Current mileage 200 series 5.7L

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Interesting. I recognize that most of this is what Toyota recommends for 'severe operating conditions', but I don't think I qualify as that even under the very broad definitions I've seen on this board. I mostly take transit within the city, so most of my miles are from long interstate trips on the highway without towing or heavy loading, and when I do drive locally it's usually >5 miles each way on the highway as well, never stop-and-go. I'm open to being convinced otherwise, though.

What's the logic behind the heavier oil? I've heard it's good for older trucks to increase the oil weight once the motor gets up there in the 100ks, but never for (essentially) new vehicles.
Do a search, LOTS of threads here on oil weights. But the bottom line: LC200’s came with 5w30, or heavier ,from the factory in every location in the world EXCEPT the USA, where 0w20 was spec’s to improve fleet mileage standards, not to improve performance or vehicle life. Australia, the Mideast, Japan, Russia, Eastern Europe, annd Africa all got 5w30, 10w40 etc…which represents the vast majority of LC 200’s sold. Only the USA specs thin 0w20 oils, based on 2009 fuel mileage standards. There is no disadvantage to 5w30…which makes a quieter engine, and likely longer engine life.
 
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I run 0w40. Many 0w30 oils shear too easily.
 
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I run 0w40. Many 0w30 oils shear to easily.
I don't think this is correct. Typically, the more friction modifiers (think of a greater spread of the Winter vs operating wt) causes higher likelihood of shearing out of grade over time given everything oils are exposed to (condensation, fuel dilution, etc). I could be wrong however. There's another forum that does a deep dive into motor oils and can give you all sorts of good and bad info to draw from.

@Jestocost run whatever weight oil you want as these engines are quite robust and "easy" on oil. Just keep your oil change interval at 5k. A lot of people here run 5w30. There's a ton of good oils out there in 5W30 that would serve your engine well. If you're wanting an initial intro to motor oils, check out motor oil geek on YT. His explanations are solid 98% (made up statistic) of the time for oils and he usually takes some liberties to help with explanations the other 2% of the time - totally forgivable IMO. I used to be an extended oil change interval guy. No more. 5k oil change interval for me.
 
I don't think this is correct. Typically, the more friction modifiers (think of a greater spread of the Winter vs operating wt) causes higher likelihood of shearing out of grade over time given everything oils are exposed to (condensation, fuel dilution, etc). I could be wrong however. There's another forum that does a deep dive into motor oils and can give you all sorts of good and bad info to draw from.

@Jestocost run whatever weight oil you want as these engines are quite robust and "easy" on oil. Just keep your oil change interval at 5k. A lot of people here run 5w30. There's a ton of good oils out there in 5W30 that would serve your engine well. If you're wanting an initial intro to motor oils, check out motor oil geek on YT. His explanations are solid 98% (made up statistic) of the time for oils and he usually takes some liberties to help with explanations the other 2% of the time - totally forgivable IMO. I used to be an extended oil change interval guy. No more. 5k oil change interval for me.

Definitely correct for these particular oils at least. Specifically, AFE M1 0w30 oil is barely SAE 30. I saw the shear to 20 SAE in UOA I did on it by the 5k mile mark. I was running it between 50k and ~115k on my 2015. It was ok, but I switched to M1 0w40. This is much more stout oil, and while itself not whole lot above SAE 30 it shears less. I had a minor oil loss on the 0w30, maybe from tiny leak on the timing cover, maybe from burning - now I see zero loss on the 0w40.

0w40 is recommended oil for the V8 elsewhere in the world in the high temp/severe use scenarios. Now I would run nothing else, the best way to increase chances these engines run forever (along with frequent coolant changes). I am going to switch my 2021 garage queen as well soon (still below 5k miles).

I have similar experience in my 2012 Tacoma. 0w30 was disappearing some. 0w40 is rock stable. It is possible there are better 30 SAE oils than M1 0w30.

Honestly, M1 0w40 is a goldilocks oil, I run in like everything that uses oil...
 
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Creeping up on 211k.

I preventatively replaced the radiator (as it had the stress crack but was not leaking), and along with it the thermostat, water pump, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, fan pulley bracket, and serpentine belt. That was around 176k I believe.

Replaced the alternator at 192k.
Coolant valley leak repair at around 200k.
 
2015 LX570

211,000 miles
zero leak of any fluid, not even a seepage or dampness. Carfax lists rear main seal done at 178K miles, doesn't list any cam tower repair or valve cover gasket but they are bone dry.
 
2018 with 64,000 miles.
Replaced front AC blower, harness & servos. Replace rear AC servos. Replaced at different times.
Only the one issue, but it was a big one.
 
1/19 URJ200. About to turn 100k. Only things I’ve had to replace outside of maintenance/wear is both headlight washer check valves.
 
2016 LC200 bought used in 2018 with 14,400. Currently has 114,200.
 
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I hit this fun milage the other day.

2015 LC200
Austin to Atlanta roundtrip in a little over a week will take me over the quarter million mile maker. I have been doing a lot of preventative maintenance since I got it two years ago but the biggest in the 40,000 miles was the switch to the new radiator. I did switch to 5W-30 like many others.

Other than that, mostly smooth sailing.
 
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