Cv spline wear?

[TexLexican]

Hoping to only re boot the axles and not replace. There is very slight play between the flange and axle when moving by hand. What do y’all say?

 

[TexLexican]

Hoping to only re boot the axles and not replace. There is very slight play between the flange and axle when moving by hand. What do y’all say?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Miles on truck/CV's/flanges?

 

[TexLexican]

Miles on truck/CV's/flanges?

300k

 

[Eyedaho]

View attachment 3024921
View attachment 3024922

If there is perceptible rotational play then you can replace the outer end of the CV axle and the drive flanges for a reasonable amount of money. Especially if they're original to the vehicle.

Looks like 43460-69145 for the outboard joint kit, which also includes the inboard boot, grease, and clamps, is about $200 online at some of the Toyota dealerships. 43421-60060 for the drive flanges. Plus you'll probably want the flange gasket, differential seals, cone washers, etc.

 

[TexLexican]

If there is perceptible rotational play then you can replace the outer end of the CV axle and the drive flanges for a reasonable amount of money. Especially if they're original to the vehicle.

Thanks. Trying to avoid Autozone CVs.

If there is perceptible rotational play then you can replace the outer end of the CV axle and the drive flanges for a reasonable amount of money. Especially if they're original to the vehicle.

Looks like 43460-69145 for the outboard joint kit, which also includes the inboard boot, grease, and clamps, is about $200 online at some of the Toyota dealerships. 43421-60060 for the drive flanges. Plus you'll probably want the flange gasket, differential seals, cone washers, etc.

The inboard joint splines are worn similarly to the outboard. If only the outboard joint is replaced, will that save the inboard splines from further wear?

 

[TexLexican]

Are the male splines on the flange supposed to be triangularly shaped? Not sure if that’s described correctly.

 

[2001LC]

Hard to see in picture (blur). But I'd say; You've some minor wear of flange splines (teeth). As it looks like angle differs on other either side of a tooth. I'd say it the second or third hub flange.

Axle clearly has more wear. Note the difference on either side of a tooth and compared to outer splines (outside of snap ring groove)

It does not look so bad you'll strip out teeth anytime soon. Provide you keep wheel bearing tight (proper preload) and new snap gaped properly (less than 0.20MM gap).

But you'll not get the D-N-R to R-N-D clunk out. Unless you replace FDS (CV) & hub flange.

NEW FDS axle

Badly worn teeth of front wheel hub flange.

New hub flange

Both new

Clunk of worn FDS (CV) axle & wheel hub flange


No Clunk, both FDS & wheel hub flange new OEM.

 

[TexLexican]

Great info! Not as concerned now. Luckily greasing up the drive shaft resolved the clunk. I’m sure both lock nuts only being hand tight didn’t help either.

Why is the inboard shaft not as much of a concern? I would think that it would take more of a load.

 

[2001LC]

Great info! Not as concerned now. Luckily greasing up the drive shaft resolved the clunk. I’m sure both lock nuts only being hand tight didn’t help either.

Why is the inboard shaft not as much of a concern? I would think that it would take more of a load.

I've never seen and measurable wear on inboard axle splines.

Outboard axle wear for a few reason.
Number one is, loose wheel bearing chatter (vibration). Add the chatter with wide snap ring gap, and axle moves in and out past design limitation. Creating a power saw.

 

[TexLexican]

The Evercraft brand boot pliers aren’t that great. I need cheaters to apply enough pressure and now they are bent.

I can still move the inboard boot just a little where the smaller clamp is too. Anyone have better luck with clamps?

 

[2001LC]

The small end of inboard boot, fits in a pocket. If you can push boot inward or push outward with clamp on, it is not in the pocket.

If not using OEM clamp(s). I get clamps from NAPA. They have both small and large. Easy to use, cheap and work well.

 

[abuck99]

The Evercraft brand boot pliers aren’t that great. I need cheaters to apply enough pressure and now they are bent.

I can still move the inboard boot just a little where the smaller clamp is too. Anyone have better luck with clamps?

IDK what “evercraft”clamps are but if you’re using crimp type clamp, you need a quality crimp tool that can get you precise tension- enough to keep grease from seeping but not so tight that the boot eventually tears. There is a specification in the FSM indicating the correct crimp gap- that’s your benchmark.

Cleaning the sealing surface under the boot before the clamp is applied- its important for a good seal- otherwise you may experience some boot movement, seepage, even when proper torque (gap) is applied to the band clamp.

 

[TexLexican]

Was fixing to put the DS cv axle in when I noticed I ordered the wrong diff seal. Toyota lists what I thought was correct as:
OIL SEAL; SEAL
FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, LEFT; OIL (FOR DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR SHAFT).

I guess what I need is-

9031170011​

Wheel Seal (Left, Right, Front)
OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB LEFT); OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB RIGHT).

Would a ‘99 LX differ from an LC in this regard?