Distributor Installation Problems

[snailwagon]

All right, I'm at wits end this evening so I need some mud assistance. Motor is a very fresh F, besides weber jetting, the motor runs awesome.

Currently the engine had a brand new 2F distributor, year unknown but it is a vac. retard model, small cap. So I thought a vac. advance distributor that I had would be better and went to install that. After installation, the engine would not run. I did not turn the engine between installation.

After an hour, I said screw it, and reinstalled the 2F distributor. Now I can start the engine, but it will not run without throttle. If you advance the crap out of the thing, you can get it to idle at as low as an F engine will idle (200rpm, maybe at most?). However, it is completely undriveable now.

This is what I did:

1. bump truck backwards until at the TDC mark on the flywheel
2. pull off the valve cover and make sure the first two valves have a little wiggle (assuming this is the compression stroke TDC)
3. Point oil pump slot towards cyl. 4.
4. Postition distributor and install so rotor points just a little to the left of cyl 4, or #1 on the distributor cap.

So what could I have done wrong? I obviously messed something up, but I now have no clue what. The timing is wayyyy off, or at least it runs that way. I'd would love any and all suggestions so I can get this thing to Pismo shortly.

Is it possible that I am just installing it 180 degrees off, over and over? Would that even run. What else could I have possibly done.

Thanks,

Jesse

 

[Pin_Head]

So what is the problem? You can't turn it enough to get the timing right? If so, just move it over a tooth or two.

 

[snailwagon]

With the distributor aligned where it should be, the engine will not run. It ran fine today until I messed with it, and now when assembled the same way, it no longer runs. I kept trying to put it back to where it was earlier, but to no avail. It is at the same tooth as it was before. It didn't seem like there was any timing point that made it run well.

I'll try moving it a tooth each way tomorrow and see if that helps.

Quick question, to determine the compression stroke TDC, is checking for wiggle in rocker arms accurate?

Also, if it was 180 out of phase, would it even be able to run at all?

 

[Pin_Head]

Don't guess. Static time it. Put it on the 7 degree BTDC mark then turn the distributor clockwise (retart). Turn on the ignition key, put the center wire next to a ground and advance the distributor slowly just until it sparks. (You can also use a test light on the - post of the coil to tell when the points open as the light will come on.)

 

[65swb45]

Quick question, to determine the compression stroke TDC, is checking for wiggle in rocker arms accurate?

For compression stroke on #1, 1,2,3,5,7,9 should all wiggle.

Sounds like you hit all the basics. Time to look for an electrical gremlin. Perhaps one of the wires got internally damaged from swapping back and forth. Try a jump wire from batt to coil+ and a fresh wire from coil- to dizzy.

See you Friday.

 

[Pighead]

Yes, triple check that you ARE at TDC #1...sounds like you're off

I hear they will run 180 out, but I've never tried it.

 

[snailwagon]

ENgine is at TDC #1, and I got it timed to 7 degrees. AT this timing, it will run a little bit. It will barely hold an idle and is not driveable.

Also, now the engine smokes pretty good, burning oil. The engine never burned oil before, not even a puff after sitting for a while. All the spark plugs were super fouled, especially #6, which was even a tiny wet with oil when I checked it this morning before starting..

There is a pertronix unit in it right now, so I need to now test that, the wires, and the coil. The truck has to be running well today, or else no pismo, so expect multiple questions from me today.

I had some new NGK v plugs and some good plug wires, so I swapped those in this morning for s***s and giggles. Easier than cleaning fouled plugs. Cap, rotor, etc, is all brand new.

 

[snailwagon]

So I messed with the thing a bunch, and it runs, but not great. Idle sucks and is rough and erratic. To get it to idle, the idle screw on the carb is turned in more than it should be (band aid). However, it runs great at mid to high rpm and has plenty of power and no hesitation on the start.

Runs better slightly advanced (at 9 degrees now), and after trying a non-usa distributor with new points and condenser, and a new vac retard dizzy, I stuck with the vac retard with pertronix.

I shoved a high voltage coil on and opened the plugs to 0.045", changed a questionable plug wire, and now it runs better, but still like crap. On my weber 38 DGAS, I was running 0.060 low speed jets, with about 2 turns out per screw. Now, the same jets, only 3/4 turn out per screw? Not sure why everything changed so much but it did. It will run crappy but is going to Pismo anyways. Free Oatmeal Stout to anyone at pismo that can make it run better. You can chase it with tequila if you would like.

 

[Pin_Head]

It doesn't sound like an ignition problem. Did you do anything else besides the distributor swap?

 

[65swb45]

So I messed with the thing a bunch, and it runs, but not great. Idle sucks and is rough and erratic. To get it to idle, the idle screw on the carb is turned in more than it should be (band aid). However, it runs great at mid to high rpm and has plenty of power and no hesitation on the start.

Runs better slightly advanced (at 9 degrees now), and after trying a non-usa distributor with new points and condenser, and a new vac retard dizzy, I stuck with the vac retard with pertronix.

I shoved a high voltage coil on and opened the plugs to 0.045", changed a questionable plug wire, and now it runs better, but still like crap. On my weber 38 DGAS, I was running 0.060 low speed jets, with about 2 turns out per screw. Now, the same jets, only 3/4 turn out per screw? Not sure why everything changed so much but it did. It will run crappy but is going to Pismo anyways. Free Oatmeal Stout to anyone at pismo that can make it run better. You can chase it with tequila if you would like.

You're on! Bring the other dizzies and your timing light! I will vouch for the FACT that your microbrew is worth it!

 

[snailwagon]

And to top it off, I went to adjust my valves this morning and destroyed the valve cover gasket, which I cannot get anywhere nearby without ordering.

So, I completely rigged up a 2F gasket into a F valve cover, lets see if it works. Pismo is only a 5 hour drive, so I should be cool.