shipmag
Hagler Technology LLC. Aka Shipmag
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Distributor Tech - '75 through '77 Conversion to Electronic Ignition Using Toyota/NipponDenso Parts
- Thread starter 4Cruisers
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It's great for me to see this. I converted my 77 distributor to electronic in the 90's with ignition parts I got out of an 80''Cressida. It looks just like the ones you guys are showing here under the cap. Works like a charm and hasn't skipped a beat. But over the years I lost the adjustment, not to mention I had to replace the vacuum pot a couple of years ago. So, I'm not sure I have the proper vac advance curve anymore. How many degrees pf vacuum advance should I have? I never touched the advance weights, so I know the mech advance is ok.
Thanks 4cruisers. I'm not sure exactly what part you refer to as the "advancer". A while back I had a dead vacuum diaphragm, and I could not find the exact replacement. So, the next best thing was a version that has an adjustment knob designed to stick out of the distributor body. I reluctantly machined it to accept that part, and it's been working fine. I just am not sure the travel is adjusted correctly to give me the amount of "vacuum advance" in degrees. That's all I was asking about. How many degrees should I have from no vacuum to full vacuum?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
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- #25
This is how I set mine up (remember I don't have the adjusting knob):
1) I make sure that the line between the centerline of the post on the breaker plate and the center of the distributor shaft is perpendicular to the axis of the advancer actuating rod (in your case, the rod with the adjusting knob) when a "spoke" of the cam is lined up with the contact in the signal generator and the rotor is pointing to a plug wire terminal in the distributor cap. Of course, if your rotor isn't lined up with a plug wire when the signal generator tells the igniter to fire you won't get a spark. That way the distributor is ready to set base timing (with the vacuum hose disconnected from the nipple on the advancer). The photos in my previous posts show this base timing configuration. I have to do this because in many cases I don't have access to the particular distributor the upgrade parts will be installed into.
You should be able to ensure the rotor is pointing to a plug wire terminal when a "spoke" of the cam is lined up with the contact in the signal generator by using the adjusting knob. I suspect that's what you've done, otherwise you wouldn't be getting spark to the plugs.
2) I adjust the two locking nuts on the advancer actuating rod so that the maximum travel is limited to about 3.8 mm. That's equivalent to about 10 degrees maximum distributor vacuum advance.
The advancer is the unit with the vacuum diaphragm. There should be a NipponDenso part number stamped into the outside end of the advancer (029450-xxxx). I have plotted the advance curves for a number of Toyota advancers. If you can find and post the number from your advancer maybe I can match it to one that I've measured, and I can get you the advance curve.
Hope this helps.
1) I make sure that the line between the centerline of the post on the breaker plate and the center of the distributor shaft is perpendicular to the axis of the advancer actuating rod (in your case, the rod with the adjusting knob) when a "spoke" of the cam is lined up with the contact in the signal generator and the rotor is pointing to a plug wire terminal in the distributor cap. Of course, if your rotor isn't lined up with a plug wire when the signal generator tells the igniter to fire you won't get a spark. That way the distributor is ready to set base timing (with the vacuum hose disconnected from the nipple on the advancer). The photos in my previous posts show this base timing configuration. I have to do this because in many cases I don't have access to the particular distributor the upgrade parts will be installed into.
You should be able to ensure the rotor is pointing to a plug wire terminal when a "spoke" of the cam is lined up with the contact in the signal generator by using the adjusting knob. I suspect that's what you've done, otherwise you wouldn't be getting spark to the plugs.
2) I adjust the two locking nuts on the advancer actuating rod so that the maximum travel is limited to about 3.8 mm. That's equivalent to about 10 degrees maximum distributor vacuum advance.
The advancer is the unit with the vacuum diaphragm. There should be a NipponDenso part number stamped into the outside end of the advancer (029450-xxxx). I have plotted the advance curves for a number of Toyota advancers. If you can find and post the number from your advancer maybe I can match it to one that I've measured, and I can get you the advance curve.
Hope this helps.
Thanks man. A lot of good info there. Should cover it.
I've never rotated the knob on the new distributor which I installed. I was under the impression that the knob was an octane-adjustment feature? Like if you are forced to use low-octane gas, then Toyota has an option for 'winging-it' by rotating the knob.
The way it looks from the photo, the knob adjusts static timing, even though it is connected to the vacuum pot shaft. It simply moves the breaker plate back and forth for octane-adjustments to overall timing, but within a range that doesn't affect the degrees of breaker-plate rotation performed by the vacuum pot during vacuum advance. (Centrifugal / mechanical advance is performed on the spindle holding the rotor.)
So, all that is needed from a timing adjustment is to begin with the octane-adjusting knob set to a neutral position, and then setting the engine's idle (or lean-drop) so that the throttle plate on the carburetor is not pulling vacuum thru the line to the distributor's advancer / vacuum pot, and finally setting static-timing on the distributor. Correct?
The way it looks from the photo, the knob adjusts static timing, even though it is connected to the vacuum pot shaft. It simply moves the breaker plate back and forth for octane-adjustments to overall timing, but within a range that doesn't affect the degrees of breaker-plate rotation performed by the vacuum pot during vacuum advance. (Centrifugal / mechanical advance is performed on the spindle holding the rotor.)
So, all that is needed from a timing adjustment is to begin with the octane-adjusting knob set to a neutral position, and then setting the engine's idle (or lean-drop) so that the throttle plate on the carburetor is not pulling vacuum thru the line to the distributor's advancer / vacuum pot, and finally setting static-timing on the distributor. Correct?
That little knob, the octane adjuster, adjusts the timing in very small increments. Which I forget how much, like 10 full rotations of the knob advances or retards timing 1 degree or something sorta similar. You set your timing in your usual way and use the knob for fine tuning to your current altitude or octane without getting a wrench out.
I'm not sure about driving around the block and checking for ping, but...
From the F-manual. There are 720 degrees of crank angle for every rotation of the distributor, right?
From the F-manual. There are 720 degrees of crank angle for every rotation of the distributor, right?
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@4Cruisers are you selling your upgraded/modified distributors? I'm looking for a distributor that will match my Non-USA Carb/De-Smogged/High Performance Cam setup. Right now I'm pinging off the mechanical advance with the overall timing set at 12 degrees. I was going to go 19100-61180 and a ballast resistor to at least match the carb to the distributor, but keeping the electronic ignition would be nice. Any help would be much appreciated.
It's a '78 FJ55 with built 2F(Custom domed pistons, Delta Cam). I'm not sure what ignitor and distributor are currently in it, it came modified when I purchased the 55 years ago. I can grab part numbers if that helps. From what I can tell it's a 60 series ignitor with small cap electronic distributor, distributor has 2 port vacuum canister.
Thanks
Scott
There were a couple issues with my current setup, first was the pinging, I don't believe the mechanical advance that is in my current distributor is correct for the setup I have, it would probably need recurved. I did some testing to verify that, I removed the vacuum advance to take that out of the equation, but I still get the ping. Secondly I have an issue of spiking RPM's. I see it in both my timing light and my tach that I have hooked up. it will randomly spike and stumble. I'm guessing there must be something that isn't functioning correctly within the distributor itself. By using the parts from my current setup I'd assume the mechanical advance would remain the same as I currently have, is that correct?
Thanks
Scott
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4Cruisers
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- #37
On my past 19100-61180 conversions I've used the advancer from the new distributor. The mechanical advance mechanism would also be new. The '78 cam can be cleaned up to like-new condition. I've used both new aftermarket and good used Toyota signal generators. You'd basically have a new distributor that would be compatible in all respects to your current igniter.
Nice, that sounds like a perfect setup. What would you need from me to get this going? I'd prefer to keep it Toyota so a toyota signal generator is what i'd choose.
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I could pick one up from CruiserTEQ, but they are a little more expensive compared to CityRacerLLC, but he's out of stock until the first of the year. Amayama has them available, but I don't want to wait until the end of November for it to arrive. If you have other options I'm all ears.
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