But dont you have spacers on top of the 6 inch lift?
If so than the arms will not fully correct the castor because you have more than 6 inches of lift
Death Wobble, cannot track it down
- Thread starter lt1fire
- Start date
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But dont you have spacers on top of the 6 inch lift?
If so than the arms will not fully correct the castor because you have more than 6 inches of lift
Jacket
Moderator
A relatively obvious one not mentioned - but have you checked the torque on the panhard rod bolts to make sure it's to spec (I think around 130 ft lbs)?
- Thread starter
- #23
yeah I should have put that in the first post.... everything is to spec.
- Thread starter
- #24
I would agree with that if I was running metal tech 2 inch spacers or something.
The blue slee spacer was put on after I put the bumper on and the truck sagged down a bit to try and bring it back up to 6 inches of lift. Even then I think it only netted me 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch measure from the ground to the to of the wheel arch.
I had the wobble before the spacers also.
spdwaver
Formerly Kalifornistanian
This is what has always caused my wobbling issues. In fact, I am currently due to re-tighten them.
And you would be within spec, if you had a 6" lift. But you have spacers on top of that, which means you are no longer at 6".
The caster numbers look about right for the 6" lift, plus spacers, adjusted by the arms.
Either remove the spacers (do you really need them with a 6" lift?), or get plates or bushings to adjust your caster another few degrees.
- Thread starter
- #27
but I don't, with a heavy ass bumper and winch it causes the springs to compress more and you don't have 6" anymore, the 1" spacer doesn't even add an inch to it....
I had the wobble before the spacer was added so I don't think it is my problem at all. The only reason the spacer was added was to try and counter act the stink bug from the addition of the winch and front bumper with no rear bumper.
I may do the bushings just to see.
From the list of things that you have done to this thing and you still have the wobble
I think that castor is only a small part of the problem
I bet that your housing is bent
Once you put the new axle under it I bet the wobble will be gone
One last question
You running a CV front shaft?
I think that castor is only a small part of the problem
I bet that your housing is bent
Once you put the new axle under it I bet the wobble will be gone
One last question
You running a CV front shaft?
Even still, every Cruiser is different. The same lift and correction on one may bring it back into spec, but not on the other. (Which is why the caster range is so large for spec.)
You're still left with the two choices: reduce lift height or add additional caster correction.
All that being said, I don't think caster is the cause of your death wobble.
- Thread starter
- #30
CV front shaft?? you mean DC???
The answer to that is no, but that only causes drive line vibes, which I have. Barely noticable though.
- Thread starter
- #31
I guess we will see when I swap in the new housing.
Yeah looks like i'll try a new set of plates.
Yes DC
Do you need plates
From the look of your numbers you could probably use 3 degree bushings and be fine
The plates might give you to much castor
Improving the castor angle should help. I'm not sure a bent housing would cause a wobble, but you have one, so it's worth a shot. A wobble would usually be caused by bad bushings, bearings or wheels/ tires out of true/ balance. A steering damper will only mask the problem.
if you have stinkbug, what angle is the frame sitting at? 2 deg stinkbug = 2 deg caster loss...
if you want to experiment, put in smaller rear springs, or load it up to lower the bum a bit and see if the wobble goes away with more caster.
if you want to experiment, put in smaller rear springs, or load it up to lower the bum a bit and see if the wobble goes away with more caster.
How do you figure?
Caster is determined by the distance of the front axle from the frame. The rear should have no play in it.
I would think that you need more caster. But before doing so I would take some readings on the operating angles of the front u-joints. You want to avoid falling into a spot that gives you bad vibs.
Now looking at the numbers it calcs out to 3* however you might see a little lift after adding some correction do to the spring perches being better aligned. If you did you might still be low in caster afterwards if you only add 3*.
Can you post the flare/hub measurement?
Now looking at the numbers it calcs out to 3* however you might see a little lift after adding some correction do to the spring perches being better aligned. If you did you might still be low in caster afterwards if you only add 3*.
Can you post the flare/hub measurement?
ToyotaDon
I am here
Caster is determined by the angle of the steering axis in relation to the road. Frame angle can affect caster angle.
The higher you raise the back, the more you point the front at the ground. Caster is essentially how far up or down the front axle is pointed.
A few other thoughts-
A DC shaft is a type of CV shaft. Your non-DC/CV shaft is vibrating. Remove the front shaft to eliminate that as the cause.
I have had a bad steering dampener cause death wobble on a different model vehicle (4Runner). Remove that and check it, and drive the truck and see if the wobble is worse or better.
You'll have to talk to Slee about the spacers on top of the 6 inch springs, but I can guess what he'll say. I have the same lift kit, and my fat ass hanging off the front of my truck doesn't lower it an inch.
Caster is the relationship of the steering pivot angle to the ground. Lifting the rear can affect the caster angle. Too little caster can result in instability or steering wobble.
Have you checked your wheel bearings and/or kingpin?
