Distributor problems (1 Viewer)

[magFJ60]

Having issues getting my 1985 FJ60 to start. I had problems in 2019 with spongy breaks so I replaced the brake booster in Sept that year with great results. I was driving it weekly and then one day in Oct 2019 it just wouldn't start. I wasn't getting a spark and due to work and other developments I didn't figure out the issue until early this year. That's when I found out the distributor cap was not completely sealed and there was rust on the inside of the distributor.

I messaged @4Cruisers and got a rebuilt distributor with new cap. I subsequently removed the old distributor and replaced it with the new one, careful to get the same orientation WRT teeth and oil pump drive. New one went in great, the 60 cranked and ran, but it was incredibly rough. I thought I had almost solved the problem so I did more research and maybe my timing is just off. Got under the cruiser, turned the flywheel to the TDC line showing in the window, and confirmed the #1 cylinder was at the top of the stroke. Removed the distributor and reinstalled according to the following:

- Turned the slot for the oil pump drive to point at #5 spark plug in the block
- Inserted the distributor with the rotor pointing at #4 spark plug in the block (#1 point on the distributor cap), vacuum canister facing front of the cruiser
- Gear seated, and rotor rotated back towards #5 spark plug
- Distributor seated the whole way down to the block, engaging the oil pump slot

Went to start it and it won't turn over. Cranks strong, new charged battery, just won't run - not even rough like it did when I first installed the new distributor. So I tried bumping it in gear and still no luck. Thought maybe I was still off on timing so I put it in neutral and turned the flywheel back to TDC. When I took off the distributor cap, it was pointing to #6 on the cap (I think this is odd, but I'm definitely not an expert here). After removing and reinstalling the distributor per the process outlined above, I get the same results - not turning over. I subsequently had my assistant (wife) crank the cruiser while I confirmed spark at #1, and during this heard what sounded like a quick hiss of air (almost like an electrical pop) and noticed what appeared to be a puff of air coming from somewhere on the driver's side of the carb (shooting out away from the carb). Can't confirm exactly where that came from so it could have been a hose near there as well. Checked all hoses and everything was secure...

So I'm stumped as to why I can't get it to run right now, even as rough as it did when I initially replaced the distributor. Open to any suggestions, thoughts, criticism, whatever...

Additional info in case it helps with a diagnosis:

- 1985 FJ60, original 2F with 240k miles
- Drained old fuel before installing the new distributor, replaced with fresh ethanol free before starting the first time with the new distributor
- Fuel continues to be visible in the carb window
- Getting sparks on #1 (haven't tried the others, but relatively new wires and brand new spark plugs gapped same as #1)
- Air filter is clean, no apparent obstruction to air flow

 

[4runner2FJ60]

SO there are alot of threads on Mud about this.....sometimes I find it easier to search thru google with key words like fj60 distributor, ih8mud.....
I have done ALOT of stuff to my cruiser since purchase and I will tell you one of the MOST difficult things was getting the dizzy installed correctly.
I couldn't tell if you installed the new one and just ran it, or if you installed the new one and immediately adjusted the timing as required?

You might have just needed that. It took me three times to get my rebuilt one set right. I would start all over. Pull it out. Confirm TDC on the compression stroke!
you can plug #1 with your thumb. Have someone crank SLOW burst, and you will know you are there when your thumb gets blown off the hole. Then fine tune with the mark on the flywheel. You are looking for the line on it.
You can also confirm that you see the piston top thru the #1 hole.
I had to alter the FSM directions slightly to get mine set. The oil pump slot (for me) needed to be at 90 degrees to the engine block (perpendicular) centered between #3 & #4. the dizzy rotor needs to be pointing roughly at #3 when you start. When you get it fully seated it will point at #4 ish.....NOT #5.
CONFIRM it is all the way down, then put the bolt in and try centering it in the hole, then start her up and get out your timing light.
It helps to put white paint on the timing BB before setting the timing. Hope this helps.
Mine was 180 degrees off, on the wrong stroke, then a few teeth off when rotated it........it wouldn't start at all in either case.

 

[OSS]

That little explosion puff you heard in the cab on the passenger side was an explosion inside the distributor cap. Likely the distributor venting plumbing isn't working correctly.

As much as you've tried to clock the distributor correctly, it's really easy to get it wrong unless you like thinking about these things while falling to sleep.

To rule out a simple orientation misalignment, you can move all your spark plug wires on the distributor cap one terminal over, then try to start it. If it's still dead, move them all again in the same direction one more terminal over. Then try starting again. Eventually when the wires are aligned with the correct terminals (which wouldn't correspond with the numbers stamped on the cap if the distributor was inserted incorrectly) the engine should start.

If after trying to start it changing wires 6 times and still nothing — then it's not a distributor alignment problem.
Next suspects would be the coil and igniter.

 

[MoaByte]

These guys^^^ are probably right. Not to confuse you but I put my HEI in 180° off and did the same for the plug wires on the cap. Runs great. I don't think you can do that with stock
Rotor should point to #4 when completely stabbed, keep trying. I'm wondering about why your dizzy was rusted if the vent on the cap is routed correctly. Maybe it pulling fumes from the charcoal canister? Also, don't trust old gas.

 

[Seth S]

Another good check is to set the flywheel to TDCF and check the rotor orientation with the cap off. Then rotate the engine 360 degrees and make s the rotor comes back to the same position. This is just to rule out a gear issue on the distributor. I don't think this is your problem but if somehow the drive gear was the wrong one and has the wrong teeth count your timing position will be forever changing....so its just a quick piece of mind check.

 

[2mbb]

From the OPs oringinal statement "Got under the cruiser, turned the flywheel to the TDC line showing in the window, and confirmed the #1 cylinder was at the top of the stroke." it is not guaranteed the engine is at top dead center on the compression stroke. In a four stroke engine the piston will be at TDC at the end of the compression and exhaust strokes. Flip a coin. It doesn't always come up heads. Since the engine won't run now, I think the distributor was installed the second time with the crankshaft needing to be rotated another 360degrees. I suppose the first time the new distributor was installed it was just off a tooth or two. This is why it ran then and doesn't really run now.

The easiest thing to do is remove the #1 spark plug and hold your thumb over the hole while turning the engine by hand in the normal direction of rotation. If you remove all the spark plugs you should be able to put a socket or wrench on the alternator pulley bolt and turn pulley/engine clockwise. As the #1 cylinder comes up to TDC on the compression stroke your thumb should feel air being pushed out. Stop rotating when the TDC line on the flywheel aligns with the pointer. Remove the distributor and repeat your procedure for installing it.

Good luck.

 

[magFJ60]

Appreciate all the input. Spent a while working on it this morning and I think everyone was right in some way. Rotated spark plug wires and actually got it stumbling. Reset TDC ensuring it pushed air on #1 and reinstalled distributor. Didn't have time to set timing but it ran well enough to roughly idle. I loosened the bolt and idling got better as I rotated the distributor but I maxed it out before it ran smooth. Could I still be off a tooth?

Also confirmed the puff of air came from around the exhaust manifold...now I've got a new issue to
troubleshoot and resolve.

I'm wondering about why your dizzy was rusted if the vent on the cap is routed correctly. Maybe it pulling fumes from the charcoal canister? Also, don't trust old gas.

99% sure vacuum lines are correct as I spent a day redoing them with new hoses in the past. I did discover that the old cap had a small crack on the back near the base that I couldn't see. Assuming that let enough moisture in over time and corroded the original distributor plates. I'm surprised it worked as long as it did.

 

[MoaByte]

Appreciate all the input. Spent a while working on it this morning and I think everyone was right in some way. Rotated spark plug wires and actually got it stumbling. Reset TDC ensuring it pushed air on #1 and reinstalled distributor. Didn't have time to set timing but it ran well enough to roughly idle. I loosened the bolt and idling got better as I rotated the distributor but I maxed it out before it ran smooth. Could I still be off a tooth?

Also confirmed the puff of air came from around the exhaust manifold...now I've got a new issue to
troubleshoot and resolve.



99% sure vacuum lines are correct as I spent a day redoing them with new hoses in the past. I did discover that the old cap had a small crack on the back near the base that I couldn't see. Assuming that let enough moisture in over time and corroded the original distributor plates. I'm surprised it worked as long as it did.

I'd set it on the BB at 700 rpm vac disconnected with a timing light then try to figure out why it running rough. So many things in the smog system that could be contributing.