Death Valley/Mojave in springtime

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The whole place sucks.

Yeah, especially Butte Valley.

Image002.webp

Image002.webp
 
Planning the same trip

Funny, I was planning on making a thread asking the same questions. Not to hijack the thread but after doing a bit of planning I figured I'd share it with you. I've never been so I've planned a lot to try an accomadate for the possible fuel contingencies and the difficulty of the trails. I picked very easy trails (other than hidden valley/hunter mountain).

I did so much to see what I can try to fit in each day.

And this is a great resource for trail info among many others. Pics of the campsite and GPS coordinates for all trails
http://www.birdandhike.com/Hike/DEVA/Camps/Homestake/_Homestake.htm



Day 1

Modesto to via 120 to Tioga Pass = 167 miles… 3 hours 16 minutes
395 S to Waucoba/Big Pine/Death Valley Rd/Saline Valley Rd = 104 miles... 2 hours 11 minutes
Big Pine/Death Valley to Warm Springs = 32.8 miles
Warm Springs to Hwy 190 = 46 miles
190-Emmigrant Camp grounds = 35.1 miles …. 42 minutes

Total Miles = 385 miles

Day 2

Emigrant Camp to Artists drive = 39 Miles…. 51 minutes
Artists Drive to Badwater Basin = 8 Miles
Badwater basin to Titus Canyon = 47 Miles…..1 hour 6 minutes
Titus Canyon = 26 miles… 3 hours (approx.)
Titus Canyon to Scotty’s Castle = 21.6 miles …
Scotty’s Castle to Ubehebe Crater = 8.6 miles… 22 minutes
Ubehebe to Racetrack = 28 Miles….1 hour
Racetrack to Drystake Camp = 2 miles

Total Miles = 164 miles


Day 3

Camp to Tea Kettle Junction = 8 miles
Tea Kettle to Hidden Valley/Hunter Mt to Saline Valley Rd to 190 = 35.2 miles
190 Home = 380 miles …. 5 hours 40 minutes

Total miles = 423.2
 
There are 4 cabins in Butte Valley that are open to the public... (You gotta find #4 - it's a secret). DEVA is a beautiful place. To test out your fj40 give the Golar Wash a try - to get up to Butte Valley. On the way up you'll get real close to the (former, burned down) Barker Ranch where the Manson family did their 'things'. So much to see and do...
 
Another question to aid all DV planners. What's the deal with camp fires. Official rule is only in fire pits but I've read other people say not at all regardless of a pit or not. And then people(including) my friend talk about having fires with no issues.
 
Day 1

Modesto to via 120 to Tioga Pass = 167 miles… 3 hours 16 minutes
395 S to Waucoba/Big Pine/Death Valley Rd/Saline Valley Rd = 104 miles... 2 hours 11 minutes
Big Pine/Death Valley to Warm Springs = 32.8 miles
Warm Springs to Hwy 190 = 46 miles
190-Emmigrant Camp grounds = 35.1 miles …. 42 minutes

Total Miles = 385 miles


LOL--This isn't close to reality at all. Tioga will likely be closed so consider but even if it isn't.

Big Pine to Warm Springs for instance--First it takes awhile to drive from Big Pine to Eureka dunes. Then you need to find Dedeckera Canyon, go up through the stairsteps to Steel Pass. Not hard just takes time.

Then descending steel pass to the Springs has gotten really chewed up due to the floods last summer. It is very slow going into the springs. Very slow. Just from the Dunes to Warm Springs will itself be roughly 4 hours.

It would be a long day just to go from Modesto to the Springs in 1 day. When I leave Sacramento around 7am, I can be at the Saline Warm Springs just before dark. And that's with stops for gas only.

The dirt roads of Death Valley are very slow going. For instance the idea of getting from Ubehebe to the Race track in an hour is not close to realistic. There will be stuff to see, there are pictures to take and the road is so rough that you'll need to air down and slow down.

DV is so great it's best to slow down, and take your time. It is a fantastic place.
 
Thanks! That's the advice I was looking for. This trip isn't gonna happen til march/April though. And I know it's not accurate. Some of the times are from trail reports and some are just guesses. I figured going through tioga pass and reaching warm springs or 190 would probably be towards the end if the day or dusk. And this would be leaving early
 
Thanks! That's the advice I was looking for. This trip isn't gonna happen til march/April though. And I know it's not accurate. Some of the times are from trail reports and some are just guesses. I figured going through tioga pass and reaching warm springs or 190 would probably be towards the end if the day or dusk. And this would be leaving early

Dude, Tioga pass doesn't open until about memorial day. Its at almost 10000'. Check the park service Morning Report for road conditions. There are websites that have less ominous reports than the CYA park service report
 
Duly noted. Thank you. I had hopes of being able to take the pass for a more direct route but I suppose flexibility is key to a successful trip.
 
I've been going to DV every year for the last 10 or so. You need to spend at least a week, or all you can basically do is hit the tourist spots.

It's best to do a circuit where you pass a gas station every few days. You'll need fuel and possibly ice if you don't have a fridge (which you should have to do this trip). You'll need to carry a lot of gas. At least an extra 5, and an extra 10 is comforting.

For the first trip down from the north, I'd do something like this:

Big Pine to Eureka Dunes, then over Steel Pass to the Springs.

Springs then south on Saline Valley and up Lippencott to the Race Track.

Race Track to Tea Kettle Junction, then up into Hidden Valley. Tons to see and do in Hidden Valley. Then over Hunter Mountain and back to the Saline Valley road, and out to Hwy 190. Left turn and you're in Panamint Springs for gas. That will be about 3 days with no fuel so plan accordingly.

Gas will be cruelly expensive at Panamint, but fill up everything you can. If you run out that gas will seem cheap.

Head south on Panamint Valley road and drive to the "town" Ballarat. It's mostly a settlement of a bunch of old trash/wrecked trailers and standing in the town square is Tex Watson's(of Manson gang fame) old Power Wagon.

Travel south from Ballarat to Goler Wash. Up Goler to Mengel Pass. This is a super great traverse and not to be missed. Descend Mengel and find a place to stay in Butte Valley. You can stay at one of the cabins if open or camp away from the road. I like to camp in Coyote Canyon at the old mine, but lots of places to stay. Hike to the top of the Butte for a killer view.

From there it's down Warm Springs Canyon back to Death Valley itself. Turn left at the pavement and go get gas 40 miles north in Furnace Creek. Panamint to Goler/Mengel and to Furnace Creek is at least 2 days. While there is water (usually) in Butte Valley at the Geologist's Cabin, there is no gas after you leave Panamint.

Since you've used up 5 days already, I'd probably drive pavement to Rhyolite, check that out and then come back into Death Valley via Titus Canyon. Titus Canyon is 1 way (down hill) only, so you have to drive to the upper end of it which is very close to Rhyolite. It's easy but spectacular. Once back in Death Valley, head north to Crankshaft Junction (you can visit my FJ40's Crankshaft there)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mlQWrBN5D4

From there you can roll back down the "Death Valley Road" to Big Pine and then head north for home. That will use up your week. Remember it's only an intro to what's there, but it's a very good start to learning the place.
 
Last edited:
A word about gas. Get it when you can. Panamint Springs was mentioned, gas was 5.50 when I went thru over thanksgiving. Stovepipe wells is the cheapest in dv (park concession) while furnace creek is private property and more expensive. If u are going to rhyolite, detour five miles and hit Beatty Nevada for really cheap gas.
 
I will say, being in and FJ40 with no aux fuel tank I'm a bit concerned about the fuel myself. I do plan on bringing all three of my jerry cans that are serviceable. Working on getting a bumper built to help with storing them easier too.

Thanks for all the suggestions. It's very helpful to hear from people who have been there and have the same mindset about it as me... too many of the sites I've been using for research are hiking or biking or whatever sites and not really helpful for driving information.

From what I can tell, it pretty much seems like the roads are not going to be 45 year FJ40 friendly so it's all going to be slow going, that's fun to me though. I enjoy the experience of being out there more then getting to checkpoints on a list.

Tempered117.. do you have any dates for your trip yet? We've going the 12-19th of April or somewhere in that week. Since I am decided to go to school for one more semester, it's my spring break week and I didn't really want to go during spring break, thinking there would be more people there, but also didn't want to miss school or have my brother and sister in law have to miss school either if they come with us. If down there around the same time it would be cool to meet up.

Anyway, thanks again for the info. Working hard this week actually on cruiser prep. Got to get it all done early... I don't like the week before we go somewhere freakin' out trying to get it all done.. TRYING this time around to have all the repair/upgrade stuff done by the end of Feb.

Building a bumper and roof rack. Also some MOLLE pouch storage panels for the rollbar.
Replace all the fluids. Elsie's way overdue for oil changes in the diffs and transfer case.
Repack bearings, check brakes, ect.
I think I am going to take it to shop to finally get the carb tuned correctly.. I can't seem to get it right and am tired of messing with it. :(
Replace electric fan with a better one.
Fix a million little broken things here and there that annoy me.
Build a tool box/storage box in the back.
Finally mount my Tuffy center console.


Yeah... got my work cut out for me. But it will be worth it. :)
 
I'm with Cruiserdrew... The trip he outlined is doable and fun and beautiful. You gotta take your time and plan for problems (give yourself 2 days wiggle room).

My favorite cabin in Butte Valley is Russell camp for isolation and Geologists cabin for scenic wonder & visits from other travelers. Striped Butte is awesome... See if you can find the 'vent' from a cave/cavern...
 
P.S. The DEVA backcountry roads are the perfect place for your 40. I had a 64 that loved the terrain. It's the washboard on the gravel roads that will mess you up. Just keep it slow...
 
For Hiary_Apple

That's a ton of work to get done while going to school and everything else.

If your 55 runs well, just take that and forget all the jazz with the 40. I took my 40 down there twice. It's is a huge drive down there and back in a 40. It was fun once there, but so is anything you bring.

With your 55 you don't need bumpers, can carriers, roof racks etc. You just need gas and go. Throw your gear in the back. THe danger is you'll spend all that time and money on the 40 and then miss the trip because you're broke or out of time or behind in school. The important thing here is the trip, not the vehicle.
 
The 55 needs a motor... which I have already but it's not in yet... and it's never run so it's a new to me truck once the new motor goes in. So it's kind of a toss up on which one is more work. The 40 I would drive right now as it is... I just WANT to do a lot of that stuff. The 40 I know and trust and have built or repaired or at least seen 99.9% of the parts on it and anytime I've had an issue with the 40 I've known almost instantly what it was and how to fix it. My wife thought I was nuts the other day because I was freaking out over a rattle... I kept asking her if she heard that rattle... she said "yeah.. the whole truck rattles". It ended up being a soda can that was under the seat blowing around in the wind (doors were off). But the point is.. I know the 40 well enough to know any out of place noises or issues. The 55.. while it shares enough with the 40 I feel I could quickly figure things out, I have no idea about a lot of it. I'd have no idea where to start looking if it quit running going down the road. I just would feel better getting to know it first before taking it on a long drive.

That being said.... it's like 3 times bigger then the 40 and we could sleep in the back if we wanted to. I have a rebuilt F and a 101K 2F sitting in my parents garage... I'm sure they would be very happy if I took one them out and put it in my cruiser sooner then later. :)

I figured a solid weekend of work, maybe two and my wife and I can knock out the important stuff. The rest of it will be comfort and ease more then need.

The other big factor, is the jerry can mounts, and a few other things are products I'm hoping to start selling once we have the bugs worked out. I figured getting beat on washboard roads is a pretty good test for some of the stuff we're designing.
 
Last edited:
You will get washboard on the way to the racetrack. 4 or 40, only way to go.
 
I've been going to DV every year for the last 10 or so. You need to spend at least a week, or all you can basically do is hit the tourist spots. It's best to do a circuit where you pass a gas station every few days. You'll need fuel and possibly ice if you don't have a fridge (which you should have to do this trip). You'll need to carry a lot of gas. At least an extra 5, and an extra 10 is comforting. For the first trip down from the north, I'd do something like this: Big Pine to Eureka Dunes, then over Steel Pass to the Springs. Springs then south on Saline Valley and up Lippencott to the Race Track. Race Track to Tea Kettle Junction, then up into Hidden Valley. Tons to see and do in Hidden Valley. Then over Hunter Mountain and back to the Saline Valley road, and out to Hwy 190. Left turn and you're in Panamint Springs for gas. That will be about 3 days with no fuel so plan accordingly. Gas will be cruelly expensive at Panamint, but fill up everything you can. If you run out that gas will seem cheap. Head south on Panamint Valley road and drive to the "town" Ballarat. It's mostly a settlement of a bunch of old trash/wrecked trailers and standing in the town square is Tex Watson's(of Manson gang fame) old Power Wagon. Travel south from Ballarat to Goler Wash. Up Goler to Mengel Pass. This is a super great traverse and not to be missed. Descend Mengel and find a place to stay in Butte Valley. You can stay at one of the cabins if open or camp away from the road. I like to camp in Coyote Canyon at the old mine, but lots of places to stay. Hike to the top of the Butte for a killer view. From there it's down Warm Springs Canyon back to Death Valley itself. Turn left at the pavement and go get gas 40 miles north in Furnace Creek. Panamint to Goler/Mengel and to Furnace Creek is at least 2 days. While there is water (usually) in Butte Valley at the Geologist's Cabin, there is no gas after you leave Panamint. Since you've used up 5 days already, I'd probably drive pavement to Rhyolite, check that out and then come back into Death Valley via Titus Canyon. Titus Canyon is 1 way (down hill) only, so you have to drive to the upper end of it which is very close to Rhyolite. It's easy but spectacular. Once back in Death Valley, head north to Crankshaft Junction (you can visit my FJ40's Crankshaft there) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mlQWrBN5D4 From there you can roll back down the "Death Valley Road" to Big Pine and then head north for home. That will use up your week. Remember it's only an intro to what's there, but it's a very good start to learning the place.

Cool video. Sounds like a fun trip.
 
There's nothing like a deadline to help sharpen your focus! Sounds like your 40 is the way to go. You'll have a blast. Good luck!
 
Back
Top Bottom