Discreet 40" LED Lightbar on Factory Roof Rack

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Warmed up enough today to try alignment and there must be variances in the years. I have a ‘14 and had to open up both sets of holes to 1/4”. Couldn’t get them to align still so opened up the rear hole in the bracket to 5/16” and the spread is still off. Don’t want to enlarge the hole anymore due to the potential for up and down play once attached. Any thoughts on the best way to slot the rear hole to get the needed spread besides a hand file?

Yes, some of the holes may need to be drilled slightly larger. Consider them guide holes. It's weird that on some applications they work fine as is, other needs to be drilled a little bit larger. I think someone mentioned this some pages back too.
 
My holes a tiny bit small, easy drill press work. These need a finish yes?

I have my rack apart right now, can I put these on after the bars are inserted? The little wedges will rethread, right? Just curious if I need to keep the rear covers off for a bit.

It looks like it'll work, but you know what they say about appearances.
 
My holes a tiny bit small, easy drill press work. These need a finish yes?

I have my rack apart right now, can I put these on after the bars are inserted? The little wedges will rethread, right? Just curious if I need to keep the rear covers off for a bit.

It looks like it'll work, but you know what they say about appearances.

Yes, I would finish (even though they are stainless), and yes, they will fit after with the bars in place! 👍
 
Super. Light ordered, plates drilled. I’ll slap some color on there tomorrow. Maybe red.
 
Awesome member produced product!!! Thanks, WildYOats.

I installed mine today. They fit great. I bored the mounting holes to 9/32" which worked great.

I messed up the mounting position for the lightbar, but ended up slotting them with a rat tail file to get the mounting height where I wanted it. I found that 3/4" from the top of the mounting flange made for an ideal location. Maybe 5/8" would be better, but this height clears the roof.

I also used a 40" black oak light bar - it fit like it was made to go here. I did add a thick (maybe 1/16") washer between the lightbar and the mount, but that was the extent of modification. It may have worked fine without it, but I like things to be as close to perfect as possible.

The guys at black oak upgraded me to a 5watt setup for a marginal $$ increase, since they had it in stock (vs the 3 watt version I ordered). It is incredibly bright!

I was able to fit the 16ga wires under the rack stanchion and under the windshield trim. Fair warning, I damaged my windshield trim to get to where I wanted to be ($100 later...) Once removed, there is plenty of room to fit two wires under the white plastic clips. Amazingly, I didn't damage any of the mounting clips - good trim tools help. A new windshield side trim is on order.

One whiny comment, drilling through that stainless is a b!7(@!

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Thanks for the channel pics @CharlieS Could it fit a 14, two 16 and a 12? And what could one do to prevent breaking the trim?
 
Thanks for the channel pics @CharlieS Could it fit a 14, two 16 and a 12? And what could one do to prevent breaking the trim?
I think you'd find it challenging to fit that many wires in the channel.

The trim is soft aluminum under rubber, and I think it'd take a skilled hand to remove it without bending. Mine had an excess of window mastic that made it stick more than desirable. Without that, you may be able to pry it up carefully, starting from the top edge.

If I weren't so ocd, I could reinstall what I removed, but it is definitely worse for the wear.

I can see why others have just used silicone or RTV to adhere wires to the groove in the trim channel, it is definitely an easier way to go. I prefer the more stealthy approach of hiding them under the trim, for better or worse.
 
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I think you'd find it challenging to fit that many wires in the channel.

The trim is soft aluminum under rubber, and I think it'd take a skilled hand to remove it without bending. Mine had an excess of window mastic that made it stick more than desirable. Without that, you may be able to pry it up carefully, starting from the top edge.

If I weren't so ocd, I could reinstall what I removed, but it is definitely worse for the wear.

I can see why others have just used silicone or RTV to adhere wires to the groove in the trim channel, it is definitely an easier way to go. I prefer the more stealthy approach of hiding them under the trim, for better or worse.

looks fantastic. Nice work brah!
 
Planning on doing the same setup. Can anyone share if these mounts will fit on a 2019 LX? Or are the roof rails vastly different
 
Yes, some of the holes may need to be drilled slightly larger. Consider them guide holes. It's weird that on some applications they work fine as is, other needs to be drilled a little bit larger. I think someone mentioned this some pages back too.
I bored mine out to 9/32nds and that worked great without any slotting on my 2013.

Also, if you are using the black oak 40" single bar, the mounting holes shouldn't be any lower than 3/4" from the top edge of the mount (maybe even a hair higher), otherwise you may get roof contact at the middle of the lightbar.
 
Planning on doing the same setup. Can anyone share if these mounts will fit on a 2019 LX? Or are the roof rails vastly different
The rails are different I believe. The 2019 LX has Shiny clamp rails, right? And this uses the screw holes in the channel rails clamps. I haven't personally looked at the rails in the 3rd gen LX . . .
 
The rails are different I believe. The 2019 LX has Shiny clamp rails, right? And this uses the screw holes in the channel rails clamps. I haven't personally looked at the rails in the 3rd gen LX . . .

Pic attached. There are some threaded holes spaced out along the inside edge. Rail width is 45 inches, measured just behind the sunroof

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I'm 99% sure, these brackets won't work in that application (without modification).

I'm sure you can make some that work. I have a local body shop/metal shop that does this kind of work for a reasonable price. I just bring them a cardboard template and tell them the material and thickness I want and they make it.
 
For those going down the scene lighting route. This from the internet site "sciencealert".
"According to the results, by far the worst option for outdoor lighting was traditional incandescent bulbs, while the best (and least appealing to insects) was a warm coloured LED light - those are the LEDs that produce a yellow/orange hue, rather than cool blue light."
 
Pic attached. There are some threaded holes spaced out along the inside edge. Rail width is 45 inches, measured just behind the sunroof

View attachment 2258773
Spend some time at a site like this and I'm sure you'll be able to piece together the clamps necessary for the rails

 
Awesome member produced product!!! Thanks, WildYOats.

I installed mine today. They fit great. I bored the mounting holes to 9/32" which worked great.

I messed up the mounting position for the lightbar, but ended up slotting them with a rat tail file to get the mounting height where I wanted it. I found that 3/4" from the top of the mounting flange made for an ideal location. Maybe 5/8" would be better, but this height clears the roof.

I also used a 40" black oak light bar - it fit like it was made to go here. I did add a thick (maybe 1/16") washer between the lightbar and the mount, but that was the extent of modification. It may have worked fine without it, but I like things to be as close to perfect as possible.

The guys at black oak upgraded me to a 5watt setup for a marginal $$ increase, since they had it in stock (vs the 3 watt version I ordered). It is incredibly bright!

I was able to fit the 16ga wires under the rack stanchion and under the windshield trim. Fair warning, I damaged my windshield trim to get to where I wanted to be ($100 later...) Once removed, there is plenty of room to fit two wires under the white plastic clips. Amazingly, I didn't damage any of the mounting clips - good trim tools help. A new windshield side trim is on order.

One whiny comment, drilling through that stainless is a b!7(@!

I replaced the trim and the white plastic clips. I had to destructively remove the old clips. The new trim snapped right in and fit like a glove. Although I didn't damage the old clips when I removed the trim, I decided that I didn't want to risk an installation problem over the few bucks the four clips cost. Here are the part numbers in case someone needs them in the future:
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Beautiful craftsmanship. Love how low profile it is. Any chance i could buy some brackets off you? To fit 2009 LX570.
 
Used the video linked in this thread to get in and out with no broken windshield trim clips or bending. Able to reuse everything.

Put in two of these silicone jacketed 12 gauge.

Was a tight fit at the last clip at top of windshield.

Used zip ties to attach in the gutter. The wire wouldn't quite fit beside the gutter clips and I didn't love the idea of bathing it in rtv.

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