CV boot replacment?

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Dec 19, 2007
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Harrisonburg, VA
I can't find any write ups on it. I have an 89 mini. I don't have a FSM but i have a haynes. In the past i have have found the Haynes is better for proping up 1 leg of my bench then for repairing my truck. I was wondering if the haynes is ok for this repair.
 
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shouldnt be to difficult if it were me Id so the whole axle as they arent that much...
 
It's a messy time-consuming job, and you'll probably need to get a pair of special pliers for squeezing the new clamps. And when you're done you'll still be re-installing a worn CV back into your truck. I would check around to see how much a new one would cost.

Or, check around locally, see if you can find someone that's doing a SAS, a lot of times they'll just give away the CV shafts.
 
I believe the reman is about $190 from Toyota after you get your core charge back.

I wouldn't just replace the boots either, unless the previous boot had not yet failed. Once you get dirt and water in there, it compromised and would be better to just put in a new one IMHO.

Dan
 
Got reman axles for $69 or so at Checker. Lifetime warranty too....don't have to worry bout breaking them that way. Yea there not Factory, but works for me. The job can be done in 3/4 a day and i would recommend taking out the lower control arm bolts at the frame. Then u can slide axle halves out with no struggling......make sure to mark cam bolt to resume alignment. Good luck.
 
Got reman axles for $69 or so at Checker. Lifetime warranty too....don't have to worry bout breaking them that way.


Ouch. 1st off, I hope you never break one.

And 2nd, if you do, I hope you can make it home and to the store to get it replaced.

I know Japanese steel is some HIGH quality stuff.

What I don't know is just how high quality a $70 joint can be...

All in all. I'd rather repack my junk any day than buy something as far as I know is made from pot metal.

After all, just how much time are the front joints under a load? Because as far as I know, in 2WD or spinning free with no load (ADD) doesn't hurt them.


That, or just go find some from a good or low mileage truck, re-boot them and have 2 sets. Then you can change them in your own sweet time, and go wheeling with extras.


:meh:
 
Replacing the joint is easy. Like others have mentioned, if the boot has been torn long enough that the grease has been exposed to water/ dirt, you are better off replacing the entire axle. On top of that, when replacing the outer boot, the most efficient way to do so is by removing the inner joint. This will require purchasing another boot kit. So, you have to ask yourself if it is worth the few $ in savings to buy two kits and spend a few hours playing in a greasy mess, or just swap out the axle and be on your way.
 
i did not have any problems when i did mine, with out removing the control arm. i can see where it would help out but they go right in with out doing that.


and the ones from carquest were about the same price per axle.
 
If you drop the diff its easy to pull the cv joint /axle. Replace the studs (on the flange at the diff/axle tube) with nuts and bolts to facilitate easy replacement in the future. Now you can easily replace the blown out cv with a quality factory one and reboot the used one to keep as a trail spare (which should be much easier to swap because there are no stinking studs to get caught up on which is the problem when swapping c.v.'s and the reason why the diff would otherwise need to be dropped).
 
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