Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake (1 Viewer)

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Not needed. The vertical height is buying you the most strength in that beam. The welding will just pull/bend it. I'd delete.

I would up size the hardware used to hold the truss on also. I did 1/2 inch grade 8. If I do something stupid like max out the jacks using too narrow a bottom die width I can bend them. I would go up to 5/8

On the rolling die. Rolling is a pretty different process, you need force to turn the die also. I would just use pipe/tube and see if you could find a radius that works after spring back. Make the bottom dies have a few different width positions to allow using different dia upper dis vs the bend angle you want.....likely a max 90.

10-4, will delete.

Will upsize hardware to 3/4" to match the tensioning bar.

Doing some more research, I see now that sheet metal rollers are typically powered with a hand crank. When I was thinking about it originally, I figured they'd be more like an english wheel where you could push the material through by hand, but that's not the case.

Any trips to Greensboro in the foreseeable future? Have a neighbor I really think you could get some good info from.

I don't. What are you thinking?
 
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10-4, will delete.

Will upsize hardware to 3/4" to match the tensioning bar.

Doing some more research, I see now that sheet metal rollers are typically powered with a hand crank. When I was thinking about it originally, I figured they'd be more like an english wheel where you could push the material through by hand, but that's not the case.



I don't. What are you thinking?

Thinking if we were smart we could factor in a few rounds at the shooting range, a few brews, some good chow, and you could talk with Dale who runs a metal shop across the street. Knows metal equipment and has made much of it himself in order to meet specialized needs.
 
Thinking if we were smart we could factor in a few rounds at the shooting range, a few brews, some good chow, and you could talk with Dale who runs a metal shop across the street. Knows metal equipment and has made much of it himself in order to meet specialized needs.

That does sound like fun. When are you thinking?



Updated upper die guide. All 3/4" fasteners and got rid of the tube along the truss. Changed the height of the truss bar to be 6" tall, so now it's 1"x6".

Upper_die_guide_updated.JPG
 
Different than which brake in that website? There are a bunch of different designs there. This design is an attempt to create a hydraulic press brake using inexpensive bottle jacks.
 
SWAG makes a bunch more press brake kits than I thought they did. I'll likely redesign my setup to use the 50" version here. Will make fabrication much easier.

SWAG Press Brake Kits
50
 
You are going to need a LOT of extra structure with that setup. That is basically just an upper and lower die set for $800.

Understood, and agreed. I'll incorporate the swag upper and lower die set into the frame I've designed.
 
Understood, and agreed. I'll incorporate the swag upper and lower die set into the frame I've designed.

I don't see how that gains you much for $800 bucks?

The laminated tooling I designed for mine works REALLY well. Having the narrow bottom groove for sheetmetal is really nice. The swag setup really limits you on how short the flanges and bend offset can be. Beyond that, having the ability to vary both the top and BOTTOM die width really helps with what you can do. You can even build specialty tooling for a specific job. The same goes for the top die. It is really nice to have it be variable in width, modular, etc.

Just my thoughts. I have another press brake I built for my 20 ton HF press. I did a lot with it, but what I learned in that evolved my design for the big press.
 
My thought is that buying this would save time and difficulty in machining the top rail. This also gives me a finger press with a clamping system similar to how you designed yours, so I could put laminated dies in this rail, just like yours. I don't have a way (yet) to cut out the laminated dies, or machine the top rail, so a finger press like this will allow me to get started.

The bottom die is a limitation, but I could just as easily eliminate the angle iron and make bottom dies when the need arises.

I see it as paying $800 for a set of finger dies and a machined top rail that will get me going! Design will have to change to make it press down instead of up, but that shouldn't be difficult.

EDIT: For example:

5x10HD plasma build - Page 5 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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