Deciphering PO’s A/C Wiring (1 Viewer)

[FJ60 guy]

I appreciate the details. I don’t need it to be OEM but I think it makes sense to try and reconfigure things so that it resembles a factory setup, even if that means aftermarket parts. I’d like to be able to use the A/C button as well as incorporate the AC amplifier so everything can work as intended.I’ll start putting together a list of parts that I’ll need.

with the 3-belt setup is the AC on a dedicated belt with its own tensioner?

Did you actually find the A/C amplifier in your system?

 

[dogcruiser]

This looks identical to mine. Except instead of the button/light someone put in a toggle switch but I have the same rheostat and relay. Trying to figure it out. I think the A/C amplifier is supposed to be mounted on the top of the evaporator box. I was hoping it could be accessed via removing the glove box only and not the whole dash.

@FJ60 guy misery loves company! Mines at the shop right now getting some things checked out. I want to see if all of the components are in good shape. I’m going to pull off the dash and dig into the AC components and get a better look. Removing the glove box only got me so far. Plus I’d like to clean the decades of dust from behind the dash. And my dash need to be ground down before I can put the dash cap on it. So off with the dash.

I’m also debating on whether to go to the 3 belt crank pulley. What would be the primary reason for doing that vs keeping it on the same belt/pulley as the alternator

 

[dogcruiser]

Did you actually find the A/C amplifier in your system?

No I haven’t. That’s why I’m going in deeper.

 

[FJ60 guy]

@FJ60 guy misery loves company! Mines at the shop right now getting some things checked out. I want to see if all of the components are in good shape. I’m going to pull off the dash and dig into the AC components and get a better look. Removing the glove box only got me so far. Plus I’d like to clean the decades of dust from behind the dash. And my dash need to be ground down before I can put the dash cap on it. So off with the dash.

I’m also debating on whether to go to the 3 belt crank pulley. What would be the primary reason for doing that vs keeping it on the same belt/pulley as the alternator

I'd love to see what you find. Mine is an LS conversión, so compressor is GM standard compressor that I want to control with the FJ60 button and A/C amp but haven't found the amp yet. Here's my thread: 1983 FJ60 Land Cruiser rebuild and upgrade

 

[cruisermatt]

No I haven’t. That’s why I’m going in deeper.

I just had a 83 60 come through the shop that had exactly the same setup as yours. Factory Non-AC but with what looks like a dealership or aftermarket conversion kit installed. Looks identical to what you have. There was no amplifier installed.

I ripped everything out including the wiring and installed a used evaporator box (from @3_puppies ) with a new Denso evaporator, new condenser up front, and all new hoses. Everything is twice the size. The 60 I was working on has a 350TBI now so custom hoses were required.
I also patched the hole drilled in the firewall for the aftermarket evaporator lines and used OEM grommets. Give me a sec and I will post some pics of what your setup looks like removed from the vehicle along with comparisons to OEM

 

[dogcruiser]

I just had a 83 60 come through the shop that had exactly the same setup as yours. Factory Non-AC but with what looks like a dealership or aftermarket conversion kit installed. Looks identical to what you have. There was no amplifier installed. Save yourself the effort.

What’s it like to install an amplifier vs keeping the aftermarket setup? Right now the AC comes on whenever I turn the vent on, so I leave it off (at least until I get it recharged)

I can’t wait to be back in WP so I can drive to the shop and say “help!”
See you in June 2021. Put me on the schedule!

 

[cruisermatt]

What’s it like to install an amplifier vs keeping the aftermarket setup? Right now the AC comes on whenever I turn the vent on, so I leave it off (at least until I get it recharged)

I can’t wait to be back in WP so I can drive to the shop and say “help!”
See you in June 2021. Put me on the schedule!

I wish you were around because I literally just had to figure out this exact dilemma you are in myself last week.
I didn't use an amplifier.
I put a used stock 60 AC switch (blue one) in the stock housing, cut the wires off it and hooked it up to the stock AC circuit. Then sent that 12V feed to an OEM low pressure switch in the evaporator box (I bet you don't have one), and then from there to the compressor. Dirt simple. Compressor only comes on with the switch, independent of the blower motor (except for if the blower motor is in the "off" position)

 

[cruisermatt]

 

[cruisermatt]

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I wish you were around because I literally just had to figure out this exact dilemma you are in myself last week.
I didn't use an amplifier.
I put a used stock 60 AC switch (blue one) in the stock housing, cut the wires off it and hooked it up to the stock AC circuit. Then sent that 12V feed to an OEM low pressure switch in the evaporator box (I bet you don't have one), and then from there to the compressor. Dirt simple. Compressor only comes on with the switch, independent of the blower motor (except for if the blower motor is in the "off" position)

Right, so there's no thermal cutout now, and the user needs to sense when the evaporator is icing up and switch the AC off?

I would run an AC amplifier board, or at least a simple thermistor.

Running without a low pressure switch is risky, if the refrigerant leaks out, so does the lubricant, and with no switch the compressor will keep running until it seizes up. Then you have a dead compressor and a condenser probably full of metal swarf which is also ready for the trash.

Everything is there for a reason.

EO

 

[cruisermatt]

Right, so there's no thermal cutout now, and the user needs to sense when the evaporator is icing up and switch the AC off?

I would run an AC amplifier board, or at least a simple thermistor.

Running without a low pressure switch is risky, if the refrigerant leaks out, so does the lubricant, and with no switch the compressor will keep running until it seizes up. Then you have a dead compressor and a condenser probably full of metal swarf which is also ready for the trash.

Everything is there for a reason.

EO

Re-read what I wrote, but slower. I used a low-pressure switch.

As for running without an amplifier I don't run one on my personal 62 either and have had the evaporator freeze only once. It was pretty apparent. The assumption is that whoever is driving these rigs (especially a highly modified one such as my customer's, who did the engine conversion himself) these days isn't a complete half-wit and understands their system to at least some degree

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Re-read what I wrote, but slower. I used a low-pressure switch.

As for running without an amplifier I don't run one on my personal 62 either and have had the evaporator freeze only once. It was pretty apparent. The assumption is that whoever is driving these rigs (especially a highly modified one such as my customer's, who did the engine conversion himself) these days isn't a complete half-wit and understands their system to at least some degree

I was writing from the perspective of the OP who is trying to figure out his system.

 

[cruisermatt]

I was writing from the perspective of the OP who is trying to figure out his system.

Ah, in that case then yes. I do think the low-pressure switch is a feature worth having - no one cant react fast enough to a hose or condenser bursting

 

[dogcruiser]

Ah, in that case then yes. I do think the low-pressure switch is a feature worth having - no one cant react fast enough to a hose or condenser bursting

I’m down for putting something in place to prevent an issue like that from arising. Amplifier or low pressure switch or whatever does the trick.

That new coil is huge compared to the other. Is that OEM? I’m guessing he’s getting much colder air now than before.

 

[dogcruiser]

View attachment 2504817View attachment 2504818
View attachment 2504821View attachment 2504820

Thanks for the photos, @cruisermatt.

 

[cruisermatt]

I’m down for putting something in place to prevent an issue like that from arising. Amplifier or low pressure switch or whatever does the trick.

That new coil is huge compared to the other. Is that OEM? I’m guessing he’s getting much colder air now than before.

yes. The bigger one is what's normally in 60's. The other one is what yours looks like.

 

[FJ40Jim]

These aftermarket AC systems normally have an adjustable low temp cutout switch. Set it so AC vent temp is above 40*F, which translates to evap core above freezing.

Looks like this, in post #1.

 

[cruisermatt]

These aftermarket AC systems normally have an adjustable low temp cutout switch. Set it so AC vent temp is above 40*F, which translates to evap core above freezing.

How many of these setups have you seen Jim? Are they all the same? This 60 was the first non-AC one I'd seen personally but it was originally sold new in Oregon. I thought I had stumbled on something pretty rare.

 

[FJ40Jim]

They arent very common. I owned one in my '82, and have seen 3? others over the years.
Seems like only the first few years of 60 that new car dealers didn't use the dealer installed or port installed OEM Denso AC kit.

 

[dogcruiser]

These aftermarket AC systems normally have an adjustable low temp cutout switch. Set it so AC vent temp is above 40*F, which translates to evap core above freezing.

Looks like this, in post #1.

Thanks Jim. I figured that’s what this was for, in one way or another. Knowing where to turn the knob is a wild guess to me. I’m guessing there some resistance value that equates to the correct temperature.