Dethreaded recovery point bolts (2 Viewers)

[Queglay]

I do use a recovery hitch into the tow bar, I’d like to just get this functional the best I can though, and the wheel carrier probably needs it too. Apparently timeserts are stronger than helicoils so I might go with that approach.

 

[bloc]

I personally wouldn't go that route without first confirming that the threaded insert can handle that modification.

The threaded inserts I have seen (though not from a 200-series) are not at all like a threaded hole in a plate of steel, or even a hex nut. They were more like a "t-nut" with a little extra steel. Meaning threaded walls far too thin for either operation. Which makes sense, when you no longer need the hex sides of a nut to hold the fastener for tightening. All you need is the minimum steel to keep the bolt from pulling through.

 

[ZRTactical]

What the above said. I would trust the helicoil in this application. You could engage a fabricator to weld in an insert

 

[TeCKis300]

So as not to get caught up around the helicoil/timesert trades... that part of the operation is completely optional and extra, and only to be able to use OEM sized hardware. As you're running a rear bar which requires different hardware anyways, just skip that part. It'll make the job easier.

You're going to need to cut threads a size up anyways. Just use hardware a size up, which will exceed all factory specs.

The only unknown part is whether there is enough meat to do so and I believe there is given what I've seen of frame hardware. Cutting threads is easy and you can always decide if you need to do something different after you do that step.

Here's a 2nd gen Tundra frame. The nuts you can see in the c-channel at the bottom are likely exactly the type the LC200 uses being the same generation. Large flange type nuts which is typical of Toyota to better spread loads into the frame.

 

[bloc]

I got a new borescope recently, figured this was a good use for it. Plus I didn't want to admit our frame have anything to do with the open C-channel tundra parts.

Turns out even these are oversized on a 200..

Rear, where OP had issues

Front

Based on these yes I think drilling and tapping to the next larger size should work well enough.

 

[TeCKis300]

I got a new borescope recently, figured this was a good use for it. Plus I didn't want to admit our frame have anything to do with the open C-channel tundra parts.

Turns out even these are oversized on a 200..

Rear, where OP had issues

View attachment 3929263

Front

View attachment 3929264

Based on these yes I think drilling and tapping to the next larger size should work well enough.

Nicely done and great to have that confirmation. The open C of the Tundras was the only way I could find a useful pic online knowing our frames are fully boxed.

Good to also see that these captive nuts have more than a slight weld tack.

 

[Queglay]

That’s really helpful, thankyou. I’ll check the helicoil tap I’ve ordered and try to get a 50mm bolt to match that size up.

 

[Queglay]

Looking around more, it looks like simply sizing up the bolt isn't that straight forward if I want the helicoil as a fallback. A threaded insert tap doesn't match the next size up bolt, in this thread its mentioned the pitch can be different - What is the actuall size of a Helicoil 12mm x 1.5mm tap? - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/what-is-the-actuall-size-of-a-helicoil-12mm-x-1-5mm-tap.39824/post-534635

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

As an alternative to tapping a size larger, you could:
1.) Remove the bumper for access
2.) Clean up the area inside the "nut"
3.) fill the area inside the nut with fresh weld
4.) Center punch, then drill with a tungsten carbide 10.5mm bit
5.) Tap the newly drilled hole with a M12 x 1.25 mm tap (high quality with oil, and as many rounds of the ol' in-and-out as she needs to get the job done
6.) Put anti seize on the "new" threads
7.) Reassemble
8.) 6 beers

Not the simplest job, but a possibility to get to "as close to stock as possible"