Deferred Maintenance Advice For a Rookie Hundy Owner...

[Gnarwgn]

@TorchRedTulsan -

welcome to the club! I really appreciate the suggestion/invite to tackle the brakes together, and under normal circumstances I'd even bring the beer, however I'm up against it this time.

So best solution I'm thinking is get Midas and Firestone to give me their pricing, and use that to inform Toyota's quote.

 

[chingwodapigu]

Just wondering if anyone came up with a recommended independent shop in the Seattle/Eastside area. I'm looking to do the heater Ts before they fail, and don't have them time to mess with them myself unfortunately.

 

[TorchRedTulsan]

Most common recommendations are Torfab (month+ wait) in Everett and Mule Expedition Outfitters in Issaquah

Lots of guys on here saying it's a 10 min job. I'm in Kirkland and would be happy to help

 

[Ohthetrees]

Most common recommendations are Torfab (month+ wait) in Everett and Mule Expedition Outfitters in Issaquah

Lots of guys on here saying it's a 10 min job. I'm in Kirkland and would be happy to help

It took me more than 10 min because it was hard to reach some of the clamps and I replaced some nearby hoses as well. With a clamp tool, or even short handled but wide jawed pliers, it would have been very quick. It will certainly take less time than driving to a garage.

 

[Gnarwgn]

New question - I've slowly realized I'm possibly missing a couple interior trim pieces relating to seat belts.

Could anyone chime in on part #'s for the following if they exist?

1. the plastic cover for the 2nd row passenger side seatbelt floor bolt/anchor (pictured missing, and also pictured including as I have one of each, need the 2nd row passenger side Part # and may be the same as driver side, not sure)

2. the plastic cover for the 3rd row jump seat floor bolt/anchor (pictured)

 

[Gnarwgn]

Product share for the intermittent a/c R-134 refill/re pressurize exercise - discovered a replacement product called 'ZeroR' - one 6 ounce can just took me from 90 -130 PSI and blowing ice cold. For what its worth thought I'd share. Crossing my fingers there isn't some weird and unexpected byproduct of going this route, but so far so good!

 

[Gnarwgn]

Anybody know what to do about tail light housings getting condensation like this? After 20 years I suppose its unavoidable, but hoping there's a fix/hack that I'm not aware...

 

[ktmracer01]

first you need to figure out how moisture is getting in. It could be at the bulb, a crack in the lens, or it could be where it is bonded at the lens and the housing...?

 

[Gnarwgn]

next question - any ideas on what do to about the window trim/frame paint fading around driver, passenger, and backseat door windows? I think these are usually 'stickers' on most cars, but on ours I think the metal is painted black. Mine has been getting worse rapidly over the past year, and I think I need to fix it over the summer...

 

[Gnarwgn]

Checking on how normal this puddle after driving is - I believe its the melting frozen condensation from the ac condenser after driving, but just wanted to double check my understanding?

 

[trdcorolla]

That's about the right spot where it would drain to, it's right under the passenger sway bar bracket right?

 

[Gnarwgn]

That's about the right spot where it would drain to, it's right under the passenger sway bar bracket right?

Yes. And it happens every time I park when I've been running AC, I've meant to ask the question for years. Its clear/water, which is why I've never been overly alarmed. Always a surprisingly large puddle by the time its done. Not quite as embarrassing as when your kid pees in the neighbor's flower pot, but kind of in the same ballpark...

 

[YotaWagon]

Yes. And it happens every time I park when I've been running AC, I've meant to ask the question for years. Its clear/water, which is why I've never been overly alarmed. Always a surprisingly large puddle by the time its done. Not quite as embarrassing as when your kid pees in the neighbor's flower pot, but kind of in the same ballpark...

It's condensation from your A/C. The evaporator behind the glovebox collects and drains moisture near the passenger tire - completely normal.

 

[Gnarwgn]

New brain teaser -

My rear tailgate harness plug is not sitting flush to the metal frame anymore, and as far as I can tell that comprises the waterproof/watertight design. It appears that this is due to my aftermarket backup cam install from a couple years ago. Best Buy did the install, which was my first mistake and I've had to fix almost everything they touched since the install. Anyway - this is causing the plug to pop up just a bit, and I need to get it to sit back down as water is running through the gap, into the ceiling cargo trim, and dripping down into the cargo flooring and bumper/frame cavities. Finally figured out the issue after being haunted by it for most the winter.

So looking for input on the best way to fix this, I have 2 thoughts/ideas currently:

1. waterproof silicone around the harness plug/tailgate frame connection point, and call it good. Feels like the easy button, but unsure if thats a permanent solution?

2. figure out how to get a few more inches of backup cam wire and get it running correctly through the harness, so its not putting pressure on the harness plug and allowing water to run through. Potentially also silicone this after adjusting/fixing, just for a bulletproofing measure?

Also just for a best practice double check, Best Buy ran the reverse cam cord down the driver side thresholds, up and over the rear left rear well, through the jack compartment, and then up the rear driver's side column to the point pictured. Seems to be about the best you can do running that wire but if there are better ways that would be good to know to get myself some wire back to further resolve this problem. As it currently sits I think they used every inch of the cord which is why its pulling so tight against the harness plug.

 

[ktmracer01]

New brain teaser -

My rear tailgate harness plug is not sitting flush to the metal frame anymore, and as far as I can tell that comprises the waterproof/watertight design. It appears that this is due to my aftermarket backup cam install from a couple years ago. Best Buy did the install, which was my first mistake and I've had to fix almost everything they touched since the install. Anyway - this is causing the plug to pop up just a bit, and I need to get it to sit back down as water is running through the gap, into the ceiling cargo trim, and dripping down into the cargo flooring and bumper/frame cavities. Finally figured out the issue after being haunted by it for most the winter.

So looking for input on the best way to fix this, I have 2 thoughts/ideas currently:

1. waterproof silicone around the harness plug/tailgate frame connection point, and call it good. Feels like the easy button, but unsure if thats a permanent solution?

2. figure out how to get a few more inches of backup cam wire and get it running correctly through the harness, so its not putting pressure on the harness plug and allowing water to run through. Potentially also silicone this after adjusting/fixing, just for a bulletproofing measure?

Also just for a best practice double check, Best Buy ran the reverse cam cord down the driver side thresholds, up and over the rear left rear well, through the jack compartment, and then up the rear driver's side column to the point pictured. Seems to be about the best you can do running that wire but if there are better ways that would be good to know to get myself some wire back to further resolve this problem. As it currently sits I think they used every inch of the cord which is why its pulling so tight against the harness plug.

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bit of a tricky situation here... best bet would be to run the wire through the grommet like the factory wiring.

next best: maybe cut the grommet (straight cut into the boot) so the wire is incorporated to allow the grommet to sit flush, then use some black RTV to seal up the cut you make.