Did I fry my ECU? (1 Viewer)

[r2m]

I think I just did a very costly error.
I purchased the Voltage Booster Pro and just received it via UPS. I'm looking at the instructions over and over. Note: these are the same for either the 5th Gen 4R or GX460, 2010-2019 which mine is a 2013 so I know I had the correct model/year.
For the 4R, there's a photo, but for the GX just a diagram of the fuse box. To me it looked like I needed to swap out the white 25 amp fuse. I fiddled and futzed with it for half an hour but it wouldn't fit right. Broke off one of the tangs and had to fab a new one and solder it on. Finally got it to fit and tried to start my vehicle and it would turn over and almost start but not. Kind of like not getting enough gas.
Finally did one last look at the instructions and I screwed up.
It's the red 7.5 amp fuse NOT the white 25 amp fuse is the one to swap out!
I put everything back to stock and tried to start my rig again. Nada, nothing, zip, zilch . It turns over and sounds like it wants to start, kind of like not getting enough gas, but doesn't start.

I disconnected the positive battery cable and let it sit for 30 seconds, let the system cycle through and tried to start it again. nothing.
Did disconnected again, same as above, again nothing.
I have this sick feeling I fried the ECU.

My thought is that since this is a "booster" I boosted the wrong circuit and fried something.

Any thoughts from anyone???

 

[lndshark]

Have you checked the 15A EFI fuse?

 

[r2m]

Have you checked the 15A EFI fuse?

Nope. I'll do that first thing in the morning. I'm done with it for the day...
It'd be a blessing if that's all it was, a dollar fuse!

 

[lndshark]

There's several safeguards in place to protect the ECU...EFI fuse, EFI main relay, etc. In the 70's, 80's and early 90's, ECU's were much easier to damage.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

I think I just did a very costly error.
I purchased the Voltage Booster Pro and just received it via UPS. I'm looking at the instructions over and over. Note: these are the same for either the 5th Gen 4R or GX460, 2010-2019 which mine is a 2013 so I know I had the correct model/year.
For the 4R, there's a photo, but for the GX just a diagram of the fuse box. To me it looked like I needed to swap out the white 25 amp fuse. I fiddled and futzed with it for half an hour but it wouldn't fit right. Broke off one of the tangs and had to fab a new one and solder it on. Finally got it to fit and tried to start my vehicle and it would turn over and almost start but not. Kind of like not getting enough gas.
Finally did one last look at the instructions and I screwed up.
It's the red 7.5 amp fuse NOT the white 25 amp fuse is the one to swap out!
I put everything back to stock and tried to start my rig again. Nada, nothing, zip, zilch . It turns over and sounds like it wants to start, kind of like not getting enough gas, but doesn't start.

I disconnected the positive battery cable and let it sit for 30 seconds, let the system cycle through and tried to start it again. nothing.
Did disconnected again, same as above, again nothing.
I have this sick feeling I fried the ECU.

My thought is that since this is a "booster" I boosted the wrong circuit and fried something.

Any thoughts from anyone???

I for one hope you didn't...

 

[Acrad]

If fuses check out… see what powertrain codes are now being set

 

[Acrad]

Which fuses?

 

[r2m]

Which fuses?

Thank you (wiki) Acrad. This is what I need to pull the correct fuse and check it.
Do you also believe it could be the 15A EFI fuse? Or do you have other suggestions.
Truly appreciate your input.
And not to disparage all the other suggestions, yes, I very much value all the others too!

 

[Jstawgn]

It does not increase voltage that much. And it does it by tricking alternator voltage sensing. They actually reduce the voltage being sensed and tricking the alternator to generate slightly higher voltage.

Did you check the fuse box inside the cabin too?

 

[Rednexus]

FWIW, I'm to the point where I think the voltage boosters are NOT a good idea. Mine has fried multiple aftermarket LED bulbs....battery works just the same as it did before with no discernable difference. I'm going to remove it and put it in the glovebox. If for some reason I end up with a dead AGM, I'll temporarily install it until the battery is re-charged and then remove.

Hope your ECU ends up being OK!

 

[r2m]

It does not increase voltage that much. And it does it by tricking alternator voltage sensing. They actually reduce the voltage being sensed and tricking the alternator to generate slightly higher voltage.

Did you check the fuse box inside the cabin too?

Not yet. Going to do that now.

 

[r2m]

Finished pulling EVERY freaking fuse, both under the hood and under the dash. Just found out that I'm not nearly as limber as I was in my 20's when trying to crawl upside down to access those dash fuses.
After pulling every fuse, pulled the OBDII dongle, replaced everything and tried to start it again.
It did the same thing. Pushed the starter button one more time and it started!
Now I have a KDSS and Suspension Airbag lights on. Actually the KDSS is a dash light and the Suspension Airbag is a notice in the center section where your mileage is.
Disconnected the battery again, let it sit 30 seconds, reconnected. Same thing. Maybe if I drive it a wee bit some of it will shake off?
The biggest thing is that at least it runs now!

 

[re_guderian]

At least it starts! Any codes?

 

[Acrad]

You should be able to pull codes for the Suspension code but IIRC...KDSS (10-19) you have pull with paper clip method if you don't have Techstream

••Remember OBD connector is upside down from picture

Diagnostic blink pattern of KDSS light will be number after "/" in codes listed below.

 

[r2m]

My left (tachometer) looks like the picture you posted with all the lights on, e.g. down hill assist, TPMS, etc.
Also, TPMS is not connecting to the OBDII dongle. Can't get it on my phone app, it won't connect, but the other general displays connect like rpm, engine and trans temps which is good. It doesn't look to be throwing any codes. I'll look at it again tomorrow.
Yeah, I have Techstream. Need to pull my laptop downstairs and try to remember how Techstream works again.
It's been a couple of years since I've cracked it open, Techstream, not the laptop...

 

[Acrad]

Are you getting any connectivity attaching to the other networks with OBD Link?

 

[r2m]

Are you getting any connectivity attaching to the other networks with OBD Link?

Yes, I can get the "A" with all the drive line temperatures, tachometer, etc. which is good.
Just doesn't want to read the TPMS. Hummm.
I should add that not every light is on, on the dash, just a few. It doesn't look quite as bad as the dash above.

 

[sheptastic]

I'm no EE, but I'm guessing if you installed one of those devices on another circuit it would drop the voltage, not increase it. The AGM boosters work by using a diode's internal resistance to drop the voltage on that 7.5 amp circuit causing the alternator to compensate by outputting a higher voltage. If it was installed on another circuit, it wouldn't provide feedback to the alternator to increase voltage. It's possible that the issue you have now is temporary from an out of range voltage or something and needs the vehicle to run for a while to recalibrate.

Unless your booster had a 7.5 amp fuse to replace the one you removed, it is possible for the 25 amp circuit to have received more than 25 amps of current, which seems like a coincidence, but could have caused damage. People seem fine replacing the 7.5 amp fuse with just a diode and not have a fuse inline, but those diodes can far exceed 7.5 amps before failing. It's unlikely in that circuit, however. Personally, I rigged up a diode with inline 7.5 amp fuse to replace my 7.5 amp fuse.

 

[sheptastic]

I'm no EE, but I'm guessing if you installed one of those devices on another circuit it would drop the voltage, not increase it. The AGM boosters work by using a diode's internal resistance to drop the voltage on that 7.5 amp circuit causing the alternator to compensate by outputting a higher voltage. If it was installed on another circuit, it wouldn't provide feedback to the alternator to increase voltage. It's possible that the issue you have now is temporary from an out of range voltage or something and needs the vehicle to run for a while to recalibrate.

Unless your booster had a 7.5 amp fuse to replace the one you removed, it is possible for the 25 amp circuit to have received more than 25 amps of current, which seems like a coincidence, but could have caused damage. People seem fine replacing the 7.5 amp fuse with just a diode and not have a fuse inline, but those diodes can far exceed 7.5 amps before failing. It's unlikely in that circuit, however. Personally, I rigged up a diode with inline 7.5 amp fuse to replace my 7.5 amp fuse.

Just confirmed that the Voltage Booster Pro has a fuse, so no need to worry about overcurrent. Seems like worst case, the circuit you installed it on just had less than 1 volt below normal, depending on what setting you had it on. The diodes only drop the voltage a few tenths of a volt each.