I use a screwdriver in the slot that the retainer tab goes in to lever it up gently. Works better than a mallet in my experience.
Dave's Cruiser Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ Noob
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- #22
For the 2Fs with a carb..... has anyone tuned your engine specifically for better performance using the common E10 pump gas?
I remember seeing a chart put up by JimC that listed suggested jet sizes for different fuels, but can't find it again.
I remember seeing a chart put up by JimC that listed suggested jet sizes for different fuels, but can't find it again.
- Thread starter
- #23
Anyone have a recommendation for a machine shop within about an hour of the Fayetteville area? I've got a SBC 350 block I want to drop off for some work, but haven't dealt with anyone in the area before.
jfz80
Cruisin’
@4LowandSlow had one. Not sure if they are import biased or have any specialty focus. Might be worth a visit and chat if he can get you a name/number.
Pretty sure I used Motor Parts & Machine Co in Fayetteville to do the head for my 4BT a number of years ago on @krzyabncanuck 's recommendation. They did a great job.
No, never found a jet chart for the stock carb. Not sure if you can buy the jets from Toyota anyway.
Weber carbs, yes.
Auto Machine Shop in Fayetteville
Motor Parts and Machine in Fayetteville. On Russell street if I remember correctly.
Been using them for 30 years now.
Been using them for 30 years now.
Not sure if you got it off or not, my o-ring and some oil basically turned it to a laquer. Used a slide hammer...gently, but enough to pop it right out.
- Thread starter
- #31
I did get it. Lightly tapped around it with a rubber mallet and pried some on the tab. Ended up giving it a good steady pull while rocking crank pulley back and forth some. Popped out after a minute or two.
- Thread starter
- #32
No questions yet, just a who lotta grease everywhere.... fun day.
ROBsSON
Yeah thats my dad
Looking good man!
- Thread starter
- #34
All done... Besides the disgusting mess, actually not too bad of a job.
I still need to finish the brake lines. I’m replacing with the braided steel hose and got all the way to the last fitting on the rear line. It was already rounded off and I couldn’t get it disconnected. I was going to cut the hardline and put a new fitting on and flare the line, but just couldn’t get a good flare when I was trying on a practice piece. I thought I was going to have to tow it to a shop and have them fix it, but then I had an idea. I just disconnected the other end and removed the entire hardline that runs along the frame and took just that to the shop to have them do it. They were able to get the old fitting unscrewed and screwed into my steel line. They didn’t even charge me anything. Now I just need to put the hardline back in and hook up the ends. Unfortunately during all this, I’ve lost all my brake fluid and will have to go through bleeding the whole system. Hopefully I can get that done first thing tomorrow and drop it off for an alignment.
I still need to finish the brake lines. I’m replacing with the braided steel hose and got all the way to the last fitting on the rear line. It was already rounded off and I couldn’t get it disconnected. I was going to cut the hardline and put a new fitting on and flare the line, but just couldn’t get a good flare when I was trying on a practice piece. I thought I was going to have to tow it to a shop and have them fix it, but then I had an idea. I just disconnected the other end and removed the entire hardline that runs along the frame and took just that to the shop to have them do it. They were able to get the old fitting unscrewed and screwed into my steel line. They didn’t even charge me anything. Now I just need to put the hardline back in and hook up the ends. Unfortunately during all this, I’ve lost all my brake fluid and will have to go through bleeding the whole system. Hopefully I can get that done first thing tomorrow and drop it off for an alignment.
Nice work!
- Thread starter
- #36
Well...diving back in today. I pulled the air cleaner and valve cover then drilled, tapped and installed set screws to replace the oil aluminum galley push plug. Since I’m at 200k miles and “since I’m in there”, I’m going ahead and doing the oil change, valve adjustment, and new plugs, wires, rotor, and dizzy cap.
I just pulled the plugs and took a look. They are all identical across all the cylinders...good sign. HOWEVER; do these look about right or am I maybe running a bit lean?
If you agree that maybe it’s running lean, how do I adjust that? It’s an original Asian 2F carb with the factory sized jets.
I just pulled the plugs and took a look. They are all identical across all the cylinders...good sign. HOWEVER; do these look about right or am I maybe running a bit lean?
If you agree that maybe it’s running lean, how do I adjust that? It’s an original Asian 2F carb with the factory sized jets.
Looks normal to me. If the engine sounds right and is running strong, I don't think I'd worry about it.
- Thread starter
- #39
Minor fabrication question...I want to have the ability to tow a lightweight trailer and mount a receiver bike rack. I picked up a simple 3500lbs step bumper hitch receiver from HF. The two front mounting holes line up with the two existing holes in the stock bumper and the two holes in the tame that have captured nuts on the back side. Now I’m not exactly sure how to mount the two rear holes on the receiver. Other ones I’ve seen just have a piece of rectangular tube that mounts to the frame on either side.
I was thinking of welding up a “clipped A-frame”, welding the receiver to the top and he bolting the legs to the frame.
Not the greatest description, but maybe you get the idea...
Any issues doing it this way?
Second parts....somebody had something welded to the frame at somepoint, but cut it off and left some sharp pieces. I want to grind this off. Any specific instructions (besides common sense) when grinding like thatnear the gas tank?
I was thinking of welding up a “clipped A-frame”, welding the receiver to the top and he bolting the legs to the frame.
Not the greatest description, but maybe you get the idea...
Any issues doing it this way?
Second parts....somebody had something welded to the frame at somepoint, but cut it off and left some sharp pieces. I want to grind this off. Any specific instructions (besides common sense) when grinding like thatnear the gas tank?
The two bolts attached right now are through the bottom of the stock rear crossmember?
No issues I can think of, but you're not going to have much capacity at all.
No issues I can think of, but you're not going to have much capacity at all.
