I am in the middle of painting my wheels, and as i removed the front tires i noticed that my pads are stuck to the rotor. Cylinders do look old. But don't think that is causing the pads to stick, i apparently have been driving like this for a while. When the wheel is in the air i am able to spin it freely, so the pad is stuck with force just rubbing, anyway to adjust this thanks.
Discs stuck to rotor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter badass
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Disc brake pads should always touch the rotor - this is what keeps the discs clean and functional even after water crossings. If you can spin the wheel freely it sounds like everything is just as it should be.
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ok good, here's the other question, when i try to lock my brakes, i think only my rear right wheel locks, what could cause this, do i need to bleed the brakes, adjust the drums? The front disks do not lock up at all. Could that be caused by air in the system or the old cylinders? I know these are vague questions, but i appreaciate answers because this is a first for me.
Could it be your right rear has something wrong with it? I would pull rear drums and check for any oil seal leaks prior to adjusting them.. Sometimes oil on the shoes could swell them leading to possible lock-ups.
If rears check out ok, and the front pads have plenty left on them, do a 4 wheel bleed and recheck.
I'm not sure if I'd want my fronts touchy enough to notice any lock-up under normal driving conditions. Any chance on being a little more thorough with "how" they are acting, fronts and rear?
If rears check out ok, and the front pads have plenty left on them, do a 4 wheel bleed and recheck.
I'm not sure if I'd want my fronts touchy enough to notice any lock-up under normal driving conditions. Any chance on being a little more thorough with "how" they are acting, fronts and rear?
I got the same set up and the rears will due diff stuff depending on which is wet, which one has a cyl. leakin, or is outa adjust. I find the drums to lock at diff times depending on tire pressure. The drums seem to be pickier about equal pressure.
I actually have that exact same problem with my 40, wheel cylinders are all new and adjusted , drums are fine but that dang rear right wheel locks up when I get on the brakes hard. Still scratching my head on this one.
My experience with both a '79 BJ40 and a '76 FJ40 is that if you have drums you will have one rear brake work more effectively than the other. I found it was not always the same side, and it doesn't matter if you have the two-slave-cylinder type without the rear brake e-brake or the one-slave-cylinder type with the built-in e-brake. It also doesn't seem to matter if the shoes are new and correctly adjusted and the cylinders clean and working properly or not.
