Dent Repair.....body hammers/tools (1 Viewer)

[tls3601]

So my PO had all the fun with my 40 and now I am doing all the repairs....sound familiar??? Anyways, can anyone with some experience reccommend a good set of body repair hammers/tools? I am fortunate as almost all the dent/dings are easily gotten behind of, although the L Rear Q panel has a nice dent just lateral to where the roll bar is inside. Maybe a around the corner tool with a flat surface. I have actually used a block of wood from the inside and a rubber mallet to improve it somewhat but really need the right equip..................help! Pics enclosed

 

[RAYJON]

Due to the thickness of fj40 metal a torch helps alot, you can use a hammer and dolly, for some dents using off dolly technique works. Shrinking hammer doesn't work real well without heat. The dent you have is going to require some shrinking due to the metal being stretched right there.. google shrinking metal with a torch..

 

[tls3601]

Thanks Rayjon, also know anything about Eastwood tools????

 

[RAYJON]

Eastwood is good for the $$, if you are only doing a little try and borrow what you need good body work tools can get $$$$.

You can also use a pin gun to shrink metal. Just takes longer. ..

 

[tls3601]

How do I find out about a pin gun? Sorry so many q's, amateur here..................

 

[RAYJON]

Pin gun welds small pins to the metal to pull on, they have a different tip that heats up the metal cherry red about the size of dime. Then you hit it with a wet rag to shrink it.. you tube is your friend there are a few good video's. If you practice on something you dont care about, like a old fender you can see how metal moves, thicker metal takes more effort but is good to learn on.

 

[tls3601]

Thanks Rayjon, know anything about a book called The Key To Metal Bumping by Frank T. Sargent???? Wanting to learn more.

 

[RAYJON]

I have heard of it haven't read it, I have old book on bodywork that has a section on metal working. I just practiced on a fender I was going to throw, once you get the hang of it you will be amazed what you can straighten.. with today's body filler And y2k primer you can straighten anything 1/8 inch or less with filler. Too many people do stuff they shouldn't with filler so it gets used in places it shouldn't. Do it right and it will last a long time..

 

[Splangy]

Thanks Rayjon, know anything about a book called The Key To Metal Bumping by Frank T. Sargent???? Wanting to learn more.

This is a very good start to learn things.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[tls3601]

Yeah, i am going to pick that book up. YouTube vid on pin gun?? All good and helpfull too, thanks Rayjon & Splangy

 

[Zack1978]

Depending on how much you want to spend, take a look at Martin auto body tools. Most professionals use their Made in the USA products.
Also check out shrinking disks, I have never used one, but many people claim they work miracles.

 

[Cherrick]

Those are not dents. Those are gouges. Say hello to Mr. Bondo.

Or take it to your local Dent Busters and end up paying less than the cost of a set of tools.

 

[shelfboy1]

i use 2 hammers for some work one in the back like a dolly and one to pound ,been pounding metal for 50 years and never owned any body tools ,you can use heavy angle iron solid bar stock or anything flat and heavy .wet rag system works also but takes practice .a good tinners hammer works well also

 

[teleskier]

What I am understanding is that metal work is a lost art on these old vehicles. I want a zero-fill truck but have quite a few dents. I cannot find someone in the area to do this for me so I am learning on my own. It is an art. I am super perfectionist to a fault, but also am really enjoying this skill set. I want to respect the original spot welds and make sure the slight waviness of the panels remains as close to OEM as possible. Getting the panel perfectly flat is very difficult and time consuming and not in keeping with what these looked like new. 90% of the straitening takes 10% of the time. The remaining 10% of straightening takes 90% of the time.

I bought and use the following:
Dollies and hammers at HF - door panel and body panel kit. Martin may make better tools, but they are much more expensive and I am not sure I would ever notice any difference.
H&S Stud welder: welds a steel pin to the metal which can then be pulled with a lever or a slap hammer to pull a dent
H&S Dent Puller: This is a bit more rapid than the above, and excels at larger dents on bigger panels
Shrinking Disk: It heats high spots and then you spray water on it to rapidly cool the metal (shrink it)
MAP blowtorch: I would use an oxy/acetylene if I had it - be interesting to hear what others think.
MIG welder
Battery angle grinders with a 2" rol-lock adapter for small flap disk
Body panels from Real Steel and other OEM panels for patching really rough areas.

I read the metal bumping book. It is good for a 30 min read to get you started. It is also interesting to read a book about shaping metal before filler was ever used.

General sequence is:
Dolly and hammer at apex of dent wave to push the metal back to its original location.
Stud puller
Dollies and hammer to get the panel close to flat
Shrinking disk
Dollies with smooth crown hammer
Shrinking Disk
Dollies and shrinking hammer
Shrinking disk
Dollies and flap faced hammer
Shrinking disk.

Once that is done, I will place a primer and sand to identify and correct any high spots.

 

[RAYJON]

Harbour freight hammers are not the greatest, they are hard and have no crown to them/perfectly flat, the dollies aren't bad but you need put a crown on the hammer or buy a good hammer with a proper crown, especially when you are learning or you will end up marking the metal every time you dont hit percectly flat (almost impossible)

Your game plan is good, you also might want to make/buy some slapping hammers, i prefer home made ones with some weight. The comment above about some big heavy backers helps especially when shrinking big spots.. slappers can be made out of just about any spring steel, just remember any marks on the hammer or dolly will be transferred to the metal when you hit it...

Watch some video on shrinking with a torch and how to hammer and dolly,.

 

[RAYJON]

One more thing fj40's are 16 ga metal, alot of the stuff you see on line will be 20ga or 22ga sheet metal. It takes a little heat and a little more persuasion to move 16ga, not hitting hard just more small hits and patience.. the 90/10 rule it about tight.. goodluck..

 

[Splangy]

What I am understanding is that metal work is a lost art on these old vehicles. I want a zero-fill truck but have quite a few dents. I cannot find someone in the area to do this for me so I am learning on my own. It is an art. I am super perfectionist to a fault, but also am really enjoying this skill set. I want to respect the original spot welds and make sure the slight waviness of the panels remains as close to OEM as possible. Getting the panel perfectly flat is very difficult and time consuming and not in keeping with what these looked like new. 90% of the straitening takes 10% of the time. The remaining 10% of straightening takes 90% of the time.

I bought and use the following:
Dollies and hammers at HF - door panel and body panel kit. Martin may make better tools, but they are much more expensive and I am not sure I would ever notice any difference.
H&S Stud welder: welds a steel pin to the metal which can then be pulled with a lever or a slap hammer to pull a dent
H&S Dent Puller: This is a bit more rapid than the above, and excels at larger dents on bigger panels
Shrinking Disk: It heats high spots and then you spray water on it to rapidly cool the metal (shrink it)
MAP blowtorch: I would use an oxy/acetylene if I had it - be interesting to hear what others think.
MIG welder
Battery angle grinders with a 2" rol-lock adapter for small flap disk
Body panels from Real Steel and other OEM panels for patching really rough areas.

I read the metal bumping book. It is good for a 30 min read to get you started. It is also interesting to read a book about shaping metal before filler was ever used.

General sequence is:
Dolly and hammer at apex of dent wave to push the metal back to its original location.
Stud puller
Dollies and hammer to get the panel close to flat
Shrinking disk
Dollies with smooth crown hammer
Shrinking Disk
Dollies and shrinking hammer
Shrinking disk
Dollies and flap faced hammer
Shrinking disk.

Once that is done, I will place a primer and sand to identify and correct any high spots.

Why the need for zero filler? Are you powder coating it? There’s absolutely nothing wrong with body filller when used properly and there’s no way in hell a first-timer is going to get a body perfectly straight without it.

I’m not trying to discourage you from learning the art of sheet metal bumping, but it takes years to acquire those skills and it may be foolish to endeavor for straight panels that don’t involve at least a skim to straighten things out. There’s nothing wrong with it and don’t let anybody convince you otherwise.

 

[RAYJON]

If you have an aversion to bondo, try y2k high build primer.. 3 coats ia about 1/8 of an inch.. and once curred is not going anywhere.. used a total of 5 coats(sanded alot off) on my black crew cab doors 10 years later still look great, gm doors are never straight but mine are.. and it seals doesnt absorb moisture.. its more $$ but makes it real easy to block out..