- Thread starter
- #21
Builds Daisy the 80: LSX376 Poverty Pack(ish) build
- Thread starter RivMan
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
More assembly process.
Doors are complete
All wiring is complete
Roof insulation complete
Mocked up the headliner a dozen times, getting ready for installation
Started trimming the new carpet
Received the new double cardan Tom Woods driveshaft
Working on installing the Radius Airbox. I’m going to have to shorten up my intake tube, and re route the radiator hose lower for fitment.
-Rob
Doors are complete
All wiring is complete
Roof insulation complete
Mocked up the headliner a dozen times, getting ready for installation
Started trimming the new carpet
Received the new double cardan Tom Woods driveshaft
Working on installing the Radius Airbox. I’m going to have to shorten up my intake tube, and re route the radiator hose lower for fitment.
-Rob
- Thread starter
- #23
More
-Rob
-Rob
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Very clean...
What radiator is that and is it a double pass?
What radiator is that and is it a double pass?
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks!
It’s the Ron Davis radiator. I believe it’s a double pass setup.
Thanks
-Rob
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I would be curious if it is indeed a double bypass. If not, it might not cool as effectively given the inlet/outlet locations.
If it is indeed a double bypass, it would be a great radiator for LS swap.
I am using a Ron Davis Radiator (1FZ-FE /w auto) on my LS swap, which has the inlet/outlets on opposing corners (looking forward: bottom right, top left).
- Thread starter
- #27
I guess I forgot to mention it earlier, but we're now calling the truck "Daisy". My wife says its too pretty to be the Falcon anymore.
New carpet trimmed last night. I'll be adding a couple layers of sound deadening and thermal insulation before finalizing that install.
I also finished adding some foam to the A/B/C pillars to match the factory setup. I believe I'll be starting to glue in the headliner tonight.
-Rob
New carpet trimmed last night. I'll be adding a couple layers of sound deadening and thermal insulation before finalizing that install.
I also finished adding some foam to the A/B/C pillars to match the factory setup. I believe I'll be starting to glue in the headliner tonight.
-Rob
I dig those door cards- nice alternative to the usual US spec versions. I wish we had a better source for the factory style door pulls/armrests/window switch bezels in the aftermarket. It took me a while to find a decent set to make mine look nice.
I've got those same OneStone armrests modified to work with my factory door panels and love 'em!
The burning question is: If you pull the front shaft, & lock the center diff, will it do a big smoky burnout? ha ha ha
I've got those same OneStone armrests modified to work with my factory door panels and love 'em!
The burning question is: If you pull the front shaft, & lock the center diff, will it do a big smoky burnout? ha ha ha
- Thread starter
- #29
Thanks! I'm a fan of the simplified door cards as well. I have a set of the OneStone armrests, split between my LHD 80 Series and my RHD 62 Series. They work great!
No need to pull any shafts, the truck has been converted to part-time! It will boil the tires if that's your thing, but it really isn't hard to control.
-Rob
- Thread starter
- #30
Progress!
First up was a ton of wiring. I added wires to the upper console for an auto dimming mirror with video feed, compass and temperature displays. I also added a pair of 9-wire cable runs to the upper console area for future updates. I rewired the dome lights to have a front zone, (first 2 domes and the map light) that comes on with the 4 doors. Then I added a rear cargo area dome light, and a second in the hatch, that are triggered by the rear hatch. I also ran a manual trigger wire, so that I could add a switch to each of my gullwing windows.
Next up, headliner installation! What a PITA. I don't want to have to do it again, but it turned out pretty good.
With the headliner in, I was also able to install the gullwings.
Next steps are to install the handles, console and visors.
With the headliner in, I called to schedule the windshield and rear glass install. I had all the OEM seals, as well as the Betaseal U-418 that was recommended as a suitable replacement for the NLA Toyota sealant. I found a shop that does a lot of classic cars, and was willing to follow the service manual, using my parts.
They did a great job!
I think I'm only a couple days away from driving this thing again!
To-Do:
-Rob
First up was a ton of wiring. I added wires to the upper console for an auto dimming mirror with video feed, compass and temperature displays. I also added a pair of 9-wire cable runs to the upper console area for future updates. I rewired the dome lights to have a front zone, (first 2 domes and the map light) that comes on with the 4 doors. Then I added a rear cargo area dome light, and a second in the hatch, that are triggered by the rear hatch. I also ran a manual trigger wire, so that I could add a switch to each of my gullwing windows.
Next up, headliner installation! What a PITA. I don't want to have to do it again, but it turned out pretty good.
With the headliner in, I was also able to install the gullwings.
Next steps are to install the handles, console and visors.
With the headliner in, I called to schedule the windshield and rear glass install. I had all the OEM seals, as well as the Betaseal U-418 that was recommended as a suitable replacement for the NLA Toyota sealant. I found a shop that does a lot of classic cars, and was willing to follow the service manual, using my parts.
They did a great job!
I think I'm only a couple days away from driving this thing again!
To-Do:
- Finish Radius airbox installation
- Finish out interior
- Weld in new crossmember / hitch
- Finalize rear bumper install
- Re-install rear tailgate (removed for crossmember work)
- Finish OEM duel fuel filler installation
- Install wipers
- Drive???
-Rob
Maybe i missed it, but where did you get the new headliner? How long did it take to replace?
- Thread starter
- #32
The headliner came from headlinermart.com. The pattern they used was almost spot on, I'd use them again.
In all, between insulation, prep and installation, I probably have 24 hours of labor in the headliner projects.
-Rob
- Thread starter
- #33
Finalized my Radius airbox installation last night. The airbox exit sits a lot lower than my previous setup, and ran it right through my radiator hose. I decided not to mess with any of that, and spaced the Radius airbox up a couple inches. No more clearance issues, and still plenty low enough for the hood.
Before:
After:
-Rob
Before:
After:
-Rob
- Thread starter
- #34
Next up was to finish up the interior. First was a couple layers of sound deadening. I went with a base of Second Skin Spectrum, followed by Second Skin thermal insulation, finished up with DEI BoomMat. It should be significantly better than the rotted jute that was there before. I installed all of the roof mounted lights, handles and console, and installed most of the side panels. Some seats are still out because I'm working on a custom fridge mount platform in the rear passenger seat area.
- Thread starter
- #35
Also, this happened today! Drove it ~30 miles into the office for the first time since ripping apart!
Drove great! No issues and felt really good to have it on the road again.
-Rob
Drove great! No issues and felt really good to have it on the road again.
-Rob
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Did you cut the fender for the snorkel before or after raising the air box? I do think the Radius box could have the outlet putting more upwards than it does...
My intake is awfully close to an idler pulley and raising the Radius Airbox would help with clearance...
- Thread starter
- #37
The fender was cut before, using Radius's template. The airbox is more tilted than raised, the inlet from the snorkel still fit perfectly after relocating it. I ended up using the normal rear Radius mounting tabs, but moved them back to different existing holes in the fender (it lined up pretty well). The front mount is floating for now, but I'll make a small bracket to attach it to the fender.
-Rob
holy smokes, dream build into dream spec. Great job, very tasteful direction and mods.
Where did you source the doors?
Where did you source the doors?
- Thread starter
- #39
Thank you! It's coming out exactly how I wanted to build my dream 80!
Are you talking about the replacement doors, or the door panels?
The doors came from a couple places.
The front passenger door came from Mud member MrMacdugal. He had a clean one available and ships parts professionally. It arrived without a problem.
The two rear doors came from J & J Auto Wrecking in Ohio. They had a set of EXTREMELY clean rear doors that I found on their eBay page. I drove down and picked those up in person. Security Measure - https://www.ebay.com/str/jandjautowrecking
The door panels came from Australian Door Cards. Australian Door Cards - https://australiandoorcards.com.au/
Thanks
-Rob
- Thread starter
- #40
Playing a little catch up here.
Rebuilt and the Trail Tailor bumper with all new hardware, and welded the modified crossmember / hitch to the frame. Not shown, but I also reinstalled my aux tank system, with an OEM dual filler neck.
Finished out the interior, installing a fridge platform in place of the passenger rear seat. Two dome lights, linked to the rear hatch, were installed. One on the hatch, and a second inside, on the rear door frame. I also installed my dual battery system, and began installing the drawers.
-Rob
Rebuilt and the Trail Tailor bumper with all new hardware, and welded the modified crossmember / hitch to the frame. Not shown, but I also reinstalled my aux tank system, with an OEM dual filler neck.
Finished out the interior, installing a fridge platform in place of the passenger rear seat. Two dome lights, linked to the rear hatch, were installed. One on the hatch, and a second inside, on the rear door frame. I also installed my dual battery system, and began installing the drawers.
-Rob
