Dead Cruiser at Cahaba

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Fuel pump replaced still no start. I still don't hear the fuel pump priming for the start. Anyone ever experienced a bad efi relay but still getting a check engine light?

Or does anyone have multimeter I might borrow to check voltages and what not?
 
Might be time to start a thread in the H80's section....
 
So let's hypothetically of course say that I just got around to seeing if I had spark and as best I can tell I don't. If one were to come to this conclusion hypothetically of course what might the course of action be?

Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, or dig deeper?

Hypothetically I pulled the number two plug and got no spark trying to jump back to the plug. I can't swear that I did it right but I was thinking that it should've jumped if there was a charge.
 
Go buy one of those $4 visible spark testers.

edit: sorry, $6.99 at autozone
 
Those exist? See this is why I bring my problems to the forum. I know this that several things that I probably should have like a multi-meter, visible spark tester, and some pm things that I should've already done will be by the time this is all said and done.
 
Run down to your local parts store, Napa/autozone/oreillys/advance, and tell them you want one of the ignition/spark testers. It may look like a screw driver with a cord. It wrks best at night so that you can see the light in it when you turn the ignition over.
 
Funny you say that as I turned all the lights out in my garage while holding onto the plug wire as my daughter turned the bitch over.
 
For automotive use and checking if you've got voltage, this DMM would be fine. I wouldn't go doing anything critical like detailed integrated circuit testing requiring major tight tolerance measurements, but for basic 12v stuff it would be fine.

http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html

I'd drop a Jackson on one of those and keep it in the tool bag.

I've got one I can bring to the meeting tomorrow though if you want to borrow it.
 
Keith if you see this if you could bring the multimeter I would appreciate it.
 
So update on my current situation. Following the advice given by fellow DLC members I am following the FSM. I was able to determine that the ignitor coil is bad. Replaced and still no start. I am left with it being the distributor, the ignition switch itself, or the ignitor. I have ordered an ignitor off of Ebay (OEM). I am assuming that the ignition switch works because the engine turns over it just doesn't fire over.
 
How old is the cap and rotor? I'd hate for it to not be firing becuase if that... but then, wouldn't the tool you purchased be showing no fire at the spark plugs if it were the cap n rotor?
I'm just a computer tech, I just play a mechanic on TV...
 
No clue honestly. I've never replaced it. I will check spark again from the ingitor using the FSM way. I connected the spark tester in line from the ignitor to the dist. cap.

Still no spark using the FSM method.
 
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What size paper clip is needed to pull CE codes?
 
Yeah, I was getting ready to post "is this a joke"?
Any size that can be opened up and poked down into the leads... So basically, you got a paper clip? Then it will work. Obviously not a plastic coated paper clip...
 
Okay I will check to see if we use the OIC brand non-skid bright plate #1 size here at work. I don't need my truck exploding.
 
Okay so an update on the BFB. She still doesn't start and at this point I have replaced the fuel pump, ingniter coil, igniter, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, plug wires, EFI relay, and fusible links. I am still not getting any spark at the coil. I am at a loss currently. I have checked the connections that I can trace and they all appear to be good. I have 12+ volts at the ingniter coil. I don't know where else to look. I am beginning to feel like I have a short or bad connection somewhere but am at a loss as to where to look.
 

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