since I don't have a non sunroof model I am removing the sunroof and filling the hole. after removing the assembly I drove the fj with nothing in it and the roof started oil caning and bouncing hitting the roof support cross member and this was just on a slightly bumpy paved road. question what have other members done to reinforce the area. will just filling the hole cure it or do I need to add a roof support cross member. will just putting the gutted sunroof card back in stiffen it back up.. for sure not putting the sunroof back in . I can't be the 1st one to do this so hoping someone who has done this pipes in or shows me an old thread that covers the options and ideas. looks will not be my big concern as this is just an adventure rig not a daily driver show piece.
deleting fj80 sunroof
- Thread starter lacresta
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The sheet metal alone to fill the hole would probably be fine, if you wanted to reinforce without going great lengths of finding oem braces just look for some inexpensive aluminum bar stock. You can bend and cut to the shape of the roof relatively easily and to secure it just run a good high strength adhesive which should do fine for keeping from caving or bouncing on bumpy stuff.
tractor supply or even most hardware stores should have this stuff.
I haven’t done this to an 80 series but quite a few 60‘s Chevy trucks with aftermarket sunroofs.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Do you own a bead roller by any chance?
Some thin ~1”flat stock with a rib run in it would work & give you a great spoolpiece / panel holder while you burn in your plug, even a few holes in the panel & drop some rosettes in them.
I’d want a single truss in the middle, or ideally 2 placed under where you butt-weld in the sheetmetal, could easily be just 1/2” box tube you run through a tube bender & put a gentle arch in.
Just a few ideas / ways - there’s 14,808 ways to skin this cat.
Some thin ~1”flat stock with a rib run in it would work & give you a great spoolpiece / panel holder while you burn in your plug, even a few holes in the panel & drop some rosettes in them.
I’d want a single truss in the middle, or ideally 2 placed under where you butt-weld in the sheetmetal, could easily be just 1/2” box tube you run through a tube bender & put a gentle arch in.
Just a few ideas / ways - there’s 14,808 ways to skin this cat.
- Thread starter
- #4
I found a company that still sells the roof cross members at least the online add says still available, just curious how the factory cross member just behind the sunroof card supports the roof there is no connection from roof to cross member. I am asking my auto body shop now about welding in a filler plate or if I should just use an aluminum sheet bonded or bolted with sealer to fill or cover the sunroof hole. not a fan of dissimilar metals touching each other but the bonding material or sealer might make that ok. I never would have thought the sunroof card was a structural element.
I plated over the hole with 16 gauge steel plate, and did not use any reinforcement. Prior to patching the hole, driving around without the sunroof assembly installed caused some really nasty wind buffeting at relatively low speeds, even on smooth pavement - sounds like the same thing you experienced.
The simple plate cover does not flex or bounce at all (disclaimer: not tested past around 80 mph).
Here are some pics of my sunroof delete: Bicycle Tube Sunroof Fix/wind noise gone! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bicycle-tube-sunroof-fix-wind-noise-gone.235129/post-11990218
- Cheers
- Thread starter
- #6
I never thought about it being the wind buffeting it. after looking more at how the card mounts could not see how that would really reinforce the area. also noticed there is no connection between the roof and cross member so thinking your on the money with it being the open hole and the wind. have to ask though what is the difference when the sunroof is open what keeps it from buffeting? I got to to say though this forum really is a wealth of experience and knowledge I really appreciate everyone piping in thanks..
I don't use my sunroof ever, so I unhooked the controls and used some black all weather GE silicone (some of the best s***) and mineral spirits to make a perfect looking seal. You pump it into the edges between the sunroof and body and then smooth it out with mineral spirits and a form (I used a credit card cut to the shape I wanted). Can barely even tell that's not how it's supposed to be.
- Thread starter
- #9
all good stuff. I am assuming you left the sunroof card assemble in as well good idea. for me I am also trying to shave as much weight as I can off the roof and when I put it on the scale its over 55lbs with everything. I know these rigs can get pretty heavy and some would say you won't notice the weight which is true, I would just rather any weight on the roof be form gear that I use. going to try my best to keep all weight off it if possible its really hard getting use to how under powered these are.. being in ca engine swaps are very tough and not being wealthy enough to build a Joe rogan clone I am stuck putting her on a diet.
yes plan is to reinstall a headliner I got out of a 96. might do a custom roof storage bag in the sunroof hole similar to the roof bags we have in our side by sides.
yes plan is to reinstall a headliner I got out of a 96. might do a custom roof storage bag in the sunroof hole similar to the roof bags we have in our side by sides.
- Thread starter
- #10
covered the roof with plastic to test and sure enough the wind was causing the roof buffeting, so support is not the problem.
I going to try something a little different, cutting a piece of G10 fiberglass just a bit oversized to thru bolt it down using 3M body panel epoxy adhesive. it should conform pretty well to the roof lines but eventually it will be under a roof rack so not to concerned with the look of it. just want it to seal and no leaks. we use G10 for thru hull backing plates on boats below the water line and use 3m 5200 as the bond and sealer. 5200 might actually work better because it stays flexible and can fill a pretty big gap if needed.
Excellent, glad you solved the buffeting mystery. I like your plan.
I've used the 3M 5200 on my boat to bond a SST plate to the fiberglass hull - worked great, serious stuff. If your fiberglass roof cover is thin and flexible enough, you should be in good shape with the adhesive and bolts. I had to bend the front corners of my steel cover plate to make it conform to the roof, then hold it in place with rivets. Used a 3M body sealant (not adhesive) at the plate-to-roof interface. (In retrospect, 5200 would've been better.) Applied body filler along the plate perimeter, and a dab into each rivet head, followed by sanding to smooth everything down. Then, painted the whole mess with primer and a few coats of VIN color-matched rattle can. Likely I'll try a white 3M vinyl roof wrap next to help with the summer sun.
Interested in pics of your project. Good Luck!
- Thread starter
- #12
PIC 1 rough cut G10
PIC 2. blue tape, drilled and bolted G10 dry fit. started with front center hole worked toward outside.
PIC 3 corner thru bolt is the one that I had a learning curve on.. 3rd hole was the right spot so you will notice the two mistake holes. I used stainless 6 32 with just a standard nut to make it easier. I could have used lock nuts but having to put them on then take off and then on again for final 5200 fit decided normal nuts would be just fine. I have worked a lot with stainless bolts and lock nuts and sometimes no matter how careful and slow you go the nuts can seize up then you have to break them off.. did not want to chance a seized nut with wet 5200 going off. stuff is really messy. with the 5200 being the real bond the thru bolts are really mostly for holding it down until 5200 goes off. I drilled all holes from the inside so that I could place the holes in the strongest parts of the sunroof frame area to prevent the thinner roof distorting while sucking the stiff G10 down to match the roof curve. the G10 was around 3/16"
PIC 4 scuffed paint area for better stick.. also counter sunk all drilled holes so it was as flat as possible.
PIC 5 scuffed and counter sunk for same reasons.
PIC 6 G10 bolted down and 5200 sandwiched. I always try and have the blue tape applied where I want the adhesive to stop. Before its dry I work the edge to make it as clean and filled as possible.. you can only do so much though, then before it drys I pull the tape being carfule not to get the stuff all over everything. This gives you a nice line, well as nice as you take time to put the tape on.. I wear gloves because there is no way you not getting this stuff on you.. and change them out a lot.. if not it seems like I will get it on something I don't want. notice how wide the black 5200 is thats because I did not care about the inside having a clean line so did not put any tape on the inside and just used my finger to wipe up the squish out. if you really wanted it clean tape the inside to.. again this stuff is not good to get on things you don't want it on. so I covered the interior the best I could with a moving blanket and still ended up with some on the seat.. lucky I did not have a cloth interior or would have been a problem. my rig is far from a pristine street queen if it was I would have taken the seats out and covered everything.. my two F-up holes will be filled after.
PIC 7 side view the G10 sticks up less then a 1/4" again this does not bug me but a piece of correctly formed sheet metal would look much cleaner in some eyes. and could be installed the same way. forming the metal was not something I had time for. the G10 is supper easy to cut and work with jig saw and that drill with the scotch pad shapes it with little effort. the G10 cost me $90 and the 5200 $20. misc material $15 total time to do it not counting paint which will be next about 2hrs.
PIC 2. blue tape, drilled and bolted G10 dry fit. started with front center hole worked toward outside.
PIC 3 corner thru bolt is the one that I had a learning curve on.. 3rd hole was the right spot so you will notice the two mistake holes. I used stainless 6 32 with just a standard nut to make it easier. I could have used lock nuts but having to put them on then take off and then on again for final 5200 fit decided normal nuts would be just fine. I have worked a lot with stainless bolts and lock nuts and sometimes no matter how careful and slow you go the nuts can seize up then you have to break them off.. did not want to chance a seized nut with wet 5200 going off. stuff is really messy. with the 5200 being the real bond the thru bolts are really mostly for holding it down until 5200 goes off. I drilled all holes from the inside so that I could place the holes in the strongest parts of the sunroof frame area to prevent the thinner roof distorting while sucking the stiff G10 down to match the roof curve. the G10 was around 3/16"
PIC 4 scuffed paint area for better stick.. also counter sunk all drilled holes so it was as flat as possible.
PIC 5 scuffed and counter sunk for same reasons.
PIC 6 G10 bolted down and 5200 sandwiched. I always try and have the blue tape applied where I want the adhesive to stop. Before its dry I work the edge to make it as clean and filled as possible.. you can only do so much though, then before it drys I pull the tape being carfule not to get the stuff all over everything. This gives you a nice line, well as nice as you take time to put the tape on.. I wear gloves because there is no way you not getting this stuff on you.. and change them out a lot.. if not it seems like I will get it on something I don't want. notice how wide the black 5200 is thats because I did not care about the inside having a clean line so did not put any tape on the inside and just used my finger to wipe up the squish out. if you really wanted it clean tape the inside to.. again this stuff is not good to get on things you don't want it on. so I covered the interior the best I could with a moving blanket and still ended up with some on the seat.. lucky I did not have a cloth interior or would have been a problem. my rig is far from a pristine street queen if it was I would have taken the seats out and covered everything.. my two F-up holes will be filled after.
PIC 7 side view the G10 sticks up less then a 1/4" again this does not bug me but a piece of correctly formed sheet metal would look much cleaner in some eyes. and could be installed the same way. forming the metal was not something I had time for. the G10 is supper easy to cut and work with jig saw and that drill with the scotch pad shapes it with little effort. the G10 cost me $90 and the 5200 $20. misc material $15 total time to do it not counting paint which will be next about 2hrs.
Looks good, well done. That G10 seems to have folded down and conformed well at the front corners. Are you going to add a few more hold-down screws, or call it a day? Probably fine as-is...I tend to overdo it.
If anyone wants to go way overboard, I did see a part number for a non sunroof full roof panel on either amayama or partsouq. If they're still available that would be a bugger to ship I'm guessing.
- Thread starter
- #15
I am the same way always overbuilding things. this thickness G10 was about maxed out on conforming to the roof lines. there are two areas that seem to be the challenge. the edge of the opening seems to have a small lip for lack of better description so even the long sides have to kind of bend over it and down to meet the roof panel. you can only suck it down so far before the G10 distorted or the roof panel. the gap was less the a 1/16" which the 5200 filled nice. the other area is the corner and I had to try different holes until I found the one that pulled it down correctly. its a compound corner curving down in two directions side to side and front to back. so the corner has to have more over hang then the strait lines.
as far as adding more bolts no I won't be adding more the panel sucked down very evenly which was the idea. the 5200 would be enough by it self to secure the G10. the G10 is way stronger then the metal roof. time will tell though I plan on being pretty rough on this truck using it for fast open desert bumpy washboard roads more so then rock crawling. I will keep an eye on it for any separating. I would for sure rather of had a metal panel welded in by the body shop but the time and cost will be better spent on suspension and mech items.
this is for sure the primitive Pete solution.. not sure how many will get that reference but primitive Pete was the knuckle head in my junior high shop class safety movies.. ya movies not vids haha.. he took a beating never did things the right way..
solid roof would be the best but retrofitting one would probably cost more then I paid for the truck. my question is why would anyone ever put a sunroof in one of these!!! to each their own I am betting it was a good mark up item for the dealers more then demand from the customer.
I'm following this, since the sunroof is my next part of my project to tackle- cassette is already removed, I just need to decide what to do with the hole.
