DiamondRax for the 100

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I'd never seen this before

http://www.diamondrax.com/diamondrax-roof-racks-and-the-toyota-land-cruiser-100-series.html
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looks like a great option
 
I am PMS'ing :flipoff2:

How's highway wind noise - looks like it could be a lot? Maybe the light bar acts as a fairing.

I expected a lot more noise than there is. It's really not noticeable. This is a low profile rack and yes, it's possible the Rigid light bar is acting as a fairing. They do make two taller rack designs and they put fairings on those.

I mentioned that the rack is so solid that it actually resonates if you bang on it with something hard. All of the welds are full length. No tack welding anywhere. Dave Forgerson at DiamondRax worked with Pete Condos at Con-ferr and the DiamondRax racks are built in what used to be the Con-ferr R&D facility. When they aren't building roof racks, these guys are steel fabricators and they're pretty passionate about build quality. I had a Con-ferr rack on my 80 and we beat the hell out of that thing with no effect. My experience with Con-ferr is what made me look at DiamondRax in the first place.

The only noise I hear out of the rack is an occasional bell gong sound when I go over a particularly brutal bump in the road. It seems to be coming from the frame for the sunroof. I expect that the insert piece they're making for cargo will eliminate that. As it is I've heard it only three or four times in two weeks of driving, so I don't consider it an issue.
 
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Do the ends fold up front and rear for cargo support?
They kind of look like they do... :hhmm:
 
So why have a website if you don't post pricing?

http://www.diamondrax.com/diamondrax...00-series.html
Always a good question. In fact, many web sites don't post pricing. In DiamondRax case, I suspect it's that much of what they do is custom. They'd rather talk to you, figure out your needs and then give you a quote. I suspect you'll see a price list on their site sometime soon.

My rack was custom built (to accommodate the sunroof opening).
 
Nice setup! How about a night shot showing the output of those lights. Looks like you could light a stadium. Nice pics too btw.
Thanks! I'll need to get the light bar actually wired in first. That's the next project. As for the pics... it's nice to find a chance to use the Nikon. Shot for a living when I was a kid. Now it's rare to have the time.
 
Overall, Great looking truck, and thanks for showing us the rack.
I have a question about the motorized ham antenna mount you mentiond. I've never heard about or seen one. How does it work? Does the mast extend like the OEM antenna or does the full length flip up from a horizontal position? Do you have a web link where I can see a pic?
Thanks

The antenna is a Diamond CR8900A mounted on a Diamond K9000LRM antenna mount. (Which will mount on a DiamondRax rack. And Christo Slee, who made my rear bumper, is from South Africa, the diamond capitol of the world. Coincidence? Or conspiracy?) The antenna stores horizontally, fully extended, and is rotated into place by the motorized mount. Here's a link to the mount on the Diamond site.

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The Diamond surface mount switch is a bit cheesy for my taste so I've used a Toyota switch which will mount in the dash in a Slee microphone holder.
 
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I've used that Diamond mount on my old 4-Runner for over 6 years. It actually worked very well, surviing a few low hanging garage entrance hits. I still have it packed in a box for one day when I get a rack for my LC...
 
popawoody said:
If there's anything in these photos that would lead anyone to believe that this is a cheap, aluminum, bolt-together rack, I don't see it. The thing is welded together of 16 gauge steel.

I believe it's a good value for what you need and received.

But your comment of "cheap aluminum bolt together" had me thinking. Was that because you were told, led to believe, out of your budget or based on structural facts of mild steel vs extrusion? Not an argument, just curios.


I grabbed a 45" section of extrusion that's 1.5" square and weighs 4.15oz. Backed up it once and then drove up it in my 100.

Placed on a level surface and there's 3/16 of deflection. There's maybe 800 pound under that tire. As the other three had a higher load.

I'll set it up when I have a spotter and lay one under each tire and drive on my retaining wall.

Q. What's the wall thickness and tube dia, if you know. As I have lots of tube and want to do the same test if I can.

Q. What components/parts are 16ga mild steel?
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I believe it's a good value for what you need and received.

But your comment of "cheap aluminum bolt together" had me thinking. Was that because you were told, led to believe, out of your budget or based on structural facts of mild steel vs extrusion? Not an argument, just curios.

Q. What's the wall thickness and tube dia, if you know. As I have lots of tube and want to do the same test if I can.

Q. What components/parts are 16ga mild steel?

Hey, I'm a big fan of aluminum. I'm typing on a computer hogged out of aluminum, my motorcycle is mostly made of billet and, as a pilot, I trust aluminum with my life. Not so much as a skydiver. Parachute hardware is all drop forged or stainless steel.

But my comment was aimed at the specifics of the Surco racks referred to by our friend pegasis0066. Surco racks are both inexpensive and cheap and they're bolted together with bucketloads of screws.

As for the physical specs of the rack, I can tell you that everything is steel but not what grade of steel or the tubing wall thickness. Rather than have me guess, let me talk to Dave and Greg and get the specs directly from them. With any luck they'll join this thread.

I will say that your extrusion of hardened aluminum is a much better material to use in your test application than any steel tube.
 
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I grabbed a 45" section of extrusion that's 1.5" square and weighs 4.15oz. Backed up it once and then drove up it in my 100.

Placed on a level surface and there's 3/16 of deflection. There's maybe 800 pound under that tire. As the other three had a higher load.

I'll set it up when I have a spotter and lay one under each tire and drive on my retaining wall.

That looks like 80/20 extrusion, I use a lot of it building industrial machinery. There is software available to calculate loads and deflections at 80/20 Design Tools - Tech Toolkit™ Introduction. Might be easier than driving your truck on it.

Your piece looks to be black anodized, and doesn't have the grooves 80/20 extrusion has in inch-standard (fractional) size, maybe it's not 80/20 but probably very similar.
 
That looks like 80/20 extrusion, I use a lot of it building industrial machinery. There is software available to calculate loads and deflections at 80/20 Design Tools - Tech Toolkit™ Introduction. Might be easier than driving your truck on it.

Your piece looks to be black anodized, and doesn't have the grooves 80/20 extrusion has in inch-standard (fractional) size, maybe it's not 80/20 but probably very similar.

It's not 80/20's but close, it's smooth and powder coated after machining. that tutorial is kick ass,thanks for posting as I will play with it later. I was going to take a few of my practice pieces and assemble them and see if it would support the weight of my 100 8" off the ground without fracturing, it will be interesting.
 
I've used that Diamond mount on my old 4-Runner for over 6 years. It actually worked very well, surviing a few low hanging garage entrance hits. I still have it packed in a box for one day when I get a rack for my LC...

I'm glad to hear that you've had good luck with them. One always worries about adding yet another motor that can fail.
 
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