First I want to say that I have been building custom headlights for customers across the US and a few other countries for over 6 years so this isn't my first rodeo, though it was my first set of lx570s since acquiring my 08 starfire pearl a month ago. My own builds are geared more towards output and simplicity but there are plenty of options this doesn't go over like halos, demon eyes, etched projector lenses, HID setups, etc. I know I am not the best at photographing every step, I get into the zone, but there is almost no threads or extra info on LX570 builds so it's better than nothing.
I didn't document every step but this gives you a pretty good idea what to expect and what the internals look like before you crack them open. My factory lenses had tons of stress cracks or crazing in the lenses that could not be fixed so new lenses were used for the build.
Parts used:
-NHK M5 Bi-LED 3" projectors
-Adapter brackets to retain AFS functionality
-Sanvi S8 Bi-LED 2.5" projectors
-Shroud centric rings
-Iris projector shrouds
-Diode dynamics Butyl Rubber
-New outer lenses
-Xenon Depot Xtreme VF signal bulbs
-Diode dynamics Smart tap flasher relay
-Ford Tuxedo black paint
-Spraymax 2k clearcoat
-Misc wiring connectors and heat shrink
-jb kwik
Tools used:
-Panel popping pliers
-Heat gun (due to size they won't fit in most residential ovens)
-Flathead screwdriver
-Wiring/crimping tools (I used IWISS crimp pliers)
-Belt sander
-Drill
-Dremel w/ cutoff wheel and sanding disks
-Compression/spring clamps
Step 1: remove headlights from vehicle
-this is covered on other threads and YouTube videos so I'm not going into it.
Step 2: opening headlights
- remove the 6-7 phillips screws around the perimeter of the lens holding it to the housing. This is the part that can get people in trouble if you aren't somewhat careful with the heat gun. Move at a steady pace, don't sit on any areas around the outside edge of the lens. Once sealant is hot, it will become pliable. When pliable, start using the panel poppers around the edge to pull the lens off the housing. With a heat gun this can be a slow process, don't force the lens off or it may very well crack or deform the back housing.
Step 3: disassembly
-once lenses have been removed you have full access to all the inner workings of the headlights. If you are doing any paint work on the housing, remove the chrome housing/shroud via the 4 screws into the lens from the backside.
-projectors are removed, after the turn signal reflector, with the whole bracket assembly by pinching the tabs and pulling them off the adjuster clips.
Step 4: projector/optics swap
-the factory projectors come off the brackets by removing/dropping the AFS motor from the bottom and removing two screws and the retention clip off the top pivot point.
-Once the projector is removed, the new unit can be put back in reverse order. Depending on the projector you use, the spacing from bracket to lens may be off which results in the projector being a bit further forward. If that is the case, you'll need to open up the outer chrome housing projector hole so you still have full range of motion for the AFS.
Step 5: high beam location projector
- this is not super easy for a beginner since it needs to be aligned with the "zero" for the main location projectors. Rotational and alignment is set via the "nut and bolt method" which revolves around drilling 4 precise holes that line up with the 4 mounting holes of the projector. The uneven steps of the projector beams should line up so it essentially makes a single step with about a 4" difference in horizontal alignment since that's the rough spacing difference between where they sit in the housing.
-once everything sits where it should, cut the legs of the screws and apply a little jb kwik or loctite on the nuts so they never back off.
Step 6: shroud fitment
-there are plenty of shroud choices to cover up the high beam location projector. The shroud centric rings are used to fit a full size 3" projectors shroud onto a 2.5" projectors lens. You may need to trim more or less depending on your choice, the Iris shroud requires very very minimal trimming/sanding.
Step 7: paint work
-for any parts you plan to paint, strip the chrome or sand it off to get the best adhesion. Make sure that you do all your trimming ahead of time so the final finished paint surfaces end up perfect.
Step 8: assembly
-all parts of the housing go in just the way they came out. Make sure to plug back in the two plugs for the AFS, a two pin and a one pin.
Step 9: reseal
-heat up the factory sealant using the heat gun and smooth it out with the screwdriver so it is nicely laid flat. Put a new full bead of sealant all the way around the lens channel. Heat it up and it will become shiny once it is hot enough. Press lens back down, use compression or spring clamps around the edge of the lens to pull it down into the channel and then insert the screws to secure the lens back down.
Step 10: wiring
-if doing quad projectors, you can wire them up one of two ways, constant quad low beams or have the high beam location projectors be wired up on a separate switch. I always wire them up as constant quads which means all the wiring can be done within the headlights and behind the dust caps. Both projecgor low beams need to he crimped to a h11 connector to make it plug and play. Both the high beams should be tied into the factory 9006 connector, simple as that.
Step 11: final aiming
-once headlights are mounted back up and connections made, you will want to do a final height adjustment to get the beams to have a 2-3" drop at 25 feet away from a wall (while on flat ground). This can be measured using the height of projectors off the ground, when on the vehicle, and then measuring the height of beams on the wall.
I will be posting more completed pics for output and a few extras along the way since I am limited to 5 for this initial post.
I didn't document every step but this gives you a pretty good idea what to expect and what the internals look like before you crack them open. My factory lenses had tons of stress cracks or crazing in the lenses that could not be fixed so new lenses were used for the build.
Parts used:
-NHK M5 Bi-LED 3" projectors
-Adapter brackets to retain AFS functionality
-Sanvi S8 Bi-LED 2.5" projectors
-Shroud centric rings
-Iris projector shrouds
-Diode dynamics Butyl Rubber
-New outer lenses
-Xenon Depot Xtreme VF signal bulbs
-Diode dynamics Smart tap flasher relay
-Ford Tuxedo black paint
-Spraymax 2k clearcoat
-Misc wiring connectors and heat shrink
-jb kwik
Tools used:
-Panel popping pliers
-Heat gun (due to size they won't fit in most residential ovens)
-Flathead screwdriver
-Wiring/crimping tools (I used IWISS crimp pliers)
-Belt sander
-Drill
-Dremel w/ cutoff wheel and sanding disks
-Compression/spring clamps
Step 1: remove headlights from vehicle
-this is covered on other threads and YouTube videos so I'm not going into it.
Step 2: opening headlights
- remove the 6-7 phillips screws around the perimeter of the lens holding it to the housing. This is the part that can get people in trouble if you aren't somewhat careful with the heat gun. Move at a steady pace, don't sit on any areas around the outside edge of the lens. Once sealant is hot, it will become pliable. When pliable, start using the panel poppers around the edge to pull the lens off the housing. With a heat gun this can be a slow process, don't force the lens off or it may very well crack or deform the back housing.
Step 3: disassembly
-once lenses have been removed you have full access to all the inner workings of the headlights. If you are doing any paint work on the housing, remove the chrome housing/shroud via the 4 screws into the lens from the backside.
-projectors are removed, after the turn signal reflector, with the whole bracket assembly by pinching the tabs and pulling them off the adjuster clips.
Step 4: projector/optics swap
-the factory projectors come off the brackets by removing/dropping the AFS motor from the bottom and removing two screws and the retention clip off the top pivot point.
-Once the projector is removed, the new unit can be put back in reverse order. Depending on the projector you use, the spacing from bracket to lens may be off which results in the projector being a bit further forward. If that is the case, you'll need to open up the outer chrome housing projector hole so you still have full range of motion for the AFS.
Step 5: high beam location projector
- this is not super easy for a beginner since it needs to be aligned with the "zero" for the main location projectors. Rotational and alignment is set via the "nut and bolt method" which revolves around drilling 4 precise holes that line up with the 4 mounting holes of the projector. The uneven steps of the projector beams should line up so it essentially makes a single step with about a 4" difference in horizontal alignment since that's the rough spacing difference between where they sit in the housing.
-once everything sits where it should, cut the legs of the screws and apply a little jb kwik or loctite on the nuts so they never back off.
Step 6: shroud fitment
-there are plenty of shroud choices to cover up the high beam location projector. The shroud centric rings are used to fit a full size 3" projectors shroud onto a 2.5" projectors lens. You may need to trim more or less depending on your choice, the Iris shroud requires very very minimal trimming/sanding.
Step 7: paint work
-for any parts you plan to paint, strip the chrome or sand it off to get the best adhesion. Make sure that you do all your trimming ahead of time so the final finished paint surfaces end up perfect.
Step 8: assembly
-all parts of the housing go in just the way they came out. Make sure to plug back in the two plugs for the AFS, a two pin and a one pin.
Step 9: reseal
-heat up the factory sealant using the heat gun and smooth it out with the screwdriver so it is nicely laid flat. Put a new full bead of sealant all the way around the lens channel. Heat it up and it will become shiny once it is hot enough. Press lens back down, use compression or spring clamps around the edge of the lens to pull it down into the channel and then insert the screws to secure the lens back down.
Step 10: wiring
-if doing quad projectors, you can wire them up one of two ways, constant quad low beams or have the high beam location projectors be wired up on a separate switch. I always wire them up as constant quads which means all the wiring can be done within the headlights and behind the dust caps. Both projecgor low beams need to he crimped to a h11 connector to make it plug and play. Both the high beams should be tied into the factory 9006 connector, simple as that.
Step 11: final aiming
-once headlights are mounted back up and connections made, you will want to do a final height adjustment to get the beams to have a 2-3" drop at 25 feet away from a wall (while on flat ground). This can be measured using the height of projectors off the ground, when on the vehicle, and then measuring the height of beams on the wall.
I will be posting more completed pics for output and a few extras along the way since I am limited to 5 for this initial post.
