Dillema! What engine should I put in my LV?

[mallred]

That's kinda exactly what I'm thinking. I don't think I will be doing that little extra pod that is hanging down with the gauges and cd player. That's where my vintage AC is going

I see in that pic they have a different column. The wife and I were just discussing key location last night. I know for sure that I am going to be ordering a 30" Ididit column with tilt, cruiser and the dimmer in the signal lever. I just can't decide yet if I want the key in the column or the dash. I ordered an ididit column for my 77 FJ40 and got the key in the column, really like it, but 77's had it in the column stock.

Matt

What, how and Where is a Idiot column?? Any links??

Thanks, Myrle

 

[buckroseau]

What, how and Where is a Idiot column?? Any links??

Thanks, Myrle

This is an IDIDIT column - Tilt, steel, cruise control, dimmer in signal switch.

http://www.ididit.com/

I used one on my 77 FJ40 resto that I finished last year.

http://www.crustycruisers.com/matt.htm

Very nice stuff!!

Matt

 

[Mikesta]

I have come to terms that the condition of this rig deserves a Complete 100% Restoration, which means that The original F engine will be rebuilt and be put back in its original place. With the dealer options this truck came with, it is not a good one to tweak. I will need another one for this purpose.. of a 45 swb.

With this in mind, I need to farm out my original motor rebuild. Does anyone locally (seattle/portland) rebuild these babies?

 

[rick_d]

mike-

you do understand by restoring it to original 1960's condition, there is a much small market for this truck if ever you decide to resell. Costs will be very expensive for the gain.

run the numbers..

TLC (J Ward) can sell one or two with their marketing, but the average "joe" will never recover when restoring a 4wd as evidenced by those buying TLC trucks and trying to resell on their own and numerous other LC restorers who have lost money. I would add with US labor costs where they are now, virtually every detail from powdercoating & paint and body to machineshop time you cannot win. Ehsan in Pakistan can afford to spend 160 hours redoing the sheetmetal on a 1966, that in the US will be 500x more expensive.

I would build what you want and what you would want to drive whether it be Sundays in the summers or 1,600 miles one way to run Cruise Moab and back.

Personally, I don't have time or desire for a truck that cannot take me 500 miles out of town and back without a second thought. 1966 technology can never insure that.

rick

 

[Mikesta]

I want the pipe dream... dont pull me back down to reality!

"grin"

 

[dieseldog]

I want a Lifetime truck. I agree with the reliability issue, etc. I would never discourage someone from rebuilding to as close to original as possible--with the caveats that you will NEVER get your money back. It has to be a labor of love and it has to be FOR YOU. If it is for you, then you already know what you want, you just have to admit it to yourself and not worry about what others will think of the truck when it's done. They aren't the owner/caretaker. For me it's a diesel. For others it might be going Chevy. For you, it might be old school stock F. Just git 'er done.

 

[Mikesta]

Body Lift Project

Well today, was a great day... spent quality time with my wife and boy.. and even had time to start a project.

This project will enable me to lift my body off my truck (in my garage!).

Unfortunatly, I cannot post pics as I am at my limit, but here is the link

Here is the write up: (pictures in the link above)

While my wonderful wife and I were looking for hard wood floors for our kitchen remodel, we stopped into a hard core salvage hardware store downtown Seattle. $78 later I have the needed parts to do this project. (1.) 150 ft of nylon rope at 7 cents a foot, (2.) 2 Eyebolts with 4 washers and 2 nuts, (3.) 2 single block and tackle pulleys and 1 double. (4.) 2 5ft 4x4's sitting in the barn at home.
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The reason for 5ft of 4x4 is to ensure that this board will be sharing the weight over 3 of my 2x6 truss studs above the drywall. First drill a hole, in my case the hole needed to be 1/3 inch. Then test fit the bolt through the wood. There is nothing worse than going into a 2.5' high attic and having to redrill in 110 degree weather. It is always safe to cut a few smaller 2x4's into 5" sections and drill those as spacers if needed.
-
Around 6 Months ago I upgraded my Breaker from 100amps to 200 and in the process moved the weather mast to the outside of the roof line... so I had a spot with no drywall that I could test this on... this picture gives you the jist of how this idea will play out
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After 20 minutes of wedging 2 4x4 5' planks in a 1 ft high space in 110 Degree weather, the job is done. I used a heavy duty washer above the 4x4, which sits on top of at least 3 beams, then screwed in the nut until my wife said it was flush. This was probably the worst part of this LV restoration project. I sweated for 30 minutes after and went through a half gallon of water... Clean and ready to do the job.
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You can now see that the tackle and the distance from the top of the truck to the tackle, it will be close, but I think I only need a foot to clear the frame..I will update this when I find out. That's it.. This will allow me to remove the body, roll out the frame, set the body down and get to work on the frame... it will also allow me to set up a porch swing in my garage! Comment on this in the Forum.

 

[Mikesta]

What is the process of getting a Thread title changed?

Thanks

 

[65swb45]

Personally, I don't have time or desire for a truck that cannot take me 500 miles out of town and back without a second thought. 1966 technology can never insure that.

rick

I've been up WAY TOO LONG to read thru this whole thread, but couldn't go to sleep without responding to this slur. My 68 F engine has run me 2600+ miles to Katemcy Texas and back this year, as well as 1500+ to Moab and back. My 65 F engine just ran me 600 miles to Death Valley, Johnson Valley and back.
As I was driving the 65 home from work tonight, I passed 3 newish cars on the side of the road with their flashers on and smiled to myself.

There is no such thing as a sure bet, but a properly built F IS NO COMPROMISE!

All that said, I'd put a 2F in an LV just cause of the weight.

Good night.

 

[IDave]

When I bought it, I hopped in and drove my '64 with it's original engine the 600 miles home first thing, without checking anything but the oil. Did fine, too.

 

[rick_d]

there are F engines and Pre F (aka siamese port).

I'd advise all to do some independant research, but my studies found siamese port engines fail at the crank 100x more often than any other F series. rods #5 & 6 tend to be the killers.

I would not chance it.

 

[mallred]

Siamese port ?

there are F engines and Pre F (aka siamese port).

I'd advise all to do some independant research, but my studies found siamese port engines fail at the crank 100x more often than any other F series. rods #5 & 6 tend to be the killers.

I would not chance it.

Whst is a saimese port ?

 

[rick_d]

siamese port pre F's have cast iron intake manifold (normally 1 bbl, a 2bbl from firetruck version exists). the porting into the valves is shared coming and going. Made to very early 1968, obvious in all older trucks FJ25-FJ40/5.
go to SOR and look at pics if you need to.

 

[cruiser_guy]

The discussion on whether or not to use the "F" or "2F" are valid. The older engines are certainly easier to diagnose and fix without all the pollution control stuff so I'd tend to lean towards them.

For me though, I'm firmly in the diesel camp. Cheap fuel, great mileage and the ability to utilize WVO or other bio-fuels at some point in the future. I can deal with the slight loss of instant get up for the long term benefits of diesel. If I can find a decent "B" series diesel that's what my FJ45LV will be using. My order of preference will be 13B-T, 13-B with aftermarket turbo, 11B with aftermarket turbo, 3B with aftermarket turbo and then a 3B.

 

[mallred]

siamese port pre F's have cast iron intake manifold (normally 1 bbl, a 2bbl from firetruck version exists). the porting into the valves is shared coming and going. Made to very early 1968, obvious in all older trucks FJ25-FJ40/5.
go to SOR and look at pics if you need to.

Thanks for the clarifacation. This must be what I had in the 63swb. I was thinking of using the old 1 bbl from it and after looking at the manifold and round holes on the head I see it must be as you describe.


Is there a intake manifold I can use so I can use the 1 BBL?

Thanks Myrle

 

[Mikesta]

Im almost possitive, Im going diesel

Well after alot of consideration and 2 minutes of thinking, I think I'm going diesel... dont know yet (finances ya know), but before I make the decision need to estimate the cost. I want to get a good diesel if Im going to get one... a neighbor of mine just got a truck that is programmable.. ie 50, 100,150 horse power... Idealy would like to find one of these that is totalled out, pull the engine and harness out and adapt it to the lv... get some LED brake lights etc... but we will see.

Im starting a new thread for my project here... will be posting updates as I do them. You can always view the project at www.fjtoys.com/project along with my other projects... I think I have over 200-300 pics up now so far.

Thanks for voting on the engine thread... Diesel will last along time as well as be more mileage efficient.

Cheers
Mikesta

 

[Mikesta]

what about this engine? yea? Nay.. .to heavy?

thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7974463365&category=33615

 

[1FE pig]

I would love to pull the rat out of the Lv for one of those!But it needs a NV5600 not a auto.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Its gonna cost you a couple mroe bucks, but the 1HZ in our customers FJ45 fits perfect and is exactly the right weight.

In the long run the little more yo speend will save you lots of install time, its well worth the money.

Rob

 

[Mikesta]

What do 1HZ's come out of? FZJ80's? how much HP do these have?