- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks....Yes, through the rear crossmember. I’m not looking for a ton of capacity on this one. Just more annoying to not have the ability for little things that pop up. The other truck will get a better system built
Dave's Cruiser Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ Noob
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Thanks....Yes, through the rear crossmember. I’m not looking for a ton of capacity on this one. Just more annoying to not have the ability for little things that pop up. The other truck will get a better system built
- Thread starter
- #42
Does anyone here have personal experience rebuilding your trans and x-fer case (4-speed in an FJ60)? I’ve been researching and reading up on it and it doesn’t seem overly difficult with the correct tools.
I've not rebuilt that transmission, but the split case is super easy.
Yeah, a press and appropriate bearing pullers. I just remembered there is one tricky bit with the needle bearing in the end of the shaft. IIRC, I would up splitting the cage with some screwdrivers and a BFH.
I haven't been into a H42, but you do need some special pullers to get it apart.
Split case is easy with a press, but possible with hammers and punches.
Split case is easy with a press, but possible with hammers and punches.
- Thread starter
- #47
Well...after consulting the FSM, tackling the trans might be beyond worthwhile considering the tools required. Anyone have a recommendation for a good shop that would be willing/able to work on an old 60 transmission? I've called around and have been referred to Steve, the owner of Auto Performance Center in Garner. I plan on stopping in on Monday to talk to him.
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- #48
Well, Steve wasn’t willing to do the work. He doesn’t think the H42 will be able to handle a SBC swap. I found a local shop with good reviews. I’ll probably be going with them.
On a separate note...will a 33” tire still fit under the gas tank on the factory spare holder?
On a separate note...will a 33” tire still fit under the gas tank on the factory spare holder?
33" tire should fit underneath.
H42 will handle a mild sbc no problem.
H42 will handle a mild sbc no problem.
- Thread starter
- #50
When I was installing some under-hood lights tonight, I removed the insulation pad to get wires back there. I noticed that my hood outer skin has separated from where it was glued to the support struts at the factory. Has anyone here re-glued your hood or roof back to the supports..if so, what adhesive did you use?
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I've done both, used panel adhesive. I believe that it was an SEM product.
- Thread starter
- #52
Thanks...I know the products are out there, half the time I’m just not sure what they’re called so it’s hard to search.
- Thread starter
- #53
Ok folks...semi real-time project question here. I’m pulling my first engine today. 1985 FJ60. Just pulling the motor by itself, not motor and trans. Searched threads and read up, but didn’t see any pics to confirm I was understanding exactly what they were saying.
Where I’m at currently: I’ve removed the hood, front fenders, radiator, front grill assembly in it’s entirety. Disconnected radiator lines, ground straps, and electrical lines that attach to the motor. Loosened motor mounts. Have the clutch inspection cover off.
From here?? .... attach lift chains to hooks, place jack to help support trans. Unbolt motor from transmission; is it the 4 big bolts I can see inside the clutch disc housing on the trans side threading in from rear to front (might be easier to remove front driveshaft to get to the bolt heads)? Start lifting and moving out; work slowly and watch for hang ups?
It was getting dark so I couldn’t really see, but where do I disconnect the clutch fork?
Withall the body stuff out of the way, a 2 ton crane, and load leveler, it should be pretty straightforward right?
What am I missing?
Where I’m at currently: I’ve removed the hood, front fenders, radiator, front grill assembly in it’s entirety. Disconnected radiator lines, ground straps, and electrical lines that attach to the motor. Loosened motor mounts. Have the clutch inspection cover off.
From here?? .... attach lift chains to hooks, place jack to help support trans. Unbolt motor from transmission; is it the 4 big bolts I can see inside the clutch disc housing on the trans side threading in from rear to front (might be easier to remove front driveshaft to get to the bolt heads)? Start lifting and moving out; work slowly and watch for hang ups?
It was getting dark so I couldn’t really see, but where do I disconnect the clutch fork?
Withall the body stuff out of the way, a 2 ton crane, and load leveler, it should be pretty straightforward right?
What am I missing?
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I do not know the entirety of your project but I can tell you this much, it is much easier (at least for me) to pull motor/trans/T case together then split it while out. Your crane can handle it and with the front clip off the truck you have great access. Just food for thought, plenty of different ways to skin a cat.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Yes, disconnect both drive shafts, drop cross member, remove shifters. I use a rolling ATV jack under the T case and it rolls with the crane as you pull it forward. A moving dolly can do the same thing.
Getting the motor out by itself is much easier than putting it back in and getting everything all lined up with the trans into the pressure plate and pilot bearing while under the truck.
Getting the motor out by itself is much easier than putting it back in and getting everything all lined up with the trans into the pressure plate and pilot bearing while under the truck.
- Thread starter
- #57
I’m pulling the motor for a buyer that coming by this evening. After that, I’ll be working on stripping everything down and doing the body work.
Trans bolts are the four going from rear to front as you referred to them. Disconnect the clutch by unbolting the two bolts holding the slave cylinder to the bellhousing and letting it hang.
Rest of the wires, fuel lines, coolant lines you missed will become self apparent when you start lifting. Go slow, check for snags, you'll be fine.
Rest of the wires, fuel lines, coolant lines you missed will become self apparent when you start lifting. Go slow, check for snags, you'll be fine.
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- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks guys. That was pretty easy. Took about and hour and a half by myself. I’m an hour ahead of schedule. I might be able to just get this on a pallet for the buyer and he can just turn and burn. Cool.
- Thread starter
- #60
WELL..... I never got this engine to run. I jumped the starter straight off the battery to get compression numbers. Other than a massive amount of oil leaking out of every seal, all indications were that it was in pretty good shape. I found a buyer, but went kind of low considering it had not run.
While I had the motor on a pallet and was waiting for the buyer to show up, I pulled the dash and decided to start taking out all the crazy wiring that was in there from what looked like multiple sound system setup attempts. While pulling wires, I stuck my hand up into the harness way back where it exits the column clamshell. This is 10 minutes before the buyer shows up.
THERE WAS A MF’ING KILL SWITCH!!!!
It was literally the smallest toggle switch you can buy and it was tucked into the wiring harness. Oh well. The plan was still going to be for a swap and at least it’s going to somebody with a need and a good cruiser to put it in.
Got pretty far stripping it down today. Not as much hidden body rust as I was thinking I was going to find. It’s probably only about a day or so worth of work to patch the rust. Front of the frame looks really good too. So far C-channels look like they’ll be the most difficult part of the repairs. Oh...and the C-pillars are already threaded for 3-point seatbelts!
Rear body
PS rear window
PS windshield
Worst of the two rain channels
Thanks to those that answed this morning to help me get off to a good start.
While I had the motor on a pallet and was waiting for the buyer to show up, I pulled the dash and decided to start taking out all the crazy wiring that was in there from what looked like multiple sound system setup attempts. While pulling wires, I stuck my hand up into the harness way back where it exits the column clamshell. This is 10 minutes before the buyer shows up.
THERE WAS A MF’ING KILL SWITCH!!!!
It was literally the smallest toggle switch you can buy and it was tucked into the wiring harness. Oh well. The plan was still going to be for a swap and at least it’s going to somebody with a need and a good cruiser to put it in.
Got pretty far stripping it down today. Not as much hidden body rust as I was thinking I was going to find. It’s probably only about a day or so worth of work to patch the rust. Front of the frame looks really good too. So far C-channels look like they’ll be the most difficult part of the repairs. Oh...and the C-pillars are already threaded for 3-point seatbelts!
Rear body
PS rear window
PS windshield
Worst of the two rain channels
Thanks to those that answed this morning to help me get off to a good start.
