DBA Rotors Out Of Stock In The US

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Not trying to argue, but NJ is pretty flat too. (I grew up in the Philly Area) What people in the valley consider hills are a bump comapred to the hills we have out here in CA. No warped rotors on my 100. My daily drive includes 3500 feet of elevation gain and decent each way. You sure that something else is not causing the warping? Doesn't seem right.[/QUOTE


South Jersey may be flat... but I live in North Jersey in the Ramapo mountains I understand it's not what the rockies... but I'm sure it's the daily trips riding the pedal down skyline drive thats part of the problem. It's not just the LC but my F-350 Superduty and Grand Cherokee suffer the same problem after awhile.

This is the road... it's the Rockies of New Jersey lol...

Skyline Drive (New Jersey)From Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search
Skyline Drive
Maintained by Passaic and Bergen Counties

Skyline Drive is a 5.76-mile[1][2] long road in Northern New Jersey, between Interstate 287 in Oakland, Bergen County and County Route 511 in Ringwood, Passaic County, passing through Ringwood State Park in the Ramapo Mountains. It is a major route for those in the Ringwood and Wanaque area to get to Interstate 287. The road is also known as County Route S91 in Bergen County and County Route 692 in Passaic County. County Route S91 continues south for 0.73 miles[1] from the southern terminus of Skyline Drive on West Oakland Avenue to U.S. Route 202.

The road offers a brief view of the Manhattan skyline, 20 miles (32 km) away, while heading southbound. The steep and narrow road is often impassable in winter due to ice and snow. As of April 1, 2001, the New Jersey Department of Transportation imposed a ban on trucks exceeding 10 tons from using Skyline Drive. This ban follows an incident in December 2000, in which three Ringwood residents were killed by a 40-ton dump truck that had lost control on the roadway and fell to its side.
 
Last edited:
Keep in mind that most 'warping' isn't warping at all but rather uneven deposits of friction material from the pads onto the rotors. ...
I know Spresso was able to find remedy by sanding the rotors with garnet paper (sandpaper without silicone binders) to remove the excess pad material.

a few months after i went through the break system upgrade i started reading some threads on this topic. i wish i had this knowledge before my upgrade, i would have gladly given it a shot. i definitely will do so if i ever begin to detect signs of "warping" of my ARTs or any other vehicle.
 
I spend alot of time towing in the hills of Arkansas,they are not small, and Ive never had a Toyota bumper warp. MIke
 
Last edited:
Not trying to argue, but NJ is pretty flat too. (I grew up in the Philly Area) What people in the valley consider hills are a bump comapred to the hills we have out here in CA. No warped rotors on my 100. My daily drive includes 3500 feet of elevation gain and decent each way. You sure that something else is not causing the warping? Doesn't seem right.[/QUOTE


South Jersey may be flat... but I live in North Jersey in the Ramapo mountains I understand it's not what the rockies... but I'm sure it's the daily trips riding the pedal down skyline drive thats part of the problem. It's not just the LC but my F-350 Superduty and Grand Cherokee suffer the same problem after awhile.

This is the road... it's the Rockies of New Jersey lol...

Skyline Drive (New Jersey)From Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search
Skyline Drive
Maintained by Passaic and Bergen Counties

Skyline Drive is a 5.76-mile[1][2] long road in Northern New Jersey, between Interstate 287 in Oakland, Bergen County and County Route 511 in Ringwood, Passaic County, passing through Ringwood State Park in the Ramapo Mountains. It is a major route for those in the Ringwood and Wanaque area to get to Interstate 287. The road is also known as County Route S91 in Bergen County and County Route 692 in Passaic County. County Route S91 continues south for 0.73 miles[1] from the southern terminus of Skyline Drive on West Oakland Avenue to U.S. Route 202.

The road offers a brief view of the Manhattan skyline, 20 miles (32 km) away, while heading southbound. The steep and narrow road is often impassable in winter due to ice and snow. As of April 1, 2001, the New Jersey Department of Transportation imposed a ban on trucks exceeding 10 tons from using Skyline Drive. This ban follows an incident in December 2000, in which three Ringwood residents were killed by a 40-ton dump truck that had lost control on the roadway and fell to its side.

Stop. It's 900 feet of elevation above sea level at it's peak.. Borough of Ringwood, New Jersey - About Ringwood Hardly the rockies of the North East.

The road I am referring to is 4000 feet of gain or descent in 6 miles... a lot of the other Hundred owners here on the forum climb and descend MUCH steeper hills on a daily basis and don't "warp" rotors. What kind of pads do you run? Braking style? Do you turn off OD going downhill?
 
Stop. It's 900 feet of elevation above sea level at it's peak.. Borough of Ringwood, New Jersey - About Ringwood Hardly the rockies of the North East.

The road I am referring to is 4000 feet of gain or descent in 6 miles... a lot of the other Hundred owners here on the forum climb and descend MUCH steeper hills on a daily basis and don't "warp" rotors. What kind of pads do you run? Braking style? Do you turn off OD going downhill?

I know how high it is and that you guys drive over much bigger hills.... cmon thats a big hill for us flatlanders. What I'm saying is most people around here who travel this road on a daily basis (sometimes 6-7 times a day i'm back and forth over the hill) all have brake rotor problems... the local repair shops love it. Again I have it on all my vehicles not just my LC... so that is why I think I should look for a better rotor than OEM, something that will run cooler but have been warned not to use drilled cause they are more prone to cracking... is this true?
 
I would stay away from drilled. Slotted can help to keep the pads/rotors cleaner. If you want a better rotor than stock, the DBA is nice and has more metal in the cooling fins than a normal rotor helping to prevent issues. Pad choice becomes very important also, what kind do you run? I would go with a DBA ceramic. Also do you take the time to bed in your pads properly? Can make a world of difference.
 
I have been running OEM semi metalic pads... I was told ceramic will run cooler is this true? I do break the pads in... please explain "bed in" technique... thanks for the help.
 
I have been running OEM semi metalic pads... I was told ceramic will run cooler is this true? I do break the pads in... please explain "bed in" technique... thanks for the help.

Switch to a ceramic pad. Below is the Hawk bed in procedure.

There are other procedures out there.

Good Luck.


  1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
  2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
  3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
  4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
  5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
 
Well can't wait for the DBA rotors so I ordered OEMs maybe next time around... thanks for all the help and info.
 
Ok...been out of touch for a couple weeks...just got back from a 4,300 mile foray. The Stoptech Big Brake Kit up front (rear's are not available yet) just keeps amazing me!

I'll post up my front ART rotors in the Classifieds...after SnT next week ;). They have right at 100k miles on them and only a few thousandths wear.

A couple years ago due to the increased cost of Porterfield brake pads I opted to try Centric Ceramics at all four corners (with the ART rotors). Beyond the attractiveness of being 1/4 of the price they didn't impress. In fact at the time I installed the Stoptech kit up front I found several of the Centric's pads had heat/stress cracks. I'm positive this is what was responsible for the pad transfer to the ART's. Cheap is and cheap gets. At the time of the Stoptech install I overhauled the rear calipers, garnet paper'd the rear ART rotors and installed new Porterfields once again on the rear. Perfect once again!

Everyone has a different idea of what works and what doesn't. My rig's loaded rolling weight is just under 8,000lbs. And with the KK in tow its over 10,000lbs. Granted the KK has electric drum brakes but better brakes on the towing rig are never a negative ;). I've never been satisfied with the brakes on my 100. Yes the ART/Porterfield combo went along way providing significantly better peak braking power. But based on over 5,500 miles now on the Stoptech's I'd buy them again no question whatsoever. They're worth every penny for those seeking: More peak power with significantly better modulation along with incredibly firm and high pedal position. Based on my testing to date I want no more for better braking*.

*The only slight negative I can come up with regarding the Stoptechs: The pads dust more than the Porterfields and/or the Centrics. And they do squeak a little now and then. But not enough to make me go back :)
 
Back
Top Bottom