Damn door won't open after speaker install...

[sonoranfun]

its called a slim jim

Yes, for unlocking doors you're correct that's what it is. I'm however not locked out of my car and have no trouble locking and unlocking it.

To make matters worse I put a screw through the power window wires so now the window is stuck down on top of all my other issues.

you can sacrifice your outer belt moulding to the cause and possibly bend some rod to depress the switch in the door enough to make the release engage but that would be my last resort. There is one screw on the back edge of the door wich you will have to cut or tear off to get the belt moulding to come free but it might be easeir than taking abart the dash.

Here's where I'm lucky, that screw is missing so I can pretty much pull that off without any damage to it. With that off I can clearly see the latch down there but don't really know what I could push on to open the door. I also can't see where getting in there will help other then unbolting the whole latch.

So what do I do if I can see it, I can see all the linkage connected, it just won't open as if something is blocking it. Maybe I can take off the panel in the middle of the two doors and, well I would assume those are welded on bolts so maybe that wouldn't help.

I'm at a loss here for sure and it's starting to kill me! Well, you get the picture..

 

[RavenTai]

Yes, for unlocking doors you're correct that's what it is. I'm however not locked out of my car and have no trouble locking and unlocking it.

You are being short sighted.

The linkages that operate the latch are the same kind as the ones that lock/unlock the latch. You can work on them with a slim jim the same way you do the lock linkages. Considering you have access to both sides it should be possible and is at least worth a try. If you are careful you will not damage the belt molding, also good slim jim kits include wedges for that purpose. Removing it is even better you will be able to see instead of working blind.

Taking apart the other side will allow you to watch how the door operates and a mirror road map as to where you need to be.

You can make your own slim jim from thin flat stock or buy one. I know Mac tools sells a good kit I borrowed one to get into my Caddy at work. And have since made several for coworkers.


All of this is assuming the fault is outside of the latch such as in the linkages, if the latch itself is faulty well………

 

[PHAEDRUS]

Sonoran.
well if the moulding is off it would be a lot easier if you could roll the window all the way up.
go to a parts store and buy a telescoping mirror. angle it in there and see where the linkage is not moving. the lock simply slides a collar out of the contact with the handle assy so if that is the problem you will see the outer handle doing nothing if you engage it. if it is moving the rotating assy on the latch see where it is turning and try to get a peice of 1/8" or so bar stock and force it to engae further. When mine wore out I was able to manually (read with a screw driver) work the linkage down far enough that it would engage.
It is hard to visualize what I am saying but with the belt moulding off you should be able to get in there with a mirror and see what is going on.
Dave

 

[sonoranfun]

Well, I can see in there, when I work the lock back and forth I can see it doing the same thing on the side that will open and on the side that won't open. I can't get the damn window up now so I need to work on that first. Anyway, I can see in there and when I have it in the locked position I see the assy move one way and the handle has full travel. When I have it in the unlocked position I see the assy move to the same spot as it's in on the working side but when I pull the handle up I get the feeling something is blocking the movement in there, same thing with both the inside and outside handle. I would think there was something in the I could just use a rod to push and pop the door open.

 

[Gauge]

I am sure someone thought of this, but how about opening the door from the OUTSIDE.

I have installed radios before, and had problems with door latches and rods coming undone in the process, but I was always able to open the door from the outside.

Not sure I understand how BOTH opening mechanisms could have been affected.

 

[CHibbard]

Door Locked

All,

I just had this same problem, however it was not during a speaker install. It happened after going to the store and closing the DS door. I'll attempt to explain the fix I used. If you get confused, send me a PM and I'll explain over the phone.

1. Remove the seat, real easy 4 bolts
2. Remove the center piller molding. Just pops off easy.
3. Remove all the attached hardward from the inside door panel -- handle, arm rest, control etc...
4. Make sure you have a right-angle blade of some sort to start working the inside door covering loose.
5. Start working the panel loose. You will get about 2/3 of the panel loose, once that happens, give the pannel a good pull. Yes, the panel will slip out, even though it appears to flush with the dash up front. In this process you may break a few of the panel capture studs (not sure of the offical name for these plastic peices)

You should now have the entire door panel off. It can be done.

The problem you are having is not with any of the rods activating the lock system. The problem is isolated to the actual latch unit.

The reason you have full-travel of the outside handle and the inside handle is when the latch is locked, a little metal arm is moved out of the way of the unlocking arm. When the unlocking arm is moved to the "lock position" all the handles will pull up with full travle.

When the latch is in the "un-locked" position, the little metal arm is able to PUSH DOWN on the another metal arm which then presses the "un-locking" arm inside the latch unit and the capture latch is then able to rotate 180 degress and releases the door. (sorry if this is confusing). It takes very little metal arm movement to release the actual latch arm -- 1/8" at max.

The probelm is with the little tiny spring inside the actual latch unit. Over time the spring wears the plastic housing, which in turns allows the spring to travel beyond its range of motion and the end result is that the releasing arm become stuck.

No matter you do -- slim jim etc... you will not get the latch to release. I've tried it all!

The only way to get the latch to release to put a long screw driver or piece of steel bar on to the releasing arm, hit the arm with a good hit. This will "pop" the sping loose with the latch unit and the door will open. In my case the spring actually broke through the plastic housing.

Once you get the door open, you will have to remove the latch unit,(disconnecting all the attached rods) remove the three screws holding the metal cover over the latch unit. When it is open, you see the spring that has gone bad. At this piont you will most likely have to call CDan for a new latch unit (CDan may one in stock). I was able to fix mine by fabricating a metal shim for the spring to sit in. No more spring to plastic chaffing. I also greased all the moving pieces inside the latch unit.

I hope this helps. Like I said earlier, if you more details, drop me a PM and we can talk.

Craig

 

[sonoranfun]

Okay, I'm going to assume the speaker install and door have little to do with the other at this point. Here's what I did today since I had the time.

1) Took off outside trim molding and used a welding (to make it longer) sawzall blade to cut the one screw I couldn't get off from the inside.

2) Took out the seat (Not easy THANKS CHib!!!) and removed the door panel..

3) Removed the linkage for the inside handle and used a screw driver to push assy by hand and open door.

4) With the door open I found the wires for the power window melted together. After about 20 minutes of trouble shooting after fixing the wiring I swapped switches and that solved the issue so I need a new switch. I traded with one from the rear for now.

5) For the door, what I we thinking? Time for a new latch? I'm sure I can just order one as it seems to be acting pretty odd anyway. I tried to use a screw driver with the door open to work that latch and it wasn't easy like the others.

THANKS A LOT for all the help and advice!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Great info on this thread I just hope I never need it. Sounds like a real PIA

 

[Safado]

Just what I was thinking...good luck.

 

[gbell210]

I hope this doesn't start occuring to often or we will have another acronym... PLS
(Pesky Latch Spring)

 

[CHibbard]

Sonorafun,

Glad to hear the door is now open! I checked the passenger (LF) door last week --- sure enough, the spring was starting to eat into its plastic housing! I did the same fix with a piece of alum pounded thin (very thin shim) to keep it from breaking throught the plastic at some point and locking me out the cruizer, and re-grease all the workings of the latch unit. Maybe this should become a future PM list item.

You sure can appreciate when the door opens and closes, doing the Dukes of Hazard - through the window routine sucked! Trying to climb over the center console is a pain as well!

As an FYI, CDan can get the latch units!

Craig

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Is this potential door problem year specific?

 

[CHibbard]

Not sure. My LC is a 95 (Nov 94 build). My father has a 95 Camary, the latch unit looks almost identical. Interesting, he is also starting to have a problem with his driver side door locking out. I suspect the same problem with the spring eating away at the plastic ....

 

[davisdrafting]

hit what

“CHibbard”

could you go into detail on what the “releasing arm” is
what exactly are you hitting on the latch to release it.

anybody have a pic of the latch that could point it out ?

wondering if I could yank on it with a coat hanger


“The only way to get the latch to release to put a long screw driver or piece of steel bar on to the releasing arm, hit the arm with a good hit. This will "pop" the spring loose with the latch unit and the door will open. In my case the spring actually broke through the plastic housing”

 

[CHibbard]

I see that you have posted again your question. Did your door open after looking the detailed thread? Thye design of our LC door lathc system is a problem. I had a note from another LC owner in Australia, same problem, 10 years of opening the DS door and the spring broke through the plastis housing.

Craig

 

[Darwood]

So what part exactly is it that needs to be replaced/fixed. Is it the door handle internal parts or more towards the latch? This is sounding like a nice preventive maintenance item.

 

[davisdrafting]

Nope didn’t help still cant get the door panel off even if I could
I don’t see how it will help anyways. I can see just fine down at
the latch with the window down and the inner window seal removed

and I have looked at the opposite door for an idea of what’s going
on. I cant see any access to the (what I would call) “sear” the piece
that allows the latch to pivot and release the loop

 

[Rich]

Not so long ago somebody had posted pictures of the internals of the latching mechanism including pics of the little spring that wears through the plastic housing.

 

[RavenTai]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=55406&highlight=door+latch+spring+plastic

 

[CHibbard]

Did I miss a thread, which door is lock solid? Regardless of which side, the panel will come off when the door is still locked solid. To give yourself room enough to remove the various panels - kick and A-Pillar panel, you must remove the seat. Once the seat os out and the panels off, slip a "panel tool" under the edge nearest the A-pillar. You will be able to work enough the panel loose, to allow you give it a good solid tug. You will break a few the small plastic pin, but call C-Dan for new ones. You must also remove all the inside door grab handles and trim etc.....