steel over aluminum. Should be cheaper too. In other words - I think even 1/8 inch steel plate would be plenty thick.
 
Went to a local metal shop for basic quotes. I think 34"x17" should be sufficient.
1/4" 5052 aluminum = $122 + tax
1/4" hot rolled steel = $114 + tax
3/16" hot rolled steel = $84 + tax

@excessive good thought on that material. I'll check the local metal supplier for options. Only concern is how to secure it.

I feel like it's too easy to get carried away with this. It can quickly become very expensive at which point you may as well get a nice product like ASFIR offers. Found myself looking at a plasma cutter to make some air flow slits. Could just use a grinder but it wouldn't be pretty. Also can get carried away with material. If the goal is a high quality skid plate then thicker metal and more finesse on air flow and design. But for a goal of cat protection, why not just keep it thinner and simpler.

Ordered a nutsert tool. Planning to just get a 17"x34" piece of 3/16" hot rolled steel. Drill some holes in the cross member. Drill some holes in the skid plate. Install M8x1.25 nutserts. Then you could use security head bolts or just use the same bolts used for the factor skid plates (I always have extras around, so it would be nice to have interchangable bolts). Hoping to put together a prototype this week.


I'm currently in a different state than my rig so I can't measure myself, but if you could share a quick sketch with dimension and hole/slit locations I could draw it up and get some quotes for laser cut in various materials through work. Can also do some fun stuff like powder coating. A friend just caught someone under his truck so I'm looking to get something in production asap.
 
I'm currently in a different state than my rig so I can't measure myself, but if you could share a quick sketch with dimension and hole/slit locations I could draw it up and get some quotes for laser cut in various materials through work. Can also do some fun stuff like powder coating. A friend just caught someone under his truck so I'm looking to get something in production asap.
Nice! I’ll make a prototype and get measurements for bolt holes figured out then send it your way.
 
Go for it.
I made my own transfer case skid plate using the existing threaded hones on the crossmembers.
Bolts are easy to source.
I drilled 2" holes for draining water and mud.
I went into DIY route being that the CAD to USD $ conversion rate + shipping kills us up here in Canada
 
You can also try SendCutSend, especially helpful if you’ve got a few more than qty:1. Maybe get a price and start a group buy?

yeah I was planning on price shopping my local guy with SendCutSend as well. Recently used them on a couple projects. Incredible service

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