canadian bum
SILVER Star
With white smoke don't forget coolant or water entering the cumbustion chamber. Most likely threw a blown head gasket but can also be a cracked liner/cylinder or head.
Diesel smoke questions? Read this first!
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With white smoke don't forget coolant or water entering the cumbustion chamber. Most likely threw a blown head gasket but can also be a cracked liner/cylinder or head.
From 'The Diesel Engine Reference Book (2nd Edition)'
Part IV, chapter 18
Exhaust smoke, measurement, and regulation.
Part IV, chapter 18
Exhaust smoke, measurement, and regulation.
Just bought a BJ70, here is what was wrong:
Bad engine vibration on compression - ie. take foot off throttle, WHITE/Blue smoke on compression, bad smell like diesel but very rich. Rough engine running with eratic idle, idle would take a few seconds to come down. No black smoke.
Solution: New injection pump diaphram. Truck runs great now. No white/Blue smoke, no vibration, had to adjust idle and it is steady at all times.
Bad engine vibration on compression - ie. take foot off throttle, WHITE/Blue smoke on compression, bad smell like diesel but very rich. Rough engine running with eratic idle, idle would take a few seconds to come down. No black smoke.
Solution: New injection pump diaphram. Truck runs great now. No white/Blue smoke, no vibration, had to adjust idle and it is steady at all times.
Smoke
I just went on a 26 hour trip and ended up sleeping in my HD81 , it was cold so I left the engine running all night ( ~ 7 hrs ) when I got out for a nature call, I was surprised to see the amount of blue smoke comeing from the exaust. I upped the idle a little after that and the smoke all but disapeared, I agree with those that say these diesels dont like to rev low in the cold. As for black smoke, mine gives a good shot of black every time its throtled medium hard until the turbo kicks in good. Plan to tune that down a bit later.
I just went on a 26 hour trip and ended up sleeping in my HD81 , it was cold so I left the engine running all night ( ~ 7 hrs ) when I got out for a nature call, I was surprised to see the amount of blue smoke comeing from the exaust. I upped the idle a little after that and the smoke all but disapeared, I agree with those that say these diesels dont like to rev low in the cold. As for black smoke, mine gives a good shot of black every time its throtled medium hard until the turbo kicks in good. Plan to tune that down a bit later.
Running for extended time on low idle is a great way to glaze your cylinders. When I drove MCIs we use to idle up for any stop longer than 5 minutes.
Guys, diesels can idle for years. I had a BJ60 with the 3B, it came from the arctic and ran for almost 8 years straight with regular oil changes. The hardest part is keeping them warm in that environment. That truck had 360k kms on it last time I heard. Was always a strong runner.
I'd never worry about idling my cruiser.
I'd never worry about idling my cruiser.
"add one teaspoon of abrasive cleaner"
Man that's insane. I am sure my cylinders were glazed when i first got my truck. Three years and nearly 100,000 kms later, the power is better and I have less oil consumption. I attribute that to lots of hwy travel at 110 kms/hr. The oil consumption is funny. It only starts at about 3,000 kms after an oil change. I'm not sure why. I'm guessing it is because of more soot suspended in the oil.
If idling, I set the idle-up to about 1400 rpm. If you want some load, turn on the AC.
Yes I have read the post over quickly, my understanding is that glazing is what happens during improper break in procedures, if not properly broken in you will end up with glazed walls and oil consumption.
When I idle my truck I always idle high and so do guys up north - a low idle is not good and won't keep the engine warm. I also idle the fire trucks at high idle but that is for the alternator and lights as you mentioned.
Go to just about any truck stop and you will see truck idling for hours over night - nothing new there.
Maybe we should follow the mine truck method of break in, here it is:
From the first time you start the truck put it in 4 low and put the pedal to the floor and hold it there until the shift is over, then the next guy takes it and does the same thing. Do this for 10,000 hours and then rebuild. Or, in my engines case, 4200 hours of combined max RPM and long periods of idling, 24 hours a day 5-7 days a week. Change oil regularly.
I just checked my compression again about 30 minutes ago, all 6 cylinders are 600-620psi each. Not bad for idling all it's life
Regards,
Louis
When I idle my truck I always idle high and so do guys up north - a low idle is not good and won't keep the engine warm. I also idle the fire trucks at high idle but that is for the alternator and lights as you mentioned.
Go to just about any truck stop and you will see truck idling for hours over night - nothing new there.
Maybe we should follow the mine truck method of break in, here it is:
From the first time you start the truck put it in 4 low and put the pedal to the floor and hold it there until the shift is over, then the next guy takes it and does the same thing. Do this for 10,000 hours and then rebuild. Or, in my engines case, 4200 hours of combined max RPM and long periods of idling, 24 hours a day 5-7 days a week. Change oil regularly.
I just checked my compression again about 30 minutes ago, all 6 cylinders are 600-620psi each. Not bad for idling all it's life
Regards,
Louis
One thing that I will mention is that my new BJ70 I just bought, it was a one owner with 269,000kms on it. This guy brought it in every 5000kms to toyota for regular maintenance, if it needed something he got it, probably if it didnt he got it just because they told him to. Everything is very tight and mechanically it is great - except the blow-by. This old fella never had the truck over 100kms/hr and he only drove it about 10-15 mins to work every day in a 40-60kms/hr zone. So - it was never properly broken in and I suspect the walls are glazed.
I have been checking for oil consumption but all seems well for now. Will drive it like he did for a while and then slowly build up to the way I drive and see if that helps.
Louis
I have been checking for oil consumption but all seems well for now. Will drive it like he did for a while and then slowly build up to the way I drive and see if that helps.
Louis
canadian bum
SILVER Star
Yes I have read the post over quickly, my understanding is that glazing is what happens during improper break in procedures, if not properly broken in you will end up with glazed walls and oil consumption.
When I idle my truck I always idle high and so do guys up north - a low idle is not good and won't keep the engine warm. I also idle the fire trucks at high idle but that is for the alternator and lights as you mentioned.
Go to just about any truck stop and you will see truck idling for hours over night - nothing new there.
Maybe we should follow the mine truck method of break in, here it is:
From the first time you start the truck put it in 4 low and put the pedal to the floor and hold it there until the shift is over, then the next guy takes it and does the same thing. Do this for 10,000 hours and then rebuild. Or, in my engines case, 4200 hours of combined max RPM and long periods of idling, 24 hours a day 5-7 days a week. Change oil regularly.
I just checked my compression again about 30 minutes ago, all 6 cylinders are 600-620psi each. Not bad for idling all it's life
Regards,
Louis
Those engines are on a high idle. When we say idling is bad for the engine we mean the lowest RPM the engine will run is bad for long periods of time. Engines on high idle can idle for very long periods of time.
Louis, lets take the new 70 out with some bigger tires and see if we can get the " glaze " out LOL ! I think it needs a work out...
the only time i notice smoke is when i turn the key, then there is a small black poof of smoke, going down the highway there seems to be no smoke not even when i kick down on the auto tranny.
If it's set-up right, a turbo usually means no (black) smoke regardless of how heavy your right foot is. NA, I can always make smoke, especially when people are tailgating me.
I haven't had a problem with my old truck idling for long periods.
I use a air compressor mounted to the engine for long periods for work. It can sometimes run all day at idle in the Australian outback.
The old truck has done 490k with out any major work. It burns less oil than the newer rigs.
I use it for heavy towing most days of the week.
I use a air compressor mounted to the engine for long periods for work. It can sometimes run all day at idle in the Australian outback.
The old truck has done 490k with out any major work. It burns less oil than the newer rigs.
I use it for heavy towing most days of the week.
That would help prevent any glazing buildup from low idling.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I have seen many vehicles (petrol & diesel) that have been driven by the 'old boygirl' that have not seen anything more than 2500-3000 rpm during years of ownership. Along comes the new owner and gives it a good thrashing 'just to loosen it up' only to find that a couple of thousand miles down the road and the engine starts to burn oil and even start running rough.
Think of the wear ridge at the top of the bore where the top ring stops, after many thousands of miles this ridge can be quite pronounced, so when the new owner starts using high revs the rotating mass actually stretches and can cause the top ring to hit this ridge and chip of the moly coating, sometimes scoring the bore or even breaking the ring, a worse case scenario I have seen was the top ring crushing the upper ring land of the second ring preventing any movement/expansion and eventually leaving the engine down on power and running as rough as a bears a*se.
If you have such a motor you should build the rev higher over quite a few thousand miles to allow the wear ridge to be softened.
regards
Dave
