CV's. What needs to be replaced? (1 Viewer)

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LSUfj

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I have a clicking sound that I havent narrowed down yet. It sounds very much like a rock in the tire, but its been there for a few months now. I recently did the front brakes, bearing repack, and installed an OME lift and diff drop. Boots looked fine at that point. On to my question...

If my noise turned out to be a "bad" CV, what does this mean? What parts actually go bad? Ive read about a CV kit, is this just new boots, clamps, grease? Doesnt seem like much could go wrong with the joints....

School me.

Thanks!
 
The joints are just like the birfs in your 40, just sealed. Most of the time if there's an issue with a CV it's that the boot has torn, it's lost most of the grease, and the heat causes damage.
 
I have a clicking sound that I havent narrowed down yet. It sounds very much like a rock in the tire, but its been there for a few months now. I recently did the front brakes, bearing repack, and installed an OME lift and diff drop. Boots looked fine at that point. On to my question...

If my noise turned out to be a "bad" CV, what does this mean? What parts actually go bad? Ive read about a CV kit, is this just new boots, clamps, grease? Doesnt seem like much could go wrong with the joints....

School me.

Thanks!
You have ball bearings inside a cage rotating every time the rig moves, plenty can go wrong there if they run dry or dirt gets inside.

The CV kit is a PM only, as you state it includes the boots clamps and grease.
 
The joints are just like the birfs in your 40, just sealed. Most of the time if there's an issue with a CV it's that the boot has torn, it's lost most of the grease, and the heat causes damage.

So, do you replace the joints only? I searched and found an "axle" replacement, but was unclear as to what was included with the "axle". The shaft clearly was not broken. Sorry for my lack knowledge. Do most people get by with new boots, grease and clamps?
 
So, do you replace the joints only? I searched and found an "axle" replacement, but was unclear as to what was included with the "axle". The shaft clearly was not broken. Sorry for my lack knowledge. Do most people get by with new boots, grease and clamps?
AFAIK the axels are sold as assemblies, everything between the diff and the drive hub.
The CV axel is like two birfields with a center section. The birfield sections are covered with a rubber boot to keep the grease in and dirt out. If your CV joints are worn to the point that they are making noise replacing the boots probably won't be a long term fix. As I posted above the boot kit is a PM you do before the joints run dry.
 
AFAIK the axels are sold as assemblies, everything between the diff and the drive hub.

Yep. If the joint is indeed bad, you just replace the whole thing. Someone mentioned the NAPA joint, like $150 and lifetime warranty. If the boots are torn or leaking and youv'e caught it early, then you can just reseal/reboot them.
 
AFAIK the axels are sold as assemblies, everything between the diff and the drive hub.


Correct. You can, naturally, get them from Toyota but NAPA also sells a complete CV axle assembly for $100-$110 per side (brand new, lifetime guarantee, better CV boot clamps than OEM) but I do not have direct experience with the NAPA unit (yet).

For a lifted rig and one that sees off-road use I would recommend changing the OEM Toyota boot clamps/bands to the style you are in control of the pretension (available at NAPA). I had to do this on my new OEM replacements within 20K...which kinda pissed me off really given how much the OEM CV axle assemblies cost (>$300 per)!
 
Correct. You can, naturally, get them from Toyota but NAPA also sells a complete CV axle assembly for $100-$110 per side (brand new, lifetime guarantee, better CV boot clamps than OEM) but I do not have direct experience with the NAPA unit (yet).

For a lifted rig and one that sees off-road use I would recommend changing the OEM Toyota boot clamps/bands to the style you are in control of the pretension (available at NAPA). I had to do this on my new OEM replacements within 20K...which kinda pissed me off really given how much the OEM CV axle assemblies cost (>$300 per)!
Is there a gender to the axels? (ie DS - PS)
 
anyone have the part numbers of the NAPA clamps and tool for that clamps?? Mine are now leaking, but the boots aren't ripped and it's clear they are leaking from the small end - time to reclamp.
 
Yep, they're right and left. Not sure on what the difference is since there's no long side/short side on the 100.


I wasn't aware they are dedicated left/right; I certainly can't tell them apart. Hundy guys typically carry one spare CV that will work on either side for trail side repair if necessary.
 
I wasn't aware they are dedicated left/right; I certainly can't tell them apart. Hundy guys typically carry one spare CV that will work on either side for trail side repair if necessary.

Strike that, same part no.

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - Remfd


NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00


Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New


NMD
944038
$110.00


Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd


NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00


Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New


NMD
944038
$110.00
 
Strike that, same part no.

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - Remfd


NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New
NMD
944038
$110.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New
NMD
944038
$110.00
That makes more sense.
 
Has anyone seen the NAPA units versus OEM? Has anyone used them?

For a third of the price, I was wondering about the quality...
 
anyone have the part numbers of the NAPA clamps and tool for that clamps?? Mine are now leaking, but the boots aren't ripped and it's clear they are leaking from the small end - time to reclamp.

Just go into the store and ask for CV clamps. They will have a case of them in the back and sell them by the piece. Measure before you go in so you can get the correct size. I brought home the wrong size the first time. I don't recall what the right size was now. One bad thing, these clamps are made in China. But as I found out all of the after market clamps are made in China. I have a Toyota OEM reboot kit for both boots for both axles brand new I'd sell if someone wants it. I decided to just replace the small clamps and so far I've been OK.
 
Has anyone used the NAPA cv axle? I need to replace mine on the driver side and was going to try it. Also, how many bananas is a cv axle replacement and what special tools are needed?

This was not caused by the lift, it just started leaking some time ago and I did not take care of it so now I get a whole new cv axle.

Thanks,

uzj100
 
spresso has used the NAPA CV's, I don't recall him being impressed with them. If you're only replacing the CV and not going in to the hub the easiest way is to disconnect the whole knuckle off the lower arm and swing it out of the way to remove the CV. Difficulty depends on your skill and what you're comfortable with. I'd put it about 3 bananas.
 
don't use the NAPA's I broke one last weekend
 

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