Did I say cracked? (pics.)

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Joined
Jul 11, 2010
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10
Messages
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Location
calgary ab
Well I noticed a small crack in the frame when I was greasing the front end.


I was driving it everyday, no noticable problems. :doh:


I have started the repair. At least there is no need to drill a hole at the end of the crack!:grinpimp:


I 'm going to box the inside, and a scab plate on the outside.

should I plate the bottom? Or just weld the perches to the frame as it is?



(6011 rods)
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I would fully box the frame, and the open end of the frame. Also may be a good time to do a shackle reversal. Just my 2 cents.
 
I would fully box the frame, and the open end of the frame. Also may be a good time to do a shackle reversal. Just my 2 cents.

With the shackles moved to the opposite end of the springs, hitting a bump compresses the "slip joints" (ie. compresses the splined joints in the propeller shafts). And when they are filled with grease, this tends to actually RAM the output flanges into the transfer case.

As a brief hijack ... what do you do to guard against this problem when you perform a shackle reversal? (Or am I missing something?)

:cheers:

PS. I admit that I'm a fan of keeping things ex-factory and I've always wondered about this.

PPS. (Normally hitting a bump e-x-t-e-n-d-s the slipjoints.)
 
I'm curios about that to, would different driveshafts be used?

Grease certainly can't be compressed and AFAIK the only way out is along the splines.

So I guess you may be OK (with a shackle-reversal) if you have very worn splines :lol:

:beer:

PS. I know grease tends to stop my slipjoints from compressing because the only way I can lever my pinion flanges apart (to disconnect a driveshaft) is to remove the grease nipple/zerk first to allow the grease to escape.
 
If i were you i would call Luke at 4x4 labs hes sell reenforcement plates as if you were doing a saginaw steering kit ill post pics.
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If i were you i would call Luke at 4x4 labs hes sell reenforcement plates as if you were doing a saginaw steering kit ill post pics.

Best to install a "cutout" in a plate like that to keep the original VIN details visible (unless the vehicle is to be off-road-only and not road-legal).

If done properly it wouldn't significantly compromise the strength.

(Just my 2c.)
 
I hope I can answer properly. To avoid impacting the t case flanges. Use appropriate amounts of grease, in attempt to keep from overfilling the slip and creating a situation where the grease can be compressed, resulting in impacted flanges.
Also shackle reversal aids in crawling over objects. The axle can move back and over the object. When the shackle is up front the axle has a tendency to push the vehicle away from the object, instead of moving the axle back and over.
 
... To avoid impacting the t case flanges. Use appropriate amounts of grease, in attempt to keep from overfilling the slip and creating a situation where the grease can be compressed, resulting in impacted flanges......

Risky IMO!

I just pump 1 sqirt of grease into that nipple (compared to pumping until I see fresh grease escaping) ... yet I still manage to end up with them being full.

I think it would be wise to drill a "pressure release hole" (say 3/16" and centred) behind the universal joint (or something like that).
 
Best to install a "cutout" in a plate like that to keep the original VIN details visible (unless the vehicle is to be off-road-only and not road-legal).

If done properly it wouldn't significantly compromise the strength.

(Just my 2c.)

Yeah, I tacked on a plate last night, with a vin cutout.

It only goes to the first crossmember.

I'll post pics later tonight
 
My old f150 had a relief hole on the end of the slip. I could tell when I'd flexed up a lot because of all the grease on the u joint. I think the hole was little though like 1/8".
 
Risky IMO!

I just pump 1 sqirt of grease into that nipple (compared to pumping until I see fresh grease escaping) ... yet I still manage to end up with them being full.

I think it would be wise to drill a "pressure release hole" (say 3/16" and centred) behind the universal joint (or something like that).

Just call High Angle Driveline, they will hook you up with the proper shaft for a SR. However breakout the checkbook, as it ain't cheap. Mine compresses nice, and has ALOT of spline for when the axle droops.

Jeremy
 
Nothing to do with the frame repair....But, the end of my stock 40 slip shafts have a freeze plug style cap in the end. It'll blow out before the driveline does any damage to your transfer case. Don't know if all 40 shafts are built this way.
 

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