All the threads I am finding the pictures are all removed and not getting straight answers. first is spring perches. I see several that retained the perches on the bottom, does this mean cutting those off is optional? second, the caster kit. Tells me nothing about it, where it goes, what it is, etc. Am I going to have any instructions in the box or am I going to just wing things some more?
detailed install of ruffstuff SOA?? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BoomerUZ
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I left my perches on, used them as a reference; they also give me a nice jacking/strapping point.
Not too difficult, but i would recommend doing a cut and turn as well.
Not too difficult, but i would recommend doing a cut and turn as well.
- Thread starter
- #3
isnt the caster kit to prevent the need to cut and turn?
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- #4
Confirmed with ruffstuff the caster kit makes it so you dont have to cut and turn. But now the question is. Am I rocking it back 10 degrees which makes driveshaft angle worse. Or forward. Forward is what makes logical sense based on driveline angles but I feel I am overlooking something
In my experience you cannot do a SOA, and achieve proper pinion angle & caster without a cut-N-turn. You can get one or the other. You can use the kit to set trunions at proper caster but you will find that leaves pinion flat. You can get a driveline to work, usually have to limit drop out on passenger side to prevent dline bind or make some minor custom mods to stock dline then it depends on how much your srpings drop out wether the dline will bind. I hung the front, jacked up driver side, used a bottle jack to push pass side down to full droop and then check dline binding. The later model 40's have more angle possible at the yokes than the early ones.
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- #7
Working with a 55 with custom driveline so i can change all that on the fly, ive already dropped the front output flange down a good 2 inches. My concern is the steering part. If I put the caster 10 degree part to raise the pinion up more, am I going to have steering issues or what my next move is. Right now I just have to put the lift to get the oil pan away from the diff.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Relying on Ruffstuff's pre-cut brackets to eliminate having to do a C&T is the wrong approach. They have no idea what your setup will be and there are too many variables. Just mock it all up and figure out what needs to be done. You want your springs eyes pretty close to the same elevation with respect to the ground, which will give you best shot of not having any interference with drag link/tie rod. Pinion angle target is going to depend on what kind of driveshaft you are using - Double Cardan means you point the pinion approximately at the output flange of the t-case - Regular means you make the pinion flange parallel with your t-case output flange. From there, you can burn in your spring perches (clearance/adjust as necessary to set pinion angle) and then measure your caster. If you are capable of welding on spring perches, you are capable of a cut & turn. Its really simple, just takes a little patience with an angle grinder & cut-off wheel to carefully cut out the factory weld attaching the balls to the housing. A large pipe that fits through the knuckle ball bearing race holes makes easy work of turning the balls, assuming the housing is secured to the leaf springs after you burn in the spring perches.
I have installed this kit on an FJ40 with spring over....it required customization.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Have done half a dozen springovers over the years, never cut and turned any axles,never had any drivability issues!
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- #10
I have my driveline tilted approx 3-4 degrees for when the lift is on the rear driveline angle is easier which aided in decreasing front angle as well by lowering the flange down from the OE position. Driveshafts will be cut down to fit, rear is a good 8" too long now, front I need an adapter which is also a 0.5" spacer, and that driveshaft will be custom cut based on the adaptor. I just wanted to clarify that im not shooting my foot off rolling the caster the wrong way or something steering related
I also have never done a cut and turn BUT. I was building dedicated crawlers not really overlanding style build where I need to drive on highways and stuff lol
I also have never done a cut and turn BUT. I was building dedicated crawlers not really overlanding style build where I need to drive on highways and stuff lol
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- #11
Step 1. Jack up car. Step 2. Remove leaf springs (ask me how I know this is next). Step 3. Remove u bolts. Step 4. Cut off upper spring perch (which is a lot harder with the leaf still on, and now when I try to remove the bolts the leaf articulates -_- )
If it was me I would have unbolted the u bolts, unhook the brake line, unhook shocks, unhook driveshaft, take shackles loose and roll axle out to work on it.
But thts just me
But thts just me
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- #13
I would do that but im afraid if I remove the axle, then I wont have the steering components to keep the axle centered. Im also workin on a dirt driveway so having the car above me keeps me outta the rain we are having lately lol
