Current FJ60 Tow Hitch Options (1 Viewer)

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Hey all- Looking for hitch for my '84 FJ60. Can you please tell me what make this install was? Did you need to do any drilling? Thanks

Ned
 
@nedmonty here you go:

 
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Since posting this I have since replaced the original hitch with a 2-inch one found here:

Amazon product ASIN B000765DW2
The fit was not perfect. I had to do some grinding on the hitch to get the holes to line up with the front factory holes in the frame. I also had to drill holes in the rear of the frame to accommodate the hitch. Had to use spacers to rear the rear frame rivets like most do as well as a spacer where the hitch attaches to the bumper. It was more work than needed and I wouldn't underestimate the effort it takes to cut holes in that Japanese steel. It sucks.

If I did this again I would absolutely use the wiring kit @Seth S has in his included post. I spliced my stuff in but would have loved to had just a plug and play kit. Much cleaner and more reliable. That's trick.

Someone posted a recent install the other day. Think its here for a different hitch option. May not need the hitch/bumper spacer if using this hitch:


Some shots of my install:

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Thank you. Looks very clean. Did you by chance research the Draw-tite 75725 for a fit and if so why did you choose to go with the Curt? I am getting recommendations on the Draw-tite too. Best, ned
 
Thank you. Looks very clean. Did you by chance research the Draw-tite 75725 for a fit and if so why did you choose to go with the Curt? I am getting recommendations on the Draw-tite too. Best, ned

I looked at the Draw-tite but I like the look of the square hitch instead of the round ones. The 75725 might fit better, but really liked the square tube the Curt had. Thats really all there was to it.

Incidentally, the original hitch I had on here I have for sale if interested. It made specifically for the 60 series so no drilling required but its a class I and not real sturdy. Has a 1 inch receiver on it. But again, its for sale if interested. PM me if you want.
 
That is great. Thank you. Will only be using for a bike rack so pretty sure that is all I would need it for. Could you send pics if possible? Thanks
 
Heres the ad I have in Classifieds for it:


I purchased this brand new from Curt and it was on my truck for roughly 9 months. Needless to say its in good shape. Let me know if interested. Thanks.
 
Thank you. What are you looking to get for it? Will it hold a bike rack? Why did you wind up upgrading? Thanks again
 
Thank you. What are you looking to get for it? Will it hold a bike rack? Why did you wind up upgrading? Thanks again

he posted the link to the ad. All your answers are there and yes it should easily hold a bike rack unless your bike and rack exceed 200 pounds 😉
 
he posted the link to the ad. All your answers are there and yes it should easily hold a bike rack unless your bike and rack exceed 200 pounds 😉
I looked at the Draw-tite but I like the look of the square hitch instead of the round ones. The 75725 might fit better, but really liked the square tube the Curt had. Thats really all there was to it.

Incidentally, the original hitch I had on here I have for sale if interested. It made specifically for the 60 series so no drilling required but its a class I and not real sturdy. Has a 1 inch receiver on it. But again, its for sale if interested. PM me if you want.
Hi Robert. I’m looking for a hitch for my ‘86 60 to tow a double trailer with wave runners. I’ve read about your experience with the Curt 13402 and also @Seth S experience with the Draw Tite 75725. I’ve also found the 2” hitch receiver made by BTB, but not sure which class it is. Other than the round tube on the draw Tite vs the square tube on the Curt, is there any other reason you went with the Curt? You mentioned the hours of drilling into steel and I’m wondering if the draw Tite would have been any different? I’ll link my post with pics and also the 2” receiver by BTB. Please let me know which one would be the least difficult for a mechanic to install. Thank you.

 
I haven't looked on their website, but Hopkins had a plug-n-play trailer wiring kit for my 88 4Runner. I'd check out Hopkins towing solutions
 
Hi Robert. I’m looking for a hitch for my ‘86 60 to tow a double trailer with wave runners. I’ve read about your experience with the Curt 13402 and also @Seth S experience with the Draw Tite 75725. I’ve also found the 2” hitch receiver made by BTB, but not sure which class it is. Other than the round tube on the draw Tite vs the square tube on the Curt, is there any other reason you went with the Curt? You mentioned the hours of drilling into steel and I’m wondering if the draw Tite would have been any different? I’ll link my post with pics and also the 2” receiver by BTB. Please let me know which one would be the least difficult for a mechanic to install. Thank you.


Hi @MrsJohnE5. There was no other reason I chose the curt over the draw-tite other than the square versus round tube. I know it sounds silly to most but I just liked the square tube look better. I think the fit is pretty much the same between the two. Mine required the same spacer as the one @Seth S install did:

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You can use the factory holes in the frame for the front of the hitch but I had to cut new holes in the rear of the hitch. There are a total of 6 bolts that hold my hitch on. 4 on the frame and two on the bumper as you can see in the above photos. The holes on the curt didn't line up with the factory holes on the truck so I also had to ream the holes in the hitch itself out a bit to get the bolts in. So if you are worried about drilling and don't care about the square/round tube thing I would say go with the draw-tite between the two. That steel is strong on these trucks and not easy to cut through with the junk drill bits you can get from the big box stores. The BTB one I also looked at and it most likely would fit the best out of all of them. I just couldn't do the price at the time. $350 is not in the cards for me for what I needed this for. HTH.
 
Hi @MrsJohnE5. There was no other reason I chose the curt over the draw-tite other than the square versus round tube. I know it sounds silly to most but I just liked the square tube look better. I think the fit is pretty much the same between the two. Mine required the same spacer as the one @Seth S install did:

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You can use the factory holes in the frame for the front of the hitch but I had to cut new holes in the rear of the hitch. There are a total of 6 bolts that hold my hitch on. 4 on the frame and two on the bumper as you can see in the above photos. The holes on the curt didn't line up with the factory holes on the truck so I also had to ream the holes in the hitch itself out a bit to get the bolts in. So if you are worried about drilling and don't care about the square/round tube thing I would say go with the draw-tite between the two. That steel is strong on these trucks and not easy to cut through with the junk drill bits you can get from the big box stores. The BTB one I also looked at and it most likely would fit the best out of all of them. I just couldn't do the price at the time. $350 is not in the cards for me for what I needed this for. HTH.

Hi @Robert Franzke thank you for your response to my questions and thank you for all the responses I read of yours from several different threads about installing hitch receivers. The pictures and detailed responses are so helpful.
 
I looked at the BTB unit and I’m sure it fits the easiest but I wasn’t thrilled by the price. The unit I went with was detailed in another mud thread and I think it’s originally intended for a Yukon...but 2 of the 6 holes in the frame line up and you have to drill 4.
 

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