It will not work on the US 200 Series. Ours do not have the required red wire in the picture below. You could get a set of headlights from the middle east that are bi-xenon and have the red wire (I'm seriously considering it...) take a look at this thread.
It will not work on the US 200 Series. Ours do not have the required red wire in the picture below. You could get a set of headlights from the middle east that are bi-xenon and have the red wire (I'm seriously considering it...) take a look at this thread.
I believe the wire colors are different for the US spec lights. That red wire is for the headlight levelling motor. Looks like you only have 7 wires - you are missing a wire on the bottom rightmost pin of the connector. The eighth wire on the bottom rightmost pin is for the LED DRL 8 watt mode.
I believe the wire colors are different for the US spec lights. That red wire is for the headlight levelling motor. Looks like you only have 7 wires - you are missing a wire on the bottom rightmost pin of the connector. The eigth wire on the bottom rightmost pin is for the LED DRL 8 watt mode.
They say the DLK303 kit will fit 200 series Land Cruisers with HID lights manufactured between January 2013 and August 2015 that have a red wire in position 5 of that connector (which mine does). It says the kit will not fit any connector that has a red wire with a white stripe in position 5 (which mine does not).
They say the DLK303 kit will fit 200 series Land Cruisers with HID lights manufactured between January 2013 and August 2015 that have a red wire in position 5 of that connector (which mine does). It says the kit will not fit any connector that has a red wire with a white stripe in position 5 (which mine does not).
I just retrofitted the 2013 lights to my 2011 so I did a lot of research. That 8 pin connector has three wires going to the levelling motor, two wires to the low beam HID ballast, and two wires to the LED strip. The eight wire is the one missing that needs to connect to the LED.
Another way to know is to check if you have more than two wires going inside the headlight in the second photo. If you only have two then those are just for the LED + and negative. The other two wires are for the LED HI and bixenon shutter
I just retrofitted the 2013 lights to my 2011 so I did a lot of research. That 8 pin connector has three wires going to the levelling motor, two wires to the low beam HID ballast, and two wires to the LED strip. The eight wire is the one missing that needs to connect to the LED.
Another way to know is to check if you have more than two wires going inside the headlight in the second photo. If you only have two then those are just for the LED + and negative. The other two wires are for the LED HI and bixenon shutter
Like I said, it appears the US assemblies have different wire colors. Also, in your photo, the red wire is in position 5 of the vehicle side harness. The red wire in the beat sonic photo is shown on the headight side of the harness, which would put that wire in position 8 of the vehicle side harness.
Here's how I activated the LED DRL when I retrofitted the 2013 headlights. I used two SPDT relays from Amazon. In my VDJ200 there was an unused plug in front of the battery that would get +12v with the key in position 2 so I used that to trigger the DRL relay
Use at your own risk, I assume no responsibility for any injuries, deaths or damage
Okay so I managed to get my hands on a US-spec 2013-2015 headlight. I can confirm that there is no way to get the LED strip to run at high brightness DRL mode using the DLK303. You will have to replace the driver and probably the LEDs themselves. The LED strip housing is labeled as "US JP CHN ME" so I'm guessing JDM, Chinese and Middle East spec headlights have the same LED unit. It's also probably safe to assume that the LED strip on the US spec 2016-up headlights are "nerfed" as well