Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX) (1 Viewer)

[radman]

And on the 17th day, there was light.

 

[CharlieS]

With all that bumper beef, it's time for some proper skid plates.

 

[grinchy]

Tc front and belly would slide right in there...

 

[tbisaacs]

I remember when my LX was that shiny

 

[tbisaacs]

@radman you got us idiots over here thinking we can do this install ourselves. Kudos to you for such a helpful thread.

 

[HGB]

Do you have any use for the chrome rear bumper trim? Mine is pretty scratched up.

Here's all the scraps (except the resonator... not worthy of being called a scrap). Any of this worth keeping?


Also, if you're not using a $19 harbor freight oscillating tool with an upgraded $10 blade you're doing it wrong (check out some of the thin cuts). It's pretty much like butter... melting a bit as it cuts.


DEWALT Oscillating Tool Blade for Wood with Nails, Wide, Titanium (DWA4204)

Amazon product ASIN B00FMHPOVQ






View attachment 2342427

 

[radman]

Few questions:
1) anyone know what this sensor is? I found reference to it in the FSM, but no name or function.

2) thoughts on putting the trans cooler shroud back?

 

[grinchy]

That sensor in the rear is the backup sensor consolidator.

 

[radman]

I've had numerous request on the cutting technique.
Nice blade will cut/melt with very little force. I don't plunge all the way in with the leading end, but the back will finish the cut. All the final cuts were made like this with the panels on the rig.

(Filmed by a 5 year old)

 

[radman]

Managed to get most of the trans cooler shroud in, routed the winch power, and zip tied all them wires. Front is dun!

 

[grinchy]

So I guess this means you haven't given up and aren't shipping that front up to me after all? Darn.

 

[radman]

So I guess this means you haven't given up and aren't shipping that front up to me after all? Darn.

I made real instructions, and added a draft version to the first post in this thread. Now there's no reason for you not to get your own

 

[1world1love]

Looking great! Almost done with the project and you got your kids doing video work too. Nice!

 

[radman]

Wired up the rear lights! Almost used @grinchy-meister's junction box method, but then decided to just tap in and call it a day. Found some sweet low-heat solder/ shrunk connectors that are a lot thinner than regular butt crimping. Also had some 5 strand solid sprinkler wire on hand and figured that if it was good enough for direct burial, it would do fine hidden in a bumper.

The lights didn't come with a wiring diagram (or the kids lost it) so it took a hot minute to decode them.

Here's the stock wires you'll need:
White = ground
Blue = brake
Yellow = reverse
Green = taillights (Running lights)


Here's the wiring for the new lights:

Left light
White - Ground
Black - Reverse
Red - Brake
Brown - Tail/ Running
Yellow - Turn

Right side
White - Ground
Black - Reverse
Red - Brake
Brown - Tail/ Running
Green - Turn

Unfortunately, the turn wires can't be tapped from the trailer harness since those are designed for a single brake light that flash for turning. A single wire will be pulled from each tail light down to the exposed wire, then properly connected.



Orbit 57094 5Strd 50' Sprinkler Wire, 50 Feet
Amazon product ASIN B00004S1V1
TICONN 150 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated

Amazon product ASIN B07HCNTZ2Z

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Here's a diagram for the RoadVision LEDs and the 200 trailer plug wiring diagram.

J

 

[m4hk33]

Thanks to @benc for fabbing up his wicked design for the 200, entrusting me with a self-install, and for answering a ton of my silly questions.

Mad props to @1world1love for sending me countless reference pictures and measurements!

I'll be back to add a ton more details, but for now, I'm going to blow through and get these puppies mounted.

@radman

Very nice work. Appreciate the install details. I have a couple questions.

Could you give a rough estimate on how many hours that you put into your front and rear bumper install project. I am looking at picking up a 570 sometime in the next 6 months and given that I work in the Middle East, I am not sure how much time I am going to have the next time I am back in the States.

Also, I really like the way that your wheels/tires look with those bumpers, did you do any in regards to suspension/AHC and what size tires are you running.

Very Impressive work

 

[ohsix]

I made real instructions, and added a draft version to the first post in this thread. Now there's no reason for you not to get your own

That's one of the best write ups I've seen. Will the rear bumper instructions be added?

Ben just emailed me that my rear bumper is shipping today. I can't wait!

It looks like you had your bumpers painted before trying to install. I was contemplating mounting the rear bumper bare then removing for paint so I don't damage the paint figuring everything out. In hindsight, do you think it's worth taking this approach or just having the bumper(s) painted in advance?

 

[radman]

That's one of the best write ups I've seen. Will the rear bumper instructions be added?

Ben just emailed me that my rear bumper is shipping today. I can't wait!

It looks like you had your bumpers painted before trying to install. I was contemplating mounting the rear bumper bare then removing for paint so I don't damage the paint figuring everything out. In hindsight, do you think it's worth taking this approach or just having the bumper(s) painted in advance?

I'm still working on the rear instructions, but I'll post up a pdf of what I have tonight. I don't see a reason to mount it up before you get it powder coated... there won't be any metal work that would get damaged.

You could start calling powder shops to get quotes. The rear should cost $300-400 for prep, prime, and powder.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[ohsix]

I'm still working on the rear instructions, but I'll post up a pdf of what I have tonight. I don't see a reason to mount it up before you get it powder coated... there won't be any metal work that would get damaged.

You could start calling powder shops to get quotes. The rear should cost $300-400 for prep, prime, and powder.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks! Based on your experience, I'll just have it painted before checking fit.

I'm planning on having it painted to match my vehicle. I don't know if it's just the powder coater I used, but I had some bumpers powder coated to match a white vehicle and the whites didn't match very well. I'm leary of trying to get a metallic silver matched with powder, so I'm planning to just go with paint.

I'm not in a big hurry for the instructions since paint will probably take a while after I receive the bumper.

 

[radman]

Sonar surgery:
On my '15, the parking sensors are almost a straight fit into the Dissent holes, so I had to use a Harbor Freight Step bit to go bigger. 13/16" was the exact size that worked for me. Ben suggested not forcing the sensors in if the hole is too tight because that can cause malfunctions or false objects.
I also cut off the sensors factory clips and small plastic aligner to make them perfectly round.