Day 2 of ownership. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 3, 2024
Threads
1
Messages
29
Location
beaufort, sc
Ive have been looking for a solid fzj80 for a while. I started my search for a 95-97 thinking this would be the best with hopes of scoring a great deal. What I found is $$!
I found one that seemed the best deal I would get. Needed some work but by and large an unmolested stock blank slate with only a 1” lift and no other additions. Needed some work (oil pressure sensor was not working, some oil leak, some rust, fading paint…). The guy asked I pay with cash or certified check. I was at the bank and didn’t get a response as to what name to put on it so I did the next best thing and drew out over $10k (requires a form). About an hour later he tells me he sold it for $500 more than our agreed on price to someone local (I was going to drive 3 hours to get it the next day). This was Wednesday.
I was sad at first then started looking again that evening to find what you see below. Better shape, less KNOWN issues, and made the 4 hour drive home flawlessly. I feel I should thank the guy for selling the other one but I don’t know he deserves it.
I’m on day two of ownership and the first thing I had to do what replace the wipers (it looked like smeared jelly).
Next step is a full fluids flush and hose replacement. Some of the hoses (PCV) seem so hard that I don’t think it is normal. Others are brittle and crumble when touched. Small oil leak from the oil pump cover.
Any other advice would be great. I’m happy to be here. Finding a bunch of useful info.

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Welcome to Mud! Good looking color. What are your plans for the cruiser?
I like the stock look so I don’t know if I have any near future plans with that.
First off will be hoses and fluids along with the oil pump seal. Also have a bunch of dash light out. “D”, “L”, O/D, CEL, not sure what light come on with 4 low but I don’t get any there rather. Need to figure that out so I can get the CEL. That’s most important to me.
I’ve heard of LEDs working but I haven’t found a solid informational on it yet. Seems like people make the. Whatever color they want. Would be nice to get a rebuild kit with all the original colors.
 
Welcome to mud 😜

Wow great looking rig !

I’m going to assume that’s fresh paint 👀 so good.
There no flares or roof rack and unless someone changed the grill it’s a 93 or 94 based on the 16” wheels.

More pictures and information please

I’m glad you got a better rig !!

But I just don’t understand people today a man/ persons word should mean something/ everything

Not to long ago my daughter was selling her car someone offered her full price but couldn’t come tell the next day and she agreed.
Later that night someone else call and offer more money, She came to me and asked what she should do.
I told her it was up to her but she had given her word and that should mean something.
I was very proud of her when she kept her word and sold it as agreed. 💪
 
Welcome to mud 😜

Wow great looking rig !

I’m going to assume that’s fresh paint 👀 so good.
There no flares or roof rack and unless someone changed the grill it’s a 93 or 94 based on the 16” wheels.

More pictures and information please

I’m glad you got a better rig !!

But I just don’t understand people today a man/ persons word should mean something/ everything

Not to long ago my daughter was selling her car someone offered her full price but couldn’t come tell the next day and she agreed.
Later that night someone else call and offer more money, She came to me and asked what she should do.
I told her it was up to her but she had given her word and that should mean something.
I was very proud of her when she kept her word and sold it as agreed. 💪
It is a 94. Late model I’m guessing. Carfax had 12 miles on it in February of 1995 and shows manufactures and shipped on 12/14/1994.
I do have the flats and whatever hardware he had. Have an extra from flare for one of the side as well and they are all painted as well.
Missing one of the hub covers for the center of the rim. It will be hard to match the aged wheels.
The guy I got it from was honest for sure. When I didn’t see the CEL during the start up video I asked about it. He said it didn’t come on. Being and OBDI I expressed my concern. He knocked $500 off for the unknown.
Here are some pictures I’ve taken so far. I had someone else drive it the 4 hours home because he couldn’t drive the other car (manual).
Happy to be here and excited to learn.

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Welcome and many happy days ahead! Day like 10,950 of ownership since 1994 here and still smiling.

Truck looks great as does the buck in that last picture checking you out.
:)
 
Welcome and many happy days ahead! Day like 10,950 of ownership since 1994 here and still smiling.

Truck looks great as does the buck in that last picture checking you out.
:)
I didn’t notice the buck 🤣 I am still smiling but have a lot to do for maintenance just to be sure. I figured full synthetic oil would be better and they put blend in it. Going to do all fluids and vacuum/coolant hoses in the near future as well.
I want to get a good baseline or whatever the word is for first full “go over”.
I also have some excessive play in the steering. Kind of really have to do a lot of steering while driving. Found the tie rod ends on the back side (wheel to wheel) are really loose so I’ll start there with all new TREs to tackle the problem.
I’ve been looking at the forums and already for a digital FSM.
Thanks again for welcoming.
 
If you haven't found the FSM already, go to the RESOURCES section in the drop down forum menu.

If tie rod ends are noticeably loose, Replace all if them.
555 do decent quality kits. Or Cruiserteq.com will probably have kits too.

If your steering is loose, make it a priority to check front wheel bearings for play.

AND check steering arm nuts on the underside of the knuckles. This is a critical failure waiting to happen if they are loose
 
If you haven't found the FSM already, go to the RESOURCES section in the drop down forum menu.

If tie rod ends are noticeably loose, Replace all if them.
555 do decent quality kits. Or Cruiserteq.com will probably have kits too.

If your steering is loose, make it a priority to check front wheel bearings for play.

AND check steering arm nuts on the underside of the knuckles. This is a critical failure waiting to happen if they are loose
I can grab the steering link in the back and rotate it back and forth with no effort. I planned on doing all 4 ends and depending on what the damper looks like do that as well.
Honestly I haven’t had the truck up yet to check the wheels. I have papers from the front axle being rebuilt so I would assume (yes I know, this is a bad idea) that there is no problem there.
With factory height (no lift) are the 555 or others an viable option over OEM?
 
A lot of people remove the flairs and roof rack and filling the holes is a job, so your ahead of the game there.

94 is a good year

Tie rod ends are not affected by lift. 555 are good and I'm running them.
 
@slow95z parts out 80s and should have a center cap for you.

Does you rig have cloth ?
 
I can grab the steering link in the back and rotate it back and forth with no effort.
this isn't necessarily an issue. They are a ball joint, so will rotate in any axis.
It's hard to inspect them. Best to have someone rotate the steering wheel back and forth while you watch for free play at the TREs. They can be worn enough to affect steering, but not worn enough to see much play.
I planned on doing all 4 ends and depending on what the damper looks like do that as well.
if there's no service records of TREs being changed, definitely something to have on your to do list.
Damper, put it looooooow on the list, unless there's a clear issue with it. I haven't had a damper on my cruiser for years.
Honestly I haven’t had the truck up yet to check the wheels. I have papers from the front axle being rebuilt so I would assume (yes I know, this is a bad idea) that there is no problem there.
Never assume that someone elses work is good, unless you know and trust the abilities of the person who did the work.
Front wheel bearings are super easy to check, and after learning how to adjust them, they can be tightened in 30 minutes per side.
Loose wheel bearings will absolutely leave steering feeling loose and vague.

With factory height (no lift) are the 555 or others an viable option over OEM?
555 are a standard replacement part. They are OEM quality IMO
 
this isn't necessarily an issue. They are a ball joint, so will rotate in any axis.
It's hard to inspect them. Best to have someone rotate the steering wheel back and forth while you watch for free play at the TREs. They can be worn enough to affect steering, but not worn enough to see much play.

if there's no service records of TREs being changed, definitely something to have on your to do list.
Damper, put it looooooow on the list, unless there's a clear issue with it. I haven't had a damper on my cruiser for years.

Never assume that someone elses work is good, unless you know and trust the abilities of the person who did the work.
Front wheel bearings are super easy to check, and after learning how to adjust them, they can be tightened in 30 minutes per side.
Loose wheel bearings will absolutely leave steering feeling loose and vague.


555 are a standard replacement part. They are OEM quality IMO
Lots of good info here. Thank you.
I’ll look up how to adjust/tighten the wheel bearings and check mine.
 
I like to use a paper FSM they can be found on Ebay

If you need to reset the front wheel bearings disregard what the FSM tells you set the inner nut to 35 lbs and the lock nut to 45lbs this is well documented here.
 
It appears to be the same color mine was in it's glory days. Being an Arizona vehicle the paint I like to call has been sun kissed.

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And before I lifted it, sitting on 315/75-16


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