Deceleration/light throttle growl/noise help!!

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Sorry, wasn't pointing out the mistake... I genuinely don't understand driveshaft phasing.
Simply the orientation of the U joints to each other.
 
Ok care to elaborate

Ok, for the OP, if pinion angle is wrong now, doing a cut and turn might improve caster, but won't change the pinion angle.
He'd need to use caster correction to fix the pinion angle, and do a cut and turn to fix caster.


I did a cut and turn on an 80 with 4" lift and stock radius arms. ( there was no viable aftermarket alternative back in the day).
Caster was great at 4⁰, but tierod clashed hard with the radius arms. I had to modify the tierods, and the tierod connection to the steering arms.
Pinion angle was way off. That rig always had vibrations.

For the OP, swapping to lower height springs might be the most cost effective way to solve his issues.
Or, swap arms to improve pinion angle, and worsen caster, swap to DC driveshaft, swap to a part time conversion.
 
Ok, for the OP, if pinion angle is wrong now, doing a cut and turn might improve caster, but won't change the pinion angle.
He'd need to use caster correction to fix the pinion angle, and do a cut and turn to fix caster.


I did a cut and turn on an 80 with 4" lift and stock radius arms. ( there was no viable aftermarket alternative back in the day).
Caster was great at 4⁰, but tierod clashed hard with the radius arms. I had to modify the tierods, and the tierod connection to the steering arms.
Pinion angle was way off. That rig always had vibrations.

For the OP, swapping to lower height springs might be the most cost effective way to solve his issues.
Or, swap arms to improve pinion angle, and worsen caster, swap to DC driveshaft, swap to a part time conversion.
I forgot about the tie rod 😵‍💫
 
Sorry, wasn't pointing out the mistake... I genuinely don't understand driveshaft phasing.

Driveshafts are typically set up "in phase", meaning the universal joint yolks are aligned with each other at both ends of the shaft.


Out of phase means the yolks are turned 90⁰ to each other.
In phase, oscilations at both uni joints are cancelled out, hourly meaning no shaft vibrations. ( within certain practical limits).

Out of phase, the oscillations in the driveshaft at each uni joint will not cancel out, and you can expect vibrations in the shaft.

There's some good explanations on youtube
 
Thanks for the primer. I may as well just add this in case it helps anyone else. Pretty clear and simple.

driveshaft01-4020490038.webp
 
Ok, for the OP, if pinion angle is wrong now, doing a cut and turn might improve caster, but won't change the pinion angle.
He'd need to use caster correction to fix the pinion angle, and do a cut and turn to fix caster.


I did a cut and turn on an 80 with 4" lift and stock radius arms. ( there was no viable aftermarket alternative back in the day).
Caster was great at 4⁰, but tierod clashed hard with the radius arms. I had to modify the tierods, and the tierod connection to the steering arms.
Pinion angle was way off. That rig always had vibrations.

For the OP, swapping to lower height springs might be the most cost effective way to solve his issues.
Or, swap arms to improve pinion angle, and worsen caster, swap to DC driveshaft, swap to a part time conversion.
I get that it isn’t as simple as i thought it would be, but the 3-4” lift that I netted now looks like it should have stock in my opinion. I’d hate to go backward in lift height!! Other than this vibe the vehicle drives and handles great. I know it has been recommended to measure everything which I will. But it seems like I should at least give the dc drive shaft a try before i change out the delta arms/change the current caster setup.
 
I’m pretty sure the DC shaft is going to fix the issue. It has for most including me.
The mud crew has a way of making a simple fix complicated.
I didn’t read every post, did you pull the front shaft and drive it ?
 
I’m pretty sure the DC shaft is going to fix the issue. It has for most including me.
The mud crew has a way of making a simple fix complicated.
I didn’t read every post, did you pull the front shaft and drive it ?
Yes noise is gone when removed. And have had pinion bearings redone recently. How did you measure for dc shaft?
 
Yes noise is gone when removed. And have had pinion bearings redone recently. How did you measure for dc shaft?
Center of flange to Center of flange at ride hight.
Reach out to Tom woods they have a very helpful team
Or Rick @landtank you want to keep it all Toyota $
 
I’m pretty sure the DC shaft is going to fix the issue. It has for most including me.
The mud crew has a way of making a simple fix complicated.
I didn’t read every post, did you pull the front shaft and drive it ?
 
I’m pretty sure the DC shaft is going to fix the issue. It has for most including me.
The mud crew has a way of making a simple fix complicated.
I didn’t read every post, did you pull the front shaft and drive it ?
The input i am getting is that it seems like I should have gotten the delta 4 arm not 3, I could use more caster and it would improve my pinion angle and then the DC shaft would also be needed. I am at 1 degree of caster. But it drives great in my opinion. The concern is that the shaft won’t solve my problem alone.
 
The input i am getting is that it seems like I should have gotten the delta 4 arm not 3, I could use more caster and it would improve my pinion angle and then the DC shaft would also be needed. I am at 1 degree of caster. But it drives great in my opinion. The concern is that the shaft won’t solve my problem alone.
If you can get the pinion pointed at the TC output flange (+/- one degree) then the DC shaft will work and eliminate the growl. My advice is to solve the pinion angle first, otherwise the DC shaft will result if vibes. You need to figure out how many degrees off you are first, otherwise you are throwing $ at the problem.
 
If you can get the pinion pointed at the TC output flange (+/- one degree) then the DC shaft will work and eliminate the growl. My advice is to solve the pinion angle first, otherwise the DC shaft will result if vibes. You need to figure out how many degrees off you are first, otherwise you are throwing $ at the problem.
Fixing the pinion angle gonna cost me money for sure right? Have the Delta 3 arms in it and apparently they weren’t enough. Other options?? Anything I can do and keep my arms?
 
The input i am getting is that it seems like I should have gotten the delta 4 arm not 3, I could use more caster and it would improve my pinion angle and then the DC shaft would also be needed. I am at 1 degree of caster. But it drives great in my opinion. The concern is that the shaft won’t solve my problem alone.
The Delta 4 arms will point the pinyon down more.
You say you like the way it drives, so the DC shaft is the simplest fix.
 
The Kiss plan keep it simple stupid.
At 3” or more of lift you need a DC shaft or a part time kit in the transfer case.

You already have the 3” arms, you would like to keep them.
Whether you have the 3 inch or 4 inch arms you’re gonna need a DC shaft or a part time kit.
So at this point the simplest option is to get a DC shaft.
The other thing I would point out is that every truck is a little bit different and some members do fine with a stock shaft when some need a DC shaft with the same lift.
Most members report that the DC shaft fixed this issue including most that posted to this thread😉
 
The Kiss plan keep it simple stupid.
At 3” or more of lift you need a DC shaft or a part time kit in the transfer case.

You already have the 3” arms, you would like to keep them.
Whether you have the 3 inch or 4 inch arms you’re gonna need a DC shaft or a part time kit.
So at this point the simplest option is to get a DC shaft.
The other thing I would point out is that every truck is a little bit different and some members do fine with a stock shaft when some need a DC shaft with the same lift.
Most members report that the DC shaft fixed this issue including most that posted to this thread😉
Appreciate the insight and I am leaning toward your advice. Others seem to think that I gotta get the pinion angle better before buying the tw shaft? Seems like I would try the shaft first before pulling the delta arms out buying new ones etc….
 
So I've been having the same issue after using a Delta spring spacer up front to level out my Dobinson lift. I've been chasing it for a little while.

Just to recap, I'm also running stock dc's and stock arms. Never had the trucks caster checked after the lift install and I've always assumed the caster correction bushings I installed never corrected the caster enough because the truck has always wandered.. I'm probably around a 4" lift without taking the time to measure.

Order of operations based on the advice in this thread would go as follows:

- Measure lift height
-Measure pinion angles
-Unbolt front driveshaft and lock center diff to confirm vibration/growl
-Get caster checked to verify, talk to delta and figure out what arms I should order to get back within spec (+2- +4)
-Measure for new driveshafts based off of the corrected caster radius arms

Just trying to ensure I'm gonna fix this right. Thanks.
 
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