CV Axle replacement (1 Viewer)

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steffan

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'92 pickup's cv boots finally gave up the ghost and started puking grease. it's not a serious off road vehicle so i didn't look for any high end/ hard core replacements. pretty easy job overall but it definately helps to have two people: makes it easier to manipulate the jack under the a-arm when positioning the new axle and also, when tightening the nuts down to the stub axle (had someone hold the brakes while i loosened/ tightened). overall the hardest part of the job was seating the bolts on the upper ball joint.
for the uninitiated here's the steps:
remove the wheel. remove the upper shock bolt and sway bar link (allows the lower a-arm to drop out of the way - I tried to do it with them in place - close but no dice). remove the upper ball joint nuts. some people say they removed the brake line for more extension but i didn't find it necessary. i then loosened all the nuts holding the cv axle to the stub axle on the differential - using a long 1/2" extension and breaker bar i was able to take them off without too much difficulty (the extension put the breaker bar on the outside of the brake caliper. this way i could rest/ torq off the caliper - made a huge difference). once all the nuts were removed, i took the hub selector off and the bolt/ washer on the end of the shaft. then removed the hub body so the snap ring could be removed. the cv axle could then be pulled out through the bottom of the a-arm (the stub axle has 2 divots that facilitate the pass through). here's what the scene looks like - some good videos on youtube if you really more details.

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i ended up going to auto zone for the replacements. mostly because they were brand new and pretty reasonably priced. quality seemed really nice

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Great write up - Just finished this project a few weeks ago but once I was in there i went all weekend

Ball joints
Hub rebuild and new brakes (rotor & pads)

Costly but I figured it was a good opportunity to knock everything out once my drivers side bolt ripped apart. I was amazed that the many of the parts were factory originally

Good work!!
 
Good write up. I know a way to shorten whole process. When I was IFS I press studs out of dif axle flange and used grade 10.9 bolts to hold CV to dif/axle flange. Setup allowed me to swap CV axles in 20-30 min without removing shock or ball joint. I offroaded rig and was concerned about trail repair; never needed it as CVs held up to a full locker front. With torsion bar lift I did go through boots a little quicker. If you seldomly need to replace axle may not be worth effort.
 

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